Small hole at end of graphite shaft?

[rorykoepka]

I got an hosel adapter on a shaft pulled off at roger dunn and noticed the end of the shaft has a tiny hole and wasn’t sure if that’s what it should look like. I’ve never actually seen the end of a graphite shaft so I was wondering is this what it should look like? I want to sell this shaft since I bought the club purely for the head but wanted to make sure it was in the condition fit to sell. Thanks guys

[Jace_bkr]

that is the old epoxy. Just needs to be cleaned out.

[Seattlegolfnut]

…and if you aren’t comfortable heating the tip and cleaning it out, I’d suggest just trying to sell the shaft as-is and disclose that it needs to be cleaned out by buyer. Don’t risk damaging it.

[Howard_Jones]

2 hours ago, rorykoepka said:

I got an hosel adapter on a shaft pulled off at roger dunn and noticed the end of the shaft has a tiny hole and wasn’t sure if that’s what it should look like. I’ve never actually seen the end of a graphite shaft so I was wondering is this what it should look like? I want to sell this shaft since I bought the club purely for the head but wanted to make sure it was in the condition fit to sell. Thanks guys

You already got to know that this is epoxy, but as long as air can go trough it (try to blow), then its a NO issue, just leave it. If air cant get trough, we want be able to reuse the shaft before we have removed it. (it will trap a air bubble in the hosel/connector when we insert it, and that air will heat up by the chemical reaction when the epoxy cures, so the air expand in volume and push the shaft out.)

We "should" clean this out directly after the shaft is pulled and the epoxy is still hot and easy to work with. In the condition its now, the only safe way to remove it, is by using a drill-chuck combined with a 1/8" drill bit. We put the drill chuck on the shaft, like that shaft was a drill bit, and drill strait trough the drill chuck who has a 1/8" whole for the drill bit. The drill chuck works as a centering tool and "guide" for the drill bit.

So, check if there is a opening trough it, so the air we trap can evacuate up the shaft when installed, thats all that really matters here.

The way to prevent this "epoxy plug", is to apply epoxy during install like this:
-Start by adding a drop of epoxy on the shaft tip, and rotate the ferrule over it. This will prevent the ferrule from "climbing on the shaft" in play.
- Only apply epoxy to the upper 1/3 of the hosel/Adapter
- Add epoxy to the shaft tip as "stripes" in the length direction.
- Hold the head/adapter upside down, and insert the shaft UP in the hosel/adapter while you rotate it all the way in.

Use this method no matter club from driver to wedge. For irons and wedges, this method most often prevent epoxy from filling the went hole in tip weights, and that means they can often be reused without issues or needs for mods be fore we reuse them (like a slit in the side).

Its simply applied too much epoxy and the wrong way when the shaft tip gets "plugged" like this, so when we mix epoxy, we should use a piece of paper on a digital gram scale, and mix a total of 0.5 grams only pr club. Expect 0.15 grams of this to be lost as wipe off and on the paper, so the actual use of epoxy is only needed to be about 0.35 grams for 1.25" insert.

Edited September 19, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[denkea]

On 9/19/2021 at 1:57 AM, Seattlegolfnut said:

heating the tip

Uh. No.  Never.  

[Bad9]

It also looks like it may be a lead tip pin that can easily and carefully drilled out. 

[markheardjr]

Some OEMs put a little tip cap on the shaft that has a tiny hole. That little raised edge could indicate some sort of tip cap or tip weight or something. Or it could just be more epoxy if the head itself had a port inside the hosel.  Either way, simple easy to drill out a little bit. As Howard said, if you can blow through the end of the grip and air passes, its technically ready to go.

[rorykoepka]

I’m not 100% sure what it was (most likely just epoxy) but they ended up getting it out so it looks all good again

[Seattlegolfnut]

4 hours ago, denkea said:

Uh. No.  Never.  

Sure.
 

I do it all the time for 2nd hand shaft pulls I’ve purchased with gunk left in there. Follow good practices. Indirect heat application is best. But it’s not a problem to warm it up a little and assist with the drill out. 
 

My caveat was if not comfortable, don’t do it. I’ll try to be more clear next time that I didn’t intend to imply heating the tip = torching the shaft.

Edited September 21, 2021 by Seattlegolfnut

[denkea]

17 hours ago, Seattlegolfnut said:

Indirect heat application is best

Please explain how to apply heat to a shaft tip 'indirectly'.  

 

I have no idea why you would want to heat the shaft.  Just use an appropriate size, sharp, drill bit.  No need to heat the tip.  

[Seattlegolfnut]

5 hours ago, denkea said:

Please explain how to apply heat to a shaft tip 'indirectly'.  

 

I have no idea why you would want to heat the shaft.  Just use an appropriate size, sharp, drill bit.  No need to heat the tip.  

Sure happy to help.

 

By "indirect" I was implying the process we use to initially remove: where we apply a little heat to the shaft via the hosel or adapter. Contrasted with "direct" where the heat would go right to the shaft without an intermediary between the heat source and the composite.

 

No argument from me that good drill bit and good drilling technique can get there. Heat is not needed; just have found it helpful versus drilling a cold plug. I don't see any issue as it's simply returning to a state when the head/adapter was pulled off and it's really easy to extract that plug. So if I've got stubborn old epoxy up there, I just slide on an old adapter from my stash and give it a couple seconds of heat.

 

Hope that helps clarify what I was implying! Thanks for asking.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2021 by Seattlegolfnut

[denkea]

18 hours ago, Seattlegolfnut said:

Sure happy to help.

 

By "indirect" I was implying the process we use to initially remove: where we apply a little heat to the shaft via the hosel or adapter. Contrasted with "direct" where the heat would go right to the shaft without an intermediary between the heat source and the composite.

 

No argument from me that good drill bit and good drilling technique can get there. Heat is not needed; just have found it helpful versus drilling a cold plug. I don't see any issue as it's simply returning to a state when the head/adapter was pulled off and it's really easy to extract that plug. So if I've got stubborn old epoxy up there, I just slide on an old adapter from my stash and give it a couple seconds of heat.

 

Hope that helps clarify what I was implying! Thanks for asking.

 

 

 

 

No help needed.  I still don't know how you would apply "Indirect" heat to the shaft tip to soften the epoxy.  The OP has a bare shaft with no tip.  How would you indirectly heat the tip of the shaft?  

If you apply direct heat to a shaft you are doing it wrong.  Simply put. 

And if you mean you put the adapter back on the shaft tip and heat the adapter that is just way too much work and not needed.  Just drill the plug out as soon as you pull the shaft.  Or any time later after you pull the shaft.  

Edited September 23, 2021 by denkea

[Seattlegolfnut]

3 hours ago, denkea said:

No help needed.  I still don't know how you would apply "Indirect" heat to the shaft tip to soften the epoxy.  The OP has a bare shaft with no tip.  How would you indirectly heat the tip of the shaft?  

If you apply direct heat to a shaft you are doing it wrong.  Simply put. 

And if you mean you put the adapter back on the shaft tip and heat the adapter that is just way too much work and not needed.  Just drill the plug out as soon as you pull the shaft.  Or any time later after you pull the shaft.  

Good morning! Thanks for the question.

Yes, I just slip on an old adapter from my stash and apply a little heat. Takes a couple seconds, not really that much extra work. Was just a tip I got years ago to help with an old pull that was never cleaned at the time it was pulled.
 

Totally agree never torch a shaft directly. I assumed that was a basic and obvious fact. Your feedback here has helped me realize I can do a better job not making those assumptions so folks don’t get the wrong idea. Thank you!