Jump to content

Graphite Shaft removal


lefthack
 Share

Recommended Posts

I don't have the fancy setup, so I was taking my clubs to the pro shop at a local country club. He charged me $3 a club, would usually have it done either same day or next. Seems he was the only one who could do it and he's left. I've called a couple different places and got from $15 to $20 a club. It's not something I need often so I haven't justified the $100+ for a puller. If I'm supposed to pay $15-$20 a club, I guess I'm buying a tool. 🤣 

 

So what setups have you used that aren't too cray expensive? Is the Golf Works budget setup good enough? Thanks for the feedback.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/

Edited by lefthack

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, lvgolfer962 said:

It should do the Job

Ive personally never used that one. I think you would be better off/happier getting the next model up (179.00). 

 

I'd even go a step further for beginners at pulling graphite.

 

The spring loading can help keep the shaft from being overheated since it's much more obvious when the epoxy finally releases.  And keep one from applying too much force before the epoxy lets go.  Two ways that graphite shafts can still be easily damaged in a puller.  Pulling too hard, too soon relative to the "right" amount of applied heat - or pulling too late.

 

If one isn't in a hurry, they frequently have e-mail special notifications where this one is at about the same price as the one w/o the spring (~$50 off).   Or at least they used to.  Not sure I've been keeping up with any changes.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback. At $200+ I have a tough time justifying it when I can get another set of shafts for $125 and might not use it that much afterwards. 

 

I mean, I am slated to get one more set of irons, but I might not need to pull any shafts. At least not $200 worth anyway. 

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

15 minutes ago, lefthack said:

Thanks for the feedback. At $200+ I have a tough time justifying it when I can get another set of shafts for $125 and might not use it that much afterwards. 

 

I mean, I am slated to get one more set of irons, but I might not need to pull any shafts. At least not $200 worth anyway. 

 

Depends on what shafts you work with and how quickly you learn to properly apply the heat and pressure.    For some it will be much less expensive to use the cheaper puller - and they will work - they just are not quite as convenient to use.   But all it takes is to make a mistake and ruin one modern premium driver shaft (or a couple premium iron shafts) - and it no longer will be the less expensive route 🙂

 

Don't get me wrong - I understand the thought process and did the same thing for my first puller (although it was the golfsmith economy puller, not the golfworks one).   But it didn't take me long to change my mind about investing a bit more money in a better one.  But I also knew I'd be using it on a more regular basis than maybe you think you'll be using it.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I was just thinking of pulling the shafts that are in my blades to put in the Takomo 101's. I've only needed about 8 shafts pulled so far, so it's tough to judge just how often I MIGHT need it later.

 

You can see how $3 a pop was pretty painless. 

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Just a friendly warning.  For some, pulling, building, and tinkering with the clubs can become addictive. 😆

 

 

Yes, well... Not sure all this club swapping has done me much favors, but it really is fun. That's why I decided the Haywood MB's "might" be my last set of irons until at least '23. That gives me 3 sets of irons for each category (Blade, SC, GI) to play with.

 

I have stuck to the same shaft so far because it seems to work well and is affordable. If I feel my swing and game are in a good place by next summer, I might finally get a fitting. If I can find a fitter with more than 2 lefties to try. 🤣

  • Like 1

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While I've technically been golfing for over 30 years, I hadn't played more than maybe 1 round a year since college ('90) until last summer.

 

I admit I went a little overboard redoing my bag, but I will say I'm pretty happy with it right now.

 

Well, the bag is pretty heavy and my pull cart is garbage (was pretty much power cart only until recently), so I might get a better bag and cart this Christmas.

  • Like 2

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, lefthack said:

I don't have the fancy setup, so I was taking my clubs to the pro shop at a local country club. He charged me $3 a club, would usually have it done either same day or next. Seems he was the only one who could do it and he's left. I've called a couple different places and got from $15 to $20 a club. It's not something I need often so I haven't justified the $100+ for a puller. If I'm supposed to pay $15-$20 a club, I guess I'm buying a tool. 🤣 

 

So what setups have you used that aren't too cray expensive? Is the Golf Works budget setup good enough? Thanks for the feedback.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/

 

This one works just fine. I bought one years ago and it's been invaluable; paid for itself 10x over.

 

Only issue with it is that the head piece with the three shaft sizes is made to spin freely but after applying heat and torquing the long screw it sometimes binds up and the captured nut on the end tightens down. Have to remove it from the vise and loosen it with a 3/4" wrench - takes 3 seconds - and it works again.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Epic Speed + ZF 6TSi2 17.25 + AD HD 7 / TSi2 20.25 + AD MJ 8 / TW-X 4 + TR20P + Modus3 105 / MD5 Raw / Toulon JDM Austin 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, third-times-a-charm said:

 

This one works just fine. I bought one years ago and it's been invaluable; paid for itself 10x over.

 

Only issue with it is that the head piece with the three shaft sizes is made to spin freely but after applying heat and torquing the long screw it sometimes binds up and the captured nut on the end tightens down. Have to remove it from the vise and loosen it with a 3/4" wrench - takes 3 seconds - and it works again.

 

I have the same puller and can verify same issues....but it will work fine for your use.  Been using many years.

  • Thanks 1

CALLAWAY Customs (Black w/Silver) "The FREAK" Mavrik Sub Zero Driver, 9* (10*), Accra TZ6/M5 72g X

CALLAWAY Apex UW 17* LAGolf Tour Issue Prototype Trono 75x

PXG GEN4 0311ST, Xtreme Dark, 4 - 9, CT Lite/Std LE Black X, PW, GW, PX 6.5 Blackout

PXG GEN4 0311T, Xtreme Dark, 4 - 9, CT Lite/Std LE Black X, PW, GW, PX 6.5 Blackout

PXG GEN4 0311XP/GEN0311P, Xtreme Dark, 5 - 9, CT Lite/Std LE Black X, PW, GW, PX 6.5 Blackout 

PXG 0311 Sugar Daddy Milled Wedges, Xtreme Dark, 56*/10, 60*/7, PX 6.5 Blackout //  CALLAWAY JAWS MD5 Custom Wedges, 54*(55*)/10S, 60*/08C; PX LS 6.5....TOULON GARAGE Austin Custom Rose Gold // SCOTTY CAMERON Santa Fe T3 Custom Antique Copper  .... STEWART GOLF Q Follow Electric Cart..Carbon // SKYCADDIE SX550// Cobalt Q6 Slope

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw one used sell for MSRP on eBay a few weeks back, so I might get the cheapest one and if I destroy a shaft, at least I know I can resell it. 🤣

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So this is the one I got. 

 

https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/ucmvgsr/

 

Not the "value" setup, but not the cool spring loaded one, either. Thanks again, everyone. Hope for the best.

  • Like 1

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

For iron shafts, I'm pretty set in my ways as well.   Although as age keeps slowing down the swing, that may change.    I transitioned from shaft ho'ing to really focusing on mechanics instead about 5 years ago - maybe a bit more.

 

Aw come on Stuart.  Don't tell me you're not searching for the holy grail of equipment like the rest of us. 😉

 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/14/2021 at 2:44 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

I'd even go a step further for beginners at pulling graphite.

 

The spring loading can help keep the shaft from being overheated since it's much more obvious when the epoxy finally releases.  And keep one from applying too much force before the epoxy lets go.  Two ways that graphite shafts can still be easily damaged in a puller.  Pulling too hard, too soon relative to the "right" amount of applied heat - or pulling too late.

 

If one isn't in a hurry, they frequently have e-mail special notifications where this one is at about the same price as the one w/o the spring (~$50 off).   Or at least they used to.  Not sure I've been keeping up with any changes.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/

 

+1 on this puller 👍

 

On 10/14/2021 at 5:08 AM, lefthack said:

Thanks for the feedback. At $200+ I have a tough time justifying it when I can get another set of shafts for $125 and might not use it that much afterwards. 

 

I mean, I am slated to get one more set of irons, but I might not need to pull any shafts. At least not $200 worth anyway. 

 

I had the same mind set as you when I bought my tension graphite puller about 6 years ago. I thought I would use occasionally but I still spent the $150 (the price back then) because I DID NOT TRUST anyone else to do the job. I've had 2 expensive shafts ruined by so called pro-shops, professional that charge the $10 fee back then... no one works on my clubs anymore.

 

..but,  you know what, I used it more than I thought. Now that I am playing with all graphite irons, got more graphite driver shafts than ever especially with the All-Fit universals and even helped my friends & families who busted their wood shafts. To me, its a good investment, just like a good driver shaft.

  • Like 1

Taylormade Sim 2, Fujikura Ventus Velocore Black 6-S tipped 1", Top Golf All-Fit Universal adapter

Callaway Epic Max LS, Hzrdus Smoke Black RDX 60 stiff, Top Golf All-Fit Universal adapter
Fairways: Honma 737 13* 3 wood, Vizard A 50S shaft, Honma 737 18* 5 wood
Hybrid:   Cobra Speedzone 3 hybrid 18*

Irons:       Mizuno JPX 921 Hot Metal Pro 4-PW with KBS TGI 95/100 shafts
Wedges: Cleveland CBX2 48* KBS TGI 100 shaft. Cleveland Full Face 56* with Catalyst 100 shaft.
Putter:     LAB Golf Mezz.1 ACCRA shaft

                Directed Force Reno "2.05 Presse IV tweaked" Putter with BGT Stability shaft
#1 Callaway Chromesoft X LS, #2 Srixon XV 5/6

Single Plane swing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally came today and works like a champ. It took a little bit to figure out, but I did all 5 shafts without issue or damage. It has already paid for itself, so yay! 

 

Thanks for the feedback, glad I got it.

  • Like 1

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, jobin said:

Why don't you guys who need to use, or test, a puller 'rent' one from a GolfWRXer?  Sure, gotta pay shipping and plz, no stealing (we are all honest here, right), but seems most guys who have one won't be using the puller on a weekly basis.

I don't need one but encourage frugality in these trying times. 

 

For me it's a justification. I have many automotive specialty tools that I have justified over the years. This one wasn't a consideration when I could have the dude at Rock Creek do it quick and cheap. 

 

I bought a ghetto one off eBay that damaged a shaft, so I was hesitant to drop $100 to do it again. 

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

OMG this little bastxxx is money. It's kind of tricky to get it in the vise just right so I can still turn the club to heat. But a solid once around with the torch, snug up the vice, and pop the club head clean off. 

 

I have done a full iron set and a hybrid with zero issues. Has already paid for itself and was totally worth it.

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a pic of my puller which I built using parts from Home Depot. Yes, that is a Golfworks Quick Shaft Clamp ($79). When pulling iron heads, I remove the ferrule so the U-bolt will fit flush against the top of the hosel and apply precise heat using a butane micro-torch.

 

BT

 

1656618177_Springpuller1.jpg.37604f5f0f2ff32981bd35a7cb9eb78a.jpg

  • Like 1

 

Cobra LTD Pro 10.5° HZRDUS Blk 75 6.0 @ 44.5"
Cobra LTD Black 14.5° Aldila RIP Beta 80 S @ 43"
Cobra F6 16.5° Aldila RIP Beta 80 S @ 41.5"
Mizuno MP25 4-PW Mamiya Recoil Proto 125 F4
Mizuno MP-T5 52, 56 & 60 - TT Wedge
Grips - Grip Master Master Perforated Midsize

Oddysey Stroke Lab V-Line Blk 33.5"
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just pull irons by hand and haven't had any issues. I bought this wonky one off eBay trying to save a few bucks.  

 

 

Screenshot_20211115-100636.png

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, lefthack said:

I just pull irons by hand and haven't had any issues. I bought this wonky one off eBay trying to save a few bucks.  

 

 

Screenshot_20211115-100636.png

Steel are easy as no issues with overheating or twisting which toast graphite. Like many I'm glad a bought a JB's puller while he was still making them, my local clubmaker uses that as his goto as well above far more expensive models

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Pleasedwith3putts said:

Steel are easy as no issues with overheating or twisting which toast graphite. Like many I'm glad a bought a JB's puller while he was still making them, my local clubmaker uses that as his goto as well above far more expensive models

 

Yeah, the eBay one didn't work for me and while it wasn't easy for my cheap Word not allowed to spend a buck on a golf tool, I'm really glad I did. 

 

I still ended up buying a full 3rd set of shafts, but I hope I won't need to buy any more. 

Taylormade M6 D Type driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 and 5 wood 

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Haywood 52/10 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...