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Graphite Shaft removal


lefthack
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I don't have the fancy setup, so I was taking my clubs to the pro shop at a local country club. He charged me $3 a club, would usually have it done either same day or next. Seems he was the only one who could do it and he's left. I've called a couple different places and got from $15 to $20 a club. It's not something I need often so I haven't justified the $100+ for a puller. If I'm supposed to pay $15-$20 a club, I guess I'm buying a tool. 🤣 

 

So what setups have you used that aren't too cray expensive? Is the Golf Works budget setup good enough? Thanks for the feedback.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/

Edited by lefthack

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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5 hours ago, lvgolfer962 said:

It should do the Job

Ive personally never used that one. I think you would be better off/happier getting the next model up (179.00). 

 

I'd even go a step further for beginners at pulling graphite.

 

The spring loading can help keep the shaft from being overheated since it's much more obvious when the epoxy finally releases.  And keep one from applying too much force before the epoxy lets go.  Two ways that graphite shafts can still be easily damaged in a puller.  Pulling too hard, too soon relative to the "right" amount of applied heat - or pulling too late.

 

If one isn't in a hurry, they frequently have e-mail special notifications where this one is at about the same price as the one w/o the spring (~$50 off).   Or at least they used to.  Not sure I've been keeping up with any changes.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/

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Thanks for the feedback. At $200+ I have a tough time justifying it when I can get another set of shafts for $125 and might not use it that much afterwards. 

 

I mean, I am slated to get one more set of irons, but I might not need to pull any shafts. At least not $200 worth anyway. 

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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15 minutes ago, lefthack said:

Thanks for the feedback. At $200+ I have a tough time justifying it when I can get another set of shafts for $125 and might not use it that much afterwards. 

 

I mean, I am slated to get one more set of irons, but I might not need to pull any shafts. At least not $200 worth anyway. 

 

Depends on what shafts you work with and how quickly you learn to properly apply the heat and pressure.    For some it will be much less expensive to use the cheaper puller - and they will work - they just are not quite as convenient to use.   But all it takes is to make a mistake and ruin one modern premium driver shaft (or a couple premium iron shafts) - and it no longer will be the less expensive route 🙂

 

Don't get me wrong - I understand the thought process and did the same thing for my first puller (although it was the golfsmith economy puller, not the golfworks one).   But it didn't take me long to change my mind about investing a bit more money in a better one.  But I also knew I'd be using it on a more regular basis than maybe you think you'll be using it.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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Yeah, I was just thinking of pulling the shafts that are in my blades to put in the Takomo 101's. I've only needed about 8 shafts pulled so far, so it's tough to judge just how often I MIGHT need it later.

 

You can see how $3 a pop was pretty painless. 

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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7 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Just a friendly warning.  For some, pulling, building, and tinkering with the clubs can become addictive. 😆

 

 

Yes, well... Not sure all this club swapping has done me much favors, but it really is fun. That's why I decided the Haywood MB's "might" be my last set of irons until at least '23. That gives me 3 sets of irons for each category (Blade, SC, GI) to play with.

 

I have stuck to the same shaft so far because it seems to work well and is affordable. If I feel my swing and game are in a good place by next summer, I might finally get a fitting. If I can find a fitter with more than 2 lefties to try. 🤣

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Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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While I've technically been golfing for over 30 years, I hadn't played more than maybe 1 round a year since college ('90) until last summer.

 

I admit I went a little overboard redoing my bag, but I will say I'm pretty happy with it right now.

 

Well, the bag is pretty heavy and my pull cart is garbage (was pretty much power cart only until recently), so I might get a better bag and cart this Christmas.

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Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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11 hours ago, lefthack said:

I don't have the fancy setup, so I was taking my clubs to the pro shop at a local country club. He charged me $3 a club, would usually have it done either same day or next. Seems he was the only one who could do it and he's left. I've called a couple different places and got from $15 to $20 a club. It's not something I need often so I haven't justified the $100+ for a puller. If I'm supposed to pay $15-$20 a club, I guess I'm buying a tool. 🤣 

 

So what setups have you used that aren't too cray expensive? Is the Golf Works budget setup good enough? Thanks for the feedback.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/

 

This one works just fine. I bought one years ago and it's been invaluable; paid for itself 10x over.

 

Only issue with it is that the head piece with the three shaft sizes is made to spin freely but after applying heat and torquing the long screw it sometimes binds up and the captured nut on the end tightens down. Have to remove it from the vise and loosen it with a 3/4" wrench - takes 3 seconds - and it works again.

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Epic Speed + ZF 6 / TSi2 17.25 + AD HD 7 / TSi2 20.25 + AD MJ 8 / Apex 21 4 + RIP 100  / Apex 19 Pro + Modus3 120 / MD5 / Toulon JDM Austin 

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10 minutes ago, third-times-a-charm said:

 

This one works just fine. I bought one years ago and it's been invaluable; paid for itself 10x over.

 

Only issue with it is that the head piece with the three shaft sizes is made to spin freely but after applying heat and torquing the long screw it sometimes binds up and the captured nut on the end tightens down. Have to remove it from the vise and loosen it with a 3/4" wrench - takes 3 seconds - and it works again.

 

I have the same puller and can verify same issues....but it will work fine for your use.  Been using many years.

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CALLAWAY Customs (Black w/Silver) "The FREAK" Mavrik Sub Zero Driver, 9* (10*), Accra TZ6/M5 72g X

CALLAWAY Apex UW 17*, LAGolf Tour Issue Prototype Trono 75x; 19*, 21* Ventus Velocore Red, 8X/9X

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I saw one used sell for MSRP on eBay a few weeks back, so I might get the cheapest one and if I destroy a shaft, at least I know I can resell it. 🤣

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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So this is the one I got. 

 

https://www.golfworks.com/clubmakers-vise-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/ucmvgsr/

 

Not the "value" setup, but not the cool spring loaded one, either. Thanks again, everyone. Hope for the best.

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Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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23 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

For iron shafts, I'm pretty set in my ways as well.   Although as age keeps slowing down the swing, that may change.    I transitioned from shaft ho'ing to really focusing on mechanics instead about 5 years ago - maybe a bit more.

 

Aw come on Stuart.  Don't tell me you're not searching for the holy grail of equipment like the rest of us. 😉

 

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On 10/14/2021 at 2:44 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

I'd even go a step further for beginners at pulling graphite.

 

The spring loading can help keep the shaft from being overheated since it's much more obvious when the epoxy finally releases.  And keep one from applying too much force before the epoxy lets go.  Two ways that graphite shafts can still be easily damaged in a puller.  Pulling too hard, too soon relative to the "right" amount of applied heat - or pulling too late.

 

If one isn't in a hurry, they frequently have e-mail special notifications where this one is at about the same price as the one w/o the spring (~$50 off).   Or at least they used to.  Not sure I've been keeping up with any changes.

 

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/

 

+1 on this puller 👍

 

On 10/14/2021 at 5:08 AM, lefthack said:

Thanks for the feedback. At $200+ I have a tough time justifying it when I can get another set of shafts for $125 and might not use it that much afterwards. 

 

I mean, I am slated to get one more set of irons, but I might not need to pull any shafts. At least not $200 worth anyway. 

 

I had the same mind set as you when I bought my tension graphite puller about 6 years ago. I thought I would use occasionally but I still spent the $150 (the price back then) because I DID NOT TRUST anyone else to do the job. I've had 2 expensive shafts ruined by so called pro-shops, professional that charge the $10 fee back then... no one works on my clubs anymore.

 

..but,  you know what, I used it more than I thought. Now that I am playing with all graphite irons, got more graphite driver shafts than ever especially with the All-Fit universals and even helped my friends & families who busted their wood shafts. To me, its a good investment, just like a good driver shaft.

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Callaway Epic Max LS, Hzrdus Smoke Black RDX 60 stiff, Top Golf All-Fit Universal adapter
Fairways: Honma 737 13* 3 wood, Vizard A 50S shaft, Taylormade M4 HL 16.5* 4 wood, Vizard Z 60S shaft
Hybrid:   Cobra Speedzone 3 hybrid

Irons:      Taylormade P790 DGold 105 S300 4-PW

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally came today and works like a champ. It took a little bit to figure out, but I did all 5 shafts without issue or damage. It has already paid for itself, so yay! 

 

Thanks for the feedback, glad I got it.

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Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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3 hours ago, jobin said:

Why don't you guys who need to use, or test, a puller 'rent' one from a GolfWRXer?  Sure, gotta pay shipping and plz, no stealing (we are all honest here, right), but seems most guys who have one won't be using the puller on a weekly basis.

I don't need one but encourage frugality in these trying times. 

 

For me it's a justification. I have many automotive specialty tools that I have justified over the years. This one wasn't a consideration when I could have the dude at Rock Creek do it quick and cheap. 

 

I bought a ghetto one off eBay that damaged a shaft, so I was hesitant to drop $100 to do it again. 

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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  • 3 weeks later...

OMG this little bastxxx is money. It's kind of tricky to get it in the vise just right so I can still turn the club to heat. But a solid once around with the torch, snug up the vice, and pop the club head clean off. 

 

I have done a full iron set and a hybrid with zero issues. Has already paid for itself and was totally worth it.

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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This is a pic of my puller which I built using parts from Home Depot. Yes, that is a Golfworks Quick Shaft Clamp ($79). When pulling iron heads, I remove the ferrule so the U-bolt will fit flush against the top of the hosel and apply precise heat using a butane micro-torch.

 

BT

 

1656618177_Springpuller1.jpg.37604f5f0f2ff32981bd35a7cb9eb78a.jpg

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I just pull irons by hand and haven't had any issues. I bought this wonky one off eBay trying to save a few bucks.  

 

 

Screenshot_20211115-100636.png

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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16 minutes ago, lefthack said:

I just pull irons by hand and haven't had any issues. I bought this wonky one off eBay trying to save a few bucks.  

 

 

Screenshot_20211115-100636.png

Steel are easy as no issues with overheating or twisting which toast graphite. Like many I'm glad a bought a JB's puller while he was still making them, my local clubmaker uses that as his goto as well above far more expensive models

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1 minute ago, Pleasedwith3putts said:

Steel are easy as no issues with overheating or twisting which toast graphite. Like many I'm glad a bought a JB's puller while he was still making them, my local clubmaker uses that as his goto as well above far more expensive models

 

Yeah, the eBay one didn't work for me and while it wasn't easy for my cheap Word not allowed to spend a buck on a golf tool, I'm really glad I did. 

 

I still ended up buying a full 3rd set of shafts, but I hope I won't need to buy any more. 

Taylormade M3 driver Mitsubishi Kuro Kage TiNi 70G shaft (cut to 44.5")

Honma XP-1 3 wood 

Taylormade M1 5 wood

Taylormade GAPR Lo 19* Hybrid 

Byrdie Golf Designs split cavity 4-PW

Mitsubishi Kuro Kage 80g iron shafts

Lazrus 52/8 and 56/12 wedges

Nike Blue Chip 002 putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips

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