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Experimenting with 43.75" shaft and midsize grip: how much lead tape?


RoyalMustang
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OK, so say I have the heavy duty lead tape (1g per inch).  

 

My club is an ST200 driver from Mizuno (lets assume set up to D2 SW stock)

 

Shaft is a CK Pro Orange 70S (72g) but slightly counterbalanced.

 

Grip is a midsize.    

 

I want to try it at 43.75", so 1.5" short from stock.  

 

Mostly due to the grip (I think), the club is currently at D0.  

 

1) is the midsize grip part of the swingweight calculation, or do I add that back and assume it is really D2?  

2) I want to swing it at 43.75", so I need to assume a loss of 6 SW points, right?  Therefore, I need 6 strips of 2" lead tape?  Plus (if any) to compensate for the grip?

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Most people say to SW the club with a standard 55gr grip and then add your larger grip - so dont take it into account. Up to you if you want to or not.

 

There is a guesstimate of 2g per SW point and etc but there is no guarantee that will work and just given you example of using a very high balance point shaft like the CK Pro Orange and a midsize grip that goes out the window.

 

I would recommend getting a SW scale - or at least doing the poor man's version with the razorblade balance/measure and SW calculator online.

Epic Speed + ZF 6 / TSi2 17.25 + AD HD 7 / TSi2 20.25 + AD MJ 8 / Apex 21 4 + RIP 100  / Apex 19 Pro + Modus3 120 / MD5 / Toulon JDM Austin 

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I believe that 1.5 inches short is closer to 7-8 SW point loss, and with your heavy duty tape, I think it's closer to 1.7 inches of tape per SW point for a driver.  You can sort of ignore swingweight point swings due to grip but the total weight does make a difference.  So let's say your grip is 10 grams heavier, causing a 2 SW point drop, and then you add weight to the head to get SW back.  Yes, your swingweight may get back to the same D2 that you'd see with a standard grip, but your total weight is now 14 grams heavier, which will feel a little different.

 

If I were you, I would just keep adding 3 inches or so of lead tape at a time until it feels right.  Don't think that you have to get to a certain SW reading.

Cobra King F9 Dr- Miyazaki Kuala Mizu 7x (74g) - 43.25 in.
TM Jetspeed Hybrid 19* - Matrix Studio 94 (96g) or Srixon Z F85 5 wood - Hzrdus Red

TM Jetspeed Hybrid 22* - Matrix Ozik HD Program 95 (99g) or Mizuno MP 59 3 Iron - KBS Tour Stiff
Cleveland 588 CB 4-PW - DG S300
Cleveland RTX 50*
Cleveland RTX-3 54*
Cleveland RTX-3 58*
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27 minutes ago, RoyalMustang said:

1) is the midsize grip part of the swingweight calculation, or do I add that back and assume it is really D2?  

 

Neither.    Changing grip weight means that the resulting swing weight value (no matter which way you approach it) is meaningless when comparing that value to a swing weight value from a club with a different grip weight.   What's actually needed can vary for different individuals.  Some can ignore the change, some can not (and those that can't still can't rely on the SW scale to help them).

 

Same concept applied to large playing length changes.  You're working outside the scope of what the swing weight scale was designed to do.  It's not a good tool for these types of changes.

 

Short answer:  is that if you have some target value from a previous club you want to match - forget it. Throw out that old swing weight value.  Finding the right head weight in this type of situation needs to be a process, not a calculation.

 

And you don't need a fitter, you can do it yourself.  Go to the range and bring the roll of lead tape.   Add it incrementally (~2 gm at a time) until you get the best feel and ball flight results.   It's not difficult - but it does take some time.  There are no shortcuts if you want a good fitting club.   Foot powder spray is also helpful to check face impact location and consistency as you go.

 

 

27 minutes ago, RoyalMustang said:

2) I want to swing it at 43.75", so I need to assume a loss of 6 SW points, right?  Therefore, I need 6 strips of 2" lead tape?  Plus (if any) to compensate for the grip?

 

Nope.  See above.

Edited by Stuart_G
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Thanks everyone!  That gives me a good starting point; I will play around with it until I get "the feel" dialed.  I need to be able to feel the club loading at the top: it is key for my syncing. 

 

The reason I am doing this is that I have a ton of success with my 4-wood off the tee in terms of distance, and I hit a Mini 300 driver at 43.75", also with a lot of success last weekend.  On the monitor recently, my 4W is only 7mph ball speed lower than my driver, which leads me to think that a shorter driver that I can accurately load and sync will give me the clubhead speed I need due to better mechanics, and with more accuracy (due to better mechanics). I just feel more fluid with a shorter club, and if I am loading and engaging properly, allowing my hips to clear another few degrees by impact due to better timing, it more than offsets any loss of clubhead speed due to the shorter shaft.  

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You could also try a lighter grip. I'm a big fan of the Winn DrI-Tac Lite. The midsize one is only 23 grams.

 

I play shorter and light (Nippon  950 in my irons) shafts but also like a D3 sw. Recently went through my entire set and pulled all the tip weights and lead tape and adjusted my swing weights using these grips a little bit of weight in the butt end (tour lock plugs).

 

My thinking was that tip weights and lead tape on the head would actually change the COG of the clubhead. By using a super light grip and adding butt weight as necessary, I could get my desired SW. 

Driver - Titleist TSi2 9* Tensei Blue Stiff

3W - Titleist TSi2 15* Tensei Blue Stiff

Hybrid - Titleist TS2 19*H Tensei Blue Stiff

4i - Titleist U-500 Tensei Blue Stiff

Irons - 5-PW Callaway Apex Pro '21 NS Pro 950 Neo Stiff

GW - Callaway MD5 Jaws 50* NS Pro 950 Neo Stiff

SW - Ping Glide 3.0 54*/12* bent to 55*/13* stock shaft S Grind

LW - Ping Glide 3.0 60*/8* stock shaft Eye 2 Grind

Putter - Toulon Columbus w/ LAGP 135 shaft

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