What Driver for an "in to out" path but open Clubface. Mavrik Max, Radspeed XD, TM D-Type

[Valtiel]

11 minutes ago, SvenS3 said:

I was able to test my TSI3 again in different Hosel Settings. It doesn't get better. Face is always open.

 

All other Clubs are no problem. My TS2 3 Wood is either no Problem to draw.

 

Yesterday I had the chance to hit the Taylormade Sim2 D Type (12 degrees and regular Shaft). That was the only combo I could find at our club.

 

To make it short: Every ball starts to the left and some draw even further. I played it in the upright Lie Hosel setting or between Upright and Higher.

 

In the normal setting it goes right, not so much as the TSI3 but can't turn it over.

 

But I wasn't able to find a good setting in the short time. Just wanted you to know, that the Head makes a difference for me.

So I have to test other Heads.

 

The Point with the Radspeed is similar to the TSI3 is a good one.

 

G410 SFT turned down to 8,5 was the setting I tested in my former SFT, it doesn't work out great. Many balls lost to the right.

Thanks for the update. I would definitely consider the psychological aspect as well in terms of what looks good to you down by the ball. I know I can't stand looking down at certain head shapes and paint lines etc etc, and I will hit worse shots because of it. The TSi3 is actually one of those drivers that looks REALLY good to me down by the ball so i'm looking forward to tweaking mine, but it is definitely not a driver that sits as neutral/closed as some. Part of it is design intent, Titleists always felt to me like they sat slightly open on average, and part of it is the TSi3 is designed to have a slightly flared open toe which makes it appear even more open to some. I would stay away from PINGs for a similar reason, some of those sit VERY open. MIght be worth spending some time just looking down at clubs in the store, seeing what you like and what you don't and going from there. 

[ChaosTheory]

@SvenS3  If you get another chance with that 12 degree, try setting it to the lowest loft and see what happens.  Just in the name of science.

[ChaosTheory]

One of the things that TM does with their D type heads is set the face to crown paint line slightly differently from the regular head.  I have both the regular and D type in the M4, and it’s very subtle.  I have to look very closely to see the difference in the paint.  But as Howard said, one or two degrees change in face angle is very small but makes a huge difference with a low loft club.

 

 

[SvenS3]

I hit the D-Type in the normal setting and it goes right. not so much as the TSI3 does, but it goes right.

 

Positiv from the test is, that it seems like it is the TSI 3 Head itself. And that there are other Heads that will suit me better.

 

I will make a fitting, but here in Germany is off Season right now. So the conditions are not good for a good fitting because of the temperatures.

 

I think I will try some different Taylormade Heads and see what I can do. And then I will book a fitting next year in April when the weather gets better.

 

I maybe try some different used Heads over the winter.

 

I also play my Driver at 44,5-45 at max.

[jeffrey r]

3 hours ago, SvenS3 said:

I hit the D-Type in the normal setting and it goes right. not so much as the TSI3 does, but it goes right.

 

Positiv from the test is, that it seems like it is the TSI 3 Head itself. And that there are other Heads that will suit me better.

 

I will make a fitting, but here in Germany is off Season right now. So the conditions are not good for a good fitting because of the temperatures.

 

I think I will try some different Taylormade Heads and see what I can do. And then I will book a fitting next year in April when the weather gets better.

 

I maybe try some different used Heads over the winter.

 

I also play my Driver at 44,5-45 at max.

 

Again, despite the naysayers in this thread, heads absolutely make a difference.  I have both an Epic Max and Max LS.  Max LS fades more, and Epic Max turns over much easier.  That is pretty known—nothing earth-shattering there.  You’re on the right track with the TM D drivers.  Those are very nice, and do help turning the ball over in certain settings.  

 

I hit a stock fade, and need to be mindful of driver heads.  I’ve said in this thread before, TM D drivers, Callaway Mavrik, and frankly the Epic Max is the best driver I have played in quite some time.  With the lighter Smoke im10 50, I have no problem keeping it on the right side (I am a lefty).  Good luck—you’ll get this sorted out.  Do try the Epic Max if you can—great head.

[TheDominator273]

45 minutes ago, jeffrey r said:

 

Again, despite the naysayers in this thread, heads absolutely make a difference.  I have both an Epic Max and Max LS.  Max LS fades more, and Epic Max turns over much easier.  That is pretty known—nothing earth-shattering there.  You’re on the right track with the TM D drivers.  Those are very nice, and do help turning the ball over in certain settings.  

 

I hit a stock fade, and need to be mindful of driver heads.  I’ve said in this thread before, TM D drivers, Callaway Mavrik, and frankly the Epic Max is the best driver I have played in quite some time.  With the lighter Smoke im10 50, I have no problem keeping it on the right side (I am a lefty).  Good luck—you’ll get this sorted out.  Do try the Epic Max if you can—great head.

As one of the "naysayers" it isn't about heads not making a difference, they do. It's that a 2* open to path face is something that can be fixed by some very very minimal tweaks that don't involve spending more money on another club or changing ones swing.

[CROUSE99]

As a lousy, but enthusiastic, golfer, I know lessons and a better swing would provide more improvement than an equipment change... FOR ME.  That doesn't necessarily apply to the OP.  If it applied to everyone, then tour players wouldn't be so picky about their equipment.  Ask Lee Janzen.  He once switched to Ben Hogan game improvement irons when he was a Hogan staffer.  He said the only shot he could hit with them was a high draw.  I guess all the folks arguing the OP's problem is his swing would have told Janzen the same thing.  I have always played a draw.  When I started playing, I used persimmon and almost never hit a tee shot right.  I hit plenty into the woods on the left, but I never worried about losing it right.  With modern drivers, my miss has become much less predictable.  Sometimes it's a hook, but it often is a big push.  I find big drivers hard to square up.  I know many find that a blessing, especially high speed players with good mechanics, but some of us like a little help squaring that face.  I'm afraid the OP will have to change drivers to solve the issue.  Not very helpful advice, not to mention expensive, but there it is.

[jgallant415]

I occasionally fight the same issue. For days when I just can't close the damn club face I have an Epic Max LS. Set it to D and put the sliding weight all the way over to the heel and it at least keeps the right miss in the rough as opposed to the next fairway over. On neutral settings, it's definitely less draw biased than the standard Max or the Epic Speed, but you can absolutely make it draw biased with the hosel adjustments and sliding weight. 

[1plane]

Perhaps I’ve missed it somewhere but where on the club face are you striking the driver / do you have a consistent pattern? And in which position is the weight in the Titleist head?

[Davidv]

Too bad with the sound issue on Ping as the Ping 425 SFT is areal slice buster, it is completely different from the 410 SFT performance wise. It eliminates the right side of the fairway completely each and every swing.

[rt_charger]

Simple solution: TSi3 and put weight in the heel. Mine can go from quackers to high block cuts by moving the weight (also the added weight I put in for swingweight purposes) around in the back, simply because it changes how the face rotates through the swing for me.

Edited November 8, 2021 by rt_charger

[m_w]

On 10/24/2021 at 9:39 AM, SvenS3 said:

I hit the D-Type in the normal setting and it goes right. not so much as the TSI3 does, but it goes right.

 

Positiv from the test is, that it seems like it is the TSI 3 Head itself. And that there are other Heads that will suit me better.

 

I will make a fitting, but here in Germany is off Season right now. So the conditions are not good for a good fitting because of the temperatures.

 

I think I will try some different Taylormade Heads and see what I can do. And then I will book a fitting next year in April when the weather gets better.

 

I maybe try some different used Heads over the winter.

 

I also play my Driver at 44,5-45 at max.

 

I have a very similar issue as yours. My swing path is 1 - 3 degrees inside-out but I really struggle with the correct release pattern on the driver (same as you, no issues with irons) - I'm swinging about 103 miles on a good day and will dip into the 99's early mornings, just for reference. I can share my experience:

 

The drivers I've tried:

• TSi3 9* - Weight in heel, A2 and A3 positions. This driver was the best performer in terms of the good ones but it covered almost none of my misses. I tried it for about 2 month before giving up. The shafts I tried: Ventus Blue 6S, 1K-50S, AD-DI6s. Out of the shafts, I feel that shafts with an active tip such as the AD-DI are best suited to help "catch up" the face.
• Mavrik Max 9* - Really forgiving driver, draw biased. Definitely helped me close it up and produce better flights without the miss to the right. I Changed the weights around to get a bit better spin and ball speed out of it but the driver just spins too much for me. Played with the MSI 130 White.
• Sim2 D-Type 9* - Also helped me square it up more easily. The draw bias on this one is pretty minimal when compared to other draw models I feel and spin is still manageable. I could play this driver especially if I'd dial in the shaft. Unfortunately, I'm not a fan of  the sound (and of Taylormade overall). I would look at this driver if I were you
• Ping G425 Max 9* - Weight in Heel, playing in "Small+". Another driver that gives you great forgiveness and helps with the face while keeping spin in a pretty good window. Performed very consistently for me but was consistently 8-15 yards shorter than i.e. the Sim D-Type for me. The sound was horrid to me and disqualified the driver.
• Ping G425 SFT 10.5* - playing in "Big -", opening the SFT and turning the loft down to 9* makes this driver playable for me. I feel like you can't miss right with this driver, even when I try and put a hard fade on it, it goes straight or max a baby draw. The spin is on the higher end, the sound is OK, not great, but if you really want to take "right" out of the equation, I think this is the only option. You are sacrificing shot shaping which ultimately made me not keep this one. I do want to be able to hit a fade if the hole calls for it. I could see this head work really well with a counter-balanced shaft like the VA Nemesys and some hot melt towards the front of the clubs to bring down spin a little more if you were to optimize it.
• TSi2 9* - playing in D3 at 9.75* - great combination of helping with the face but still being able to hit other shapes as well. Manageable spin, combined with a active tip shaft, really helped my delivery, probably the best all-around driver for me personally with my delivery specs. Trying this with an AD-DI and a Ventus Red. It does not protect against the "oops its 4.5* open" miss that the SFT still "takes" but it gives you more options.

Not sure if this helps you at all, but wanted to share my experiences during my search.

[Whatnogarnish]

What swing-weight is your driver? You can go lighter shaft to help wrist rotation, Worked for me. 

[mdmack]

I don't disagree that the club could be the problem as I have had clubs that I just couldn't do certain things with (tsi3 3 wood being one of them). I'm not sure that I would necessarily be looking into D type drivers though. 2* open is not, in my opinion at least, enough to need a D type driver. It could be as simple as the way the tsi3 looks at address that makes you subconsciously leave it open or like someone above suggested swing weight and/or shaft weight could be hurting. I agree with above that a fitting would be ideal, but since that's not what you want to do I say the more clubs you can swing the better. I just would definitely not limit myself to D type drivers. I know I push/fade everything with Titleist drivers/woods, and pull everything with Callaway equipment. I've found that for some reason Taylormade and Ping drivers and woods are my bread and butter. I have no data to explain, and honestly don't care, why I hit them the best, I just know that they perform for me.

 

I guess what I'm trying to say is YMMV from our experiences and you should just hit as many combinations as you can if you don't want to go get fit.