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Epoxy Set Times: Outdoor Workshed


farlo001
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Hi All - Thanks in adavance for taking a minute to help.  I took my first shot at swapping some iron shafts and had a questions about epoxy set times.  My workshed is an outdoor shed that is not heated or cooled.  With the cooler temps, was curious about the set times on the epoxy.  The epoxy states a 24 hour set time however, temps have been somewhat cold (I am in Alabama).  High 30's at night but today has high of 65.  The shed doesnt get quite this cold but was curious if the epoxy will just take a bit longer to set or if i should be worried about it setting just in general.  I set them last night and was going to bring them inside tonight to give them a bit of extra time.

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It should set on its own but exactly how much longer depends on the epoxy and its cure time/table formulation which usually is not fully published (I think the 3M products you can find that data on, but I don't see any for example from Golfworks on quick search). 

 

If you periodically work on reshafting, do yourself a favor and make yourself a simple hot box (foil with a 75/100w light bulb) or use a heat gun on low shot at the hosel. I prefer the later, and used a simple thermometer next to the club to get the distance away from the club correct for my gun. 

 

This way you can heat the epoxy to a higher temp even in cool ambient conditions which nets you both a better bond and a much shorter curing type (varies by epoxy).

 

 

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It's not just time, but epoxy cured at higher temps will have more strength than when cold, even if the cold-cured epoxy had days/weeks to cure. Higher than room temp (e.g. over 100F range) has the benefits of both faster cure and a stronger bond.

 

Check your mixing stick and if the epoxy has set past the "gel" stage, you should be safe to bring the clubs indoors to finish curing.

Edited by dubbelbogey
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6 minutes ago, dubbelbogey said:

It's not just time, but epoxy cured at higher temps will have more strength than when cold, even if the cold-cured epoxy had days/weeks to cure. Higher than room temp (e.g. over 100F range) has the benefits of both faster cure and a stronger bond.

 

Check your mixing stick and if the epoxy has set past the "gel" stage, you should be safe to bring the clubs indoors to finish curing.

 

Thanks.  I actually left out the board I used to mix so that should be a good inidcator as well.  Should have thought it through a little more.  At least I have plenty of epoxy if the heads start flying off!!  Should be better at it the second go round!

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Do you have a heat gun?  Harbor Freight sells them for $17 if you don't.

 

Take some scrap wood and build a crude air dam around the clubs with a blow through opening on both sides.  Set your heat gun on low, lay it on the ground about 2' from the dam opening and turn it on. Wait a few minutes and then check the warmth of the heads.  You want about 140F, which will be warm to the touch but not super hot.  Like the temp of the steering wheel of your car on a warm day.  The epoxy will be fully cured in 60 mins at 140F or 90 mins at 120F.  The epoxy will be stronger when cured this way too.  

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Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 4 wood w/Aldila Rogue Black 70S
Cobra (Lexi blue) F7 Hybrid w/Aldila Kuro Kage 80S
Mizuno JPX 929 Hot Metal w/Nippon 950S
Ping Glide 55/60 wedges w/Recoil 110S
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  • 1 month later...
On 11/30/2021 at 12:35 PM, Nessism said:

Do you have a heat gun?  Harbor Freight sells them for $17 if you don't.

 

Take some scrap wood and build a crude air dam around the clubs with a blow through opening on both sides.  Set your heat gun on low, lay it on the ground about 2' from the dam opening and turn it on. Wait a few minutes and then check the warmth of the heads.  You want about 140F, which will be warm to the touch but not super hot.  Like the temp of the steering wheel of your car on a warm day.  The epoxy will be fully cured in 60 mins at 140F or 90 mins at 120F.  The epoxy will be stronger when cured this way too.  

 Borrowed your idea, but used aluminum foil instead. Anxious to see how it turns out. This is my first time assembling my own irons. Purchased a set of TE forged already assembled by Golfworks and was hearing creaking noises on two or three of the irons. Pretty sure it from the irons being assembled and shipped so quickly. That and they installed the shafts labels up which was driving me crazy. Took them apart and at first was going to use their qucik set epoyx, but held off and ordered some Brampton's 20/20 to use instead. I bascially placed all of the irons on the foil and made a long tunnel over the top. Set my heat gun on low and I had a nice consistent temp of around 130 at both ends. Let that sit for an hour then removed the heat gun and replaced it with a small fan blown heater. Clubs are in the basement and it's about 55 down there. Checked a little while ago and the foil tunnel is holding a nice temp of around 78 now.

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On 11/30/2021 at 11:19 AM, bvanlieu said:

It should set on its own but exactly how much longer depends on the epoxy and its cure time/table formulation which usually is not fully published (I think the 3M products you can find that data on, but I don't see any for example from Golfworks on quick search). 

 

If you periodically work on reshafting, do yourself a favor and make yourself a simple hot box (foil with a 75/100w light bulb) or use a heat gun on low shot at the hosel. I prefer the later, and used a simple thermometer next to the club to get the distance away from the club correct for my gun. 

 

This way you can heat the epoxy to a higher temp even in cool ambient conditions which nets you both a better bond and a much shorter curing type (varies by epoxy).

 

 

 

Thank you for this ^^^^^!

 

I've been doing my own builds for close to 20 years, and haven't done this yet, but it's genius.  I currently set the clubs in my basement bathroom with the heater on for a few hours...it gets to about mid-80s in there, but my wife doesn't like this. 

Taylormade SIM2 8.0; Project X HZRDUS Black RDX 65g, 6.5
Callaway Epic Flash SZ 13.5*; Mitsubishi Diamana WB 73X
PXG X 18*; Project X 6.5
PXG 0311T Gen4; Project X 7.0 (ss1x)
TM HI-Toe, raw - 52; Project X 7.0
TM HI-Toe, raw - 56; DG X100 black
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It's all about the temperature in the environment.

Taylormade mySIM2 murdered out 10.5 (Set to 9.0) MCA Tensei Pro White 1k 60S"/Testing Stealth + 9 w same shaft
Taylormade SIM2 15 set to 14.5 MCA Tensei AV Blue 75S Tipped .5"
Taylormade SIM2 Rescue 19.5 (set to 18.5) Tensei AV White 90 S
Taylormade M3 3i KBS Tour 105 Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 5-PW DG AMT S300
Taylormade MG2 52 DGTIS400, MG2TW 56/12 DGTIS400, & Tour Raw Hi Toe 60/09 KBS HiRev 125
Scotty Cameron TeI Newport 2 Longneck 34"
Bridgestone Tour B XS

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5 hours ago, treadwej said:

 

Thank you for this ^^^^^!

 

I've been doing my own builds for close to 20 years, and haven't done this yet, but it's genius.  I currently set the clubs in my basement bathroom with the heater on for a few hours...it gets to about mid-80s in there, but my wife doesn't like this. 

 

If I do any re-shafting in the winter I set the clubs on top of my hot water heater overnight. Its warm but not hot enough to cause damage. (My wife isn't a fan either).  

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