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which bounce - 4* or 8*
A few days ago there was a question about bounce on a wedge and several good answers. My question is what would be a good general duty bounce? The course I play the most (60%) tends to be have fairways and sand that are kind of hard but the others I play have high grass and soft fairways especially closer to the green you get. I can't afford to have a seperate clubs depending on where I play, so which would be a good compromise that would be a better all around club?

:)
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A few days ago there was a question about bounce on a wedge and several good answers. My question is what would be a good general duty bounce? The course I play the most (60%) tends to be have fairways and sand that are kind of hard but the others I play have high grass and soft fairways especially closer to the green you get. I can't afford to have a seperate clubs depending on where I play, so which would be a good compromise that would be a better all around club?

 

:)

That is a tough question, but I prefer my L wedge's with less bounce.

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A few days ago there was a question about bounce on a wedge and several good answers. My question is what would be a good general duty bounce? The course I play the most (60%) tends to be have fairways and sand that are kind of hard but the others I play have high grass and soft fairways especially closer to the green you get. I can't afford to have a seperate clubs depending on where I play, so which would be a good compromise that would be a better all around club?

 

:)

 

 

Answer: Your going to have to go with the low bounce wedge and open it up to add a lil' bit of bounce when the fwy's have higher grass.......OR you can take an 8 degree and buzz of some of the bounce in the heel to make it 4 or less.....or buzz the primary bounce to 6 degrees and then the heel to 0 - 4.......takes just a few minutes if you know what your doing......Gene Sheely and Ronny McGraw of the old Hogan Co. showed me how to do it right and its EASY.......just get a junk wedge to practice on........I'll grind a lil'......then go hit a shot off of VERY tight turf........the grind a lil' bit more if need be.........then when its "right" I polish it back......takes no more than 10 - 15 minutes........I grind just about EVERY wedge I receive to get them just "right"........:cheesy:

 

One word of CAUTION.....do NOT grind on a BeCu wedges......toxic fumes.....

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What exactly is bounce? How does it effect the ball? The shot?

 

 

OK, here goes......now nobody laugh......I'm NOT Cameron, Mills, etc.

 

Bounce is simply the angle of the sole of the club vs. a dead on vertical axis of the hosel and/or the horizontal axis (level) of the sole......if the sole ("bottom") of the club has NO bounce then the sole would be "level" with the ground at the set up and the shaft would be close to vertical.......The more "bounce" a club has the more the clubshaft will "tilt"/angle towards the target when the club is grounded properly on a firm surface.......

 

Bounce keeps the clubhead from "digging"/sticking into the ground on certain shots......for instance, without "bounce" a "stock" bunker shot would be MUCH more difficult as the clubhead would want to dig.....but because the club has "bounce" the clubhead, once striking the sand, wants to "rebound" out of the sand rather than "dig".........

 

Bounce is also advantagous out of certain fairway grasses (Zoyzia for instance) and "fluffy" lies as it keep the club from "digging' to far under the golf ball and hitting fat shots.......flubbing chips/pitches, etc.

 

To the contrary, a lot of "bounce" is NOT good from tight lies and tight small bladed fairway grasses like Bermuda.......with a tight lie you WANT the blade to dig in order in order to strike the ball on the appropriate portion of the clubface ........with too much "bounce" its hard to keep from "blading" the ball off of tight fwy grass or other 'tight" lies......lack of bounce also allows the player to "slide" an open clubface "under" the golf ball on soft pitches/chips/lobs from tight lies........

 

MOST good SW's have "variable" bounce that is "rolled" towards the back heel portion of the clubhead......this allows some "versatility"......you can play more shots with the same wedge......

 

Man, that is probably the worst explanation I've ever read.....but I tried.....:)

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SF, I'm not laughing AT you, I'm laughing with you. :)

 

Here's a definition:

The term "bounce" is used to describe a specific design of the soles of irons and wedges that is intended to reduce the "drag" of the sole through sand, longer grass or Bermuda grass; or, to reduce the incidence of hitting behind the ball (fat shots).

 

A bounce sole design is characterized by the rear sole edge (the trailing edge) being closer to the ground than the front sole edge (the leading edge) when the club is addressed behind the ball. That relationship of the front and back of the sole creates an angled surface on the bottom of the sole, which resists the clubhead digging deeper into sand or digging deeper into tall grass.

 

At the same time, if the bounce angle of the sole is too great, it will be a killer when trying to hit shots from hardpan or very thin turf – the trailing edge will contact the hard ground first and literally could cause the leading edge to "bounce" into the belly of the ball, thus creating a far greater chance of hitting the dreaded bladed shot.

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SF, I'm not laughing AT you, I'm laughing with you. :)

 

Here's a definition:

The term "bounce" is used to describe a specific design of the soles of irons and wedges that is intended to reduce the "drag" of the sole through sand, longer grass or Bermuda grass; or, to reduce the incidence of hitting behind the ball (fat shots).

 

A bounce sole design is characterized by the rear sole edge (the trailing edge) being closer to the ground than the front sole edge (the leading edge) when the club is addressed behind the ball. That relationship of the front and back of the sole creates an angled surface on the bottom of the sole, which resists the clubhead digging deeper into sand or digging deeper into tall grass.

 

At the same time, if the bounce angle of the sole is too great, it will be a killer when trying to hit shots from hardpan or very thin turf – the trailing edge will contact the hard ground first and literally could cause the leading edge to "bounce" into the belly of the ball, thus creating a far greater chance of hitting the dreaded bladed shot.

 

Ted, I liked my explanation better! :cheesy: :cheesy: :cheesy:......(OBVIOUSLY J.K.)

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A few days ago there was a question about bounce on a wedge and several good answers. My question is what would be a good general duty bounce? The course I play the most (60%) tends to be have fairways and sand that are kind of hard but the others I play have high grass and soft fairways especially closer to the green you get. I can't afford to have a seperate clubs depending on where I play, so which would be a good compromise that would be a better all around club?

 

:)

 

i've got two lob wedges, both 60*, one 8* bounce and one 4*. i play in north texas, hard fairways, tight lies, but thick rough. sand typically on the hard side in the bunkers. i have no problem with either of the two clubs having too much or too little bounce with the exception of the 4* bounce from a bunker with real soft sand. so you can't go wong with either. personally, i would go with the 8*. its more versatile and you if you have problems with the bounce being too much when you open up for flop shots you can always go and get the heel bounce ground down to help.

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