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What's your go-to protocol for cleaning hosels / bores after pulling shafts?


dlovage
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Hi all, new to club-making here and loving it! I've absorbed a ton of GolfWrx and YT content and trying to finalize my own protocol for shaft pulls. Wanted to hear from you all on your fave tips and tricks for:

 

1. Cleaning hosels after pulling shafts, both for recent pulls and "older" pulls (on, for example, heads that you buy online that may not have been cleaned out). I've pieced together that cleaning with a wire brush immediately after you heat and pull + later sanding with a bit + acetone to clean out is a reasonable approach? Yay or nay?

 

2. If you plan on reusing shafts you pull is it best to scrape off the dead epoxy immediately after the pull or waiting a bit? Does it matter?

 

3. How do you know if there's residual epoxy at the bottom of the hosel that needs to be taken out? 

 

Looking forward to hearing your answers!

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I am definitely not a master club builder but I do reshaft clubs occasionally. The pros will no doubt have a better technical answer, but I've found that a .40 cal bore brush (for cleaning gun barrels) works good. I put it in an electric drill and clean out the junk. 

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1) Reasonable approach, yeah, as long as the sandpaper used before the acetone isn't too fine. . Plenty of ways to skin this particular cat, all that matters is that the epoxy is gone and surfaces are roughed up a bit. How you go about doing that isn't terribly important (within reason of course, please don't soak your hosels in acetic acid or anything like that, lol). 

2) It tends to be easier to the epoxy off immediately after pulling since it tends to be more broken down and fragile, but any time is fine really. 

3) The bottom of the hosel isn't super important as long as whatever is there isn't meaningfully impacting insertion depth, but you'll generally want to get something you can scrape the bottom of the hosel with. I have a bastxxx file I use for several things, including it's angular handle section meant to be inserted into a wooden handle. On its own it can scrape the hell out of things so i'll tend to use that in the hosel/adaptor if anything is being stubborn, either on the walls or the bottom. 

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6 hours ago, dlovage said:

Hi all, new to club-making here and loving it! I've absorbed a ton of GolfWrx and YT content and trying to finalize my own protocol for shaft pulls. Wanted to hear from you all on your fave tips and tricks for:

 

1. Cleaning hosels after pulling shafts, both for recent pulls and "older" pulls (on, for example, heads that you buy online that may not have been cleaned out). I've pieced together that cleaning with a wire brush immediately after you heat and pull + later sanding with a bit + acetone to clean out is a reasonable approach? Yay or nay?

 

Wire brush is usually sufficient.  Sandpaper is rarely needed - except maybe for the aluminum adapters. And even then just for the first usage of a new adapter.

 

Alchohol (iso-propyl or denatured) usually does as good a job as acetone.

 

 

 

6 hours ago, dlovage said:

2. If you plan on reusing shafts you pull is it best to scrape off the dead epoxy immediately after the pull or waiting a bit? Does it matter?

 

Right after - while the epoxy is still warm from the pull is much easier than waiting until after it cools down.   If you do wait, a small amount of time with a torch can heat it back up (for steel shafts).  For graphite, I generally use a flat file instead of scraping if it's cold.

 

 

6 hours ago, dlovage said:

3. How do you know if there's residual epoxy at the bottom of the hosel that needs to be taken out? 

 

Don't mean to sound like a smart a** - but you only need to look down the hosel to see how clean the bore is or if there is any remaining epoxy that should be removed.  Yes, use a good light source.

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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I'm with Stuart here.

Wire brush only.

Look in the hosel, If there's any epoxy  or tip weights in there, I'll take a 5/16" drill bit in a hand drill for a quick cleanout.

I prefer denatured alcohol over acetone, but have used both.

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8 hours ago, RSinSG said:

I am definitely not a master club builder but I do reshaft clubs occasionally. The pros will no doubt have a better technical answer, but I've found that a .40 cal bore brush (for cleaning gun barrels) works good. I put it in an electric drill and clean out the junk. 

 

Yup exactly this.  You can use the brass brush one or the one that is spiraled metal, which I find works better.

 

image.png.5be0a0c7630623ab20d2f0f0c3967839.png

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One tip about using wire brushes on a drill bit.

 

Make sure that you don't use the drill on high speed. If you do you can inadvertently polish the inside of the hosel, which is the opposite of what you want. 

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Best method...

 

Pull the head using a torch, NOT a heat gun.  Focus the torch flame directly on the hosel and heat the minimal time necessary to break down the epoxy.  If using a full size propane torch, about 15 seconds of heat is all that's needed for irons.  For adapter shafts, about half that much time.

 

While the head/shaft is hot, I use a wire brush on a drill motor for the hosel, and scrap off the epoxy on the shaft.

 

Degrease with MEK or Acetone.  Q-tips dipped in the sauce work well for the hosel.

 

Next, a coarse grit sandpaper sleeve on a spinning mandrel to really clean the metal and create "tooth" for the adhesive to adhere to.  

 

Degrease yet again.

 

Allow the degreaser to dry well prior to bonding.

 

Also, if using shaft pulls, make sure any epoxy inside the shaft is cleaned out.

 

Some will say this method is overkill, but it's not.  Many heads these days, such as Ping irons, PXG irons, and others where there is a fair bit of shaft to hosel clearance, need a really good surface to bond to, otherwise the joint may fail.  I learned this first hand.

 

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Get a set of these. It's not expensive, and while you don't use them often they're invaluable when you need them.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R2XE20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I run a wire brush on a drill in the hosel immediately after pulling the shaft. followed by acetone with a Q-Tip will leave it ready for reshafting.

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32 minutes ago, Mp14forlife said:

I like the compressed air vs. Acetone cause I won't ever have to worry about any residue issues with epoxy. 

 

Acetone itself does not leave a residue.  All you have to do is make sure it evaporates completely before applying the epoxy - and that doesn't take long at all.   And if you're in a hurry, a bit of heat (not flame) can make sure that happens in a matter of seconds.

 

Now contaminants dissolved by the acetone may recrystallize as the acetone evaporates if the cleaning process wasn't done well enough.  But then if those contaminants were present, compressed air is not going to help get rid of them so you're not going to be any worse off by using the acetone.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Mp14forlife said:

I like the compressed air vs. Acetone cause I won't ever have to worry about any residue issues with epoxy.

Compressed air can have oil and other contaminants in it. If I clean the hosel with compressed air, I follow with denatured alcohol.

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8 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Wire brush is usually sufficient.  Sandpaper is rarely needed - except maybe for the aluminum adapters. And even then just for the first usage of a new adapter.

 

Alchohol (iso-propyl or denatured) usually does as good a job as acetone.

 

 

 

 

Right after - while the epoxy is still warm from the pull is much easier than waiting until after it cools down.   If you do wait, a small amount of time with a torch can heat it back up (for steel shafts).  For graphite, I generally use a flat file instead of scraping if it's cold.

 

 

 

Don't mean to sound like a smart a** - but you only need to look down the hosel to see how clean the bore is or if there is any remaining epoxy that should be removed.  Yes, use a good light source.

 

 

 

Haha, I guess I asked for that. It’s more about looking at the depth when I shine a light and see some residual epoxy and ask whether that’s ok or not.

 

A similar-ish question: I have a few shaft pulls I bought that still have an epoxy plug at the tip of the shaft inside. Is it as simple as drilling it with a bit until it’s gone? Do I have to get it all out or a little bit in the inner diameter is ok?  Ideally if I was doing the pull should I try to remove that as soon as I pull the heads? Same way with a drill bit?

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4 hours ago, dlovage said:

Haha, I guess I asked for that. It’s more about looking at the depth when I shine a light and see some residual epoxy and ask whether that’s ok or not.

 

I personally try to get it all out, leave nothing behind.  But that might be overkill.   It's more important that 1) you get full insertion depth of the new tip and 2) no old epoxy is on the wall of the hosel to interfere with the new epoxy bond.

 

4 hours ago, dlovage said:

A similar-ish question: I have a few shaft pulls I bought that still have an epoxy plug at the tip of the shaft inside. Is it as simple as drilling it with a bit until it’s gone?

 

Pretty much.

 

4 hours ago, dlovage said:

Do I have to get it all out or a little bit in the inner diameter is ok?  

 

The important thing is that there is an air passage to prevent an air lock when the tip is used the next time.  The exact diameter of the drilled passage insn't important - unless you need to make room for a tip weight.

 

When drilling, it's actually better to wait for the epoxy to cool.   Cold and hard epoxy drills much better than warm and soft epoxy.  When it's softer, it doesn't cut well and more heat builds up from friction.

 

 

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Rolled up 60 grit sandpaper, insert into hosel and spin with a drill bit. Simple and effective. Best to remove most epoxy while still warm. I chip it out of the bottom of the hosel if needed with a small Swiss Army knife blade. 

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On 8/15/2022 at 10:37 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

Acetone itself does not leave a residue.  All you have to do is make sure it evaporates completely before applying the epoxy - and that doesn't take long at all.   And if you're in a hurry, a bit of heat (not flame) can make sure that happens in a matter of seconds.

 

Now contaminants dissolved by the acetone may recrystallize as the acetone evaporates if the cleaning process wasn't done well enough.  But then if those contaminants were present, compressed air is not going to help get rid of them so you're not going to be any worse off by using the acetone.

 

 

Appreciate the info!

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On 8/15/2022 at 10:08 AM, Billfitz said:

Get a set of these. It's not expensive, and while you don't use them often they're invaluable when you need them.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R2XE20/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Damn I spend like $15 on a 2 pack! Glad I saw this.

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Yep, cheap enough that even if you get only one use out of one you don't mind.

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