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Paint, cleanup, and things left untouched -- how to harden pain question


Anser3

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On the Scotty Cameron putters, the paintfill in the weights is a hard finish that you can't make an indention in with your fingernail.  Does anybody know how they get this to dry this hard?

 

I know Tamiya paints are the go-to for matching Scotty colors.  I have done paintfill before on other putters and clubs but most areas are small and the hardness of the dried paint doesn't matter inside an Odyssey swirl or other area.  The weights have a slightly larger surface area and I want to make sure that area is durable.    Do I just need to let the paint fully cure?  Do I need to coat it?  Tamiya said if I place a clear coat on over the Tamiya acrylic, it will lift the paint.  I tried this and the clear green developed a slight clear spot.  It was barely noticeable but it bugged me enough to strip the paint out and to start over.  Tamiya enamel clear coats are hard to come by and tend to yellow a bit over time.  I just wantsomething that will not tarnish the original paintfill but will develop a hard protective layer over the paint.

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Yes the paint has to cure either leave it for a while or if you remove the head or have it removed place it in a dehumidifier to cure faster. 

Lefty - WITB Thread

Driver: 10° Cobra LTDxLS | AD-IZ 6X 

3W: 15° Callaway Paradym X | AD-IZ 7X

3H: 19° Ping G410 | Tensei CK Pro Orange 90TX

Irons: PXG 0311P 4-6 | 0317CB 7-PW | DG 120 X100

Wedges: SM9 50° - 54° - 58° 

Putter(s): Ping PLD Anser 4K | CMD Gauge R | and more. 

Ball: TP5X 2024

Bag: Ghost Katana

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58 minutes ago, MattM97 said:

Yes the paint has to cure either leave it for a while or if you remove the head or have it removed place it in a dehumidifier to cure faster. 

 

 

How long (approximately) is curing time?  I've usually done painting and cleanup within two days.  But again, I never had to paint something that required a "pool" of paint before  (thin layers but still pooled).

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38 minutes ago, Anser3 said:

 

 

How long (approximately) is curing time?  I've usually done painting and cleanup within two days.  But again, I never had to paint something that required a "pool" of paint before  (thin layers but still pooled).

 

Depends on the paint and the weather where you live. Most paint should have a guide for curing time on their sites. 

 

For me I leave then at least a week especially in winter to cure. Summer a bit less. 

Lefty - WITB Thread

Driver: 10° Cobra LTDxLS | AD-IZ 6X 

3W: 15° Callaway Paradym X | AD-IZ 7X

3H: 19° Ping G410 | Tensei CK Pro Orange 90TX

Irons: PXG 0311P 4-6 | 0317CB 7-PW | DG 120 X100

Wedges: SM9 50° - 54° - 58° 

Putter(s): Ping PLD Anser 4K | CMD Gauge R | and more. 

Ball: TP5X 2024

Bag: Ghost Katana

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5 minutes ago, Anser3 said:

 

 

Thank you.  Do I even need a clear coat?

 

Up to you I don't bother since you're already using so much paint and it's a golf club after all. 

Lefty - WITB Thread

Driver: 10° Cobra LTDxLS | AD-IZ 6X 

3W: 15° Callaway Paradym X | AD-IZ 7X

3H: 19° Ping G410 | Tensei CK Pro Orange 90TX

Irons: PXG 0311P 4-6 | 0317CB 7-PW | DG 120 X100

Wedges: SM9 50° - 54° - 58° 

Putter(s): Ping PLD Anser 4K | CMD Gauge R | and more. 

Ball: TP5X 2024

Bag: Ghost Katana

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Tamiya acrylic and a DROP (applied with a toothpick) of acetone. Comes out like it just left the custom shop. No need for clear coat. 

Taylormade SIM2 - Project X Hzrdus Smoke Black RDX 70 6.5

Cobra LTD 3w - Project X Evenflow Black 85 6.0

Cobra LTD 5w - Project X Evenflow Black 85 6.0

PXG 0311x 4 DI - Mitsubishi MMT 90s

New Level 902 OS 5-PW - Mitsubishi MMT 105s
New Level 902 OS 50 - Mitsubishi MMT 105x

Scratch Forged SS 56 - Nippon Modus Wedge 115

Scratch Forged SS 60 - Nippon Modus Wedge 115

Custom MackMade Putter

Vice Pro

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tamiya has the clear gloss paints that are translucent and dry glossy. no need for a clear coat, just a small drop does the trick 

1FDBA1A4-B465-40D6-A2EA-D87A594ECF12.jpeg

Edited by AlohaPineapple

🍍 2023 WITB 🍍

Titleist TSR3 9.0* w/ Ventus Black 6x

TaylorMade Stealth 2+ 15* w/ Ventus Red 7x

Titleist TSR3 19* w/ Ventus HB Blue 8s

Titleist T200 4-iron w/ Axiom 105x

Artisan LS 720HM 5-PW w/ Modus 115x

Artisan 50*, 56* w/ TT DGS S200

Vokey WW 60* LB-K w/ TT DGS S200

Scotty Cameron Tei3 Newport Two

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  • 1 month later...

I'm having this issue with my Scotty weights as well. I use lacquer thinner mixed with the paint in my applicator bottle and it definitely makes the paint much less thick. My lettering and the cherry bombs in the cavity look great, but the weights have fuzz from the headcover now baked in to the paint on my weights. Even after letting it dry for 3 or 4 days. I'm going to try and thin the paint a little more this time and try again. 

 

IMG_2998.jpg.9bef9db6523cd4cbc24d0331b321f955.jpg.e1beca4f793a5ae28b08f8e5a799bc7f.jpgIMG_2996.jpg.d97aca7dfef8f5f1a83655f166fd9f1f.jpg.7f69b053e6876cfffa59cbac59da510b.jpg

Edited by coreyhr

Callaway AI Smoke TD 10.5° | Ventus TR Blue 6s

Taylormade BRNR Mini 13.5° | Hzrdus Yellow 75 6.5

Callaway Apex UW 19° | Tour AD TP 7s

Callaway XR Pro 23° | Tour AD DI 95x
Maltby TS3/TS4 5-PW | Dynamic Gold S300
Cleveland RTX 6: 50° 56° 60° | KBS Tour Custom 120s Black 

L.A.B. DF 3 Counterbalance 37.5" | TPT Putter Shaft 

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1 minute ago, coreyhr said:

I'm having this issue with my Scotty weights as well. I use lacquer thinner mixed with the paint in my applicator bottle and it definitely makes the paint much less thick. My lettering and the cherry bombs in the cavity look great, but the weights have fuzz from the headcover now baked in to the paint on my weights. Even after letting it dry for 3 or 4 days. I'm going to try and thin the paint a little more this time and try again. 

 

 

What paint did you use?  I used Tamiya Clear (clear green in my case).  Put 1-2 small drops of acetone in the weights first then drop your paint in.  I covered the weights with a small plastic container to keep air/dust/anything lingering off them.  I also let them sit for about 10 days .  The paint eventually dried hard and I finally covered it with Tamiya gloss varnish (https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Paints-Finishes-Coating-Varnish/dp/B00GYT1IS4  but I bought mine off ebay).  You don't get much but it is more than enough to do your putter weights multiple times.  Do not use clear coat as it can lift the paint.  I did not bake my paint.  Tamiya did not recommend that.  I also called Lamont to ask about paint.  he said there isn't much you can do with it except let it cure.    Hope this helps.    O, I did add a bit of Mr Color leveling thinner to the paint prior to application and used a bottle/syringe dropper.  It finally came out great  (I was stripping the paint at the slightest sign of imperfection and did the weights a few times before they came out the way I wanted).

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13 minutes ago, Anser3 said:

 

 

What paint did you use?  I used Tamiya Clear (clear green in my case).  Put 1-2 small drops of acetone in the weights first then drop your paint in.  I covered the weights with a small plastic container to keep air/dust/anything lingering off them.  I also let them sit for about 10 days .  The paint eventually dried hard and I finally covered it with Tamiya gloss varnish (https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Paints-Finishes-Coating-Varnish/dp/B00GYT1IS4  but I bought mine off ebay).  You don't get much but it is more than enough to do your putter weights multiple times.  Do not use clear coat as it can lift the paint.  I did not bake my paint.  Tamiya did not recommend that.  I also called Lamont to ask about paint.  he said there isn't much you can do with it except let it cure.    Hope this helps.    O, I did add a bit of Mr Color leveling thinner to the paint prior to application and used a bottle/syringe dropper.  It finally came out great  (I was stripping the paint at the slightest sign of imperfection and did the weights a few times before they came out the way I wanted).

Thanks for the tips. I used Tamiya Clear Blue on this putter. I used roughly a 4:1 mixture of paint/lacquer thinner in my applicator bottle. I'll try the gloss varnish this time and see if that does the trick. 

Callaway AI Smoke TD 10.5° | Ventus TR Blue 6s

Taylormade BRNR Mini 13.5° | Hzrdus Yellow 75 6.5

Callaway Apex UW 19° | Tour AD TP 7s

Callaway XR Pro 23° | Tour AD DI 95x
Maltby TS3/TS4 5-PW | Dynamic Gold S300
Cleveland RTX 6: 50° 56° 60° | KBS Tour Custom 120s Black 

L.A.B. DF 3 Counterbalance 37.5" | TPT Putter Shaft 

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2 minutes ago, coreyhr said:

Thanks for the tips. I used Tamiya Clear Blue on this putter. I used roughly a 4:1 mixture of paint/lacquer thinner in my applicator bottle. I'll try the gloss varnish this time and see if that does the trick. 

 Mine dried glossy and hard even before the varnish.  I also let it sit covered for about 10 days or so  (I removed the weights first)

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