SOLVED... Sim Ti 3W Weight Removal Problem

[dgmusae]

I messed up and now I don't know how to remove the weight from the bottom.

Please help!

Edited March 31 by dgmusae

[Sean124]

I would probably use a dremel to cut a slot across it, heat it with a butane torch, and remove it with a flat head screwdriver. 

[SE Gamer]

1 minute ago, Sean124 said:

I would probably use a dremel to cut a slot across it, heat it with a butane torch, and remove it with a flat head screwdriver. 

 

This is a good solution. Could also potentially force a slightly larger bit in there. Was able to do this once with a stripped hex head. Also have seen guys who jbweld a bit into the head of the fastener. Give it time to set up, then remove it. 

[dgmusae]

It feels like it is glued. Can I use the heat gun directly on the screw to loosen it first?

What did I get myself into... damn...

[SE Gamer]

28 minutes ago, dgmusae said:

It feels like it is glued. Can I use the heat gun directly on the screw to loosen it first?

What did I get myself into... damn...

 

How exactly did it get to this point where you're currently at? 

Not sure about a heat gun. Given there's some polymer/plastic in close proximity. Also would be surprised if they actually glued them in there. 

[Valtiel]

47 minutes ago, SE Gamer said:

 

How exactly did it get to this point where you're currently at? 

Not sure about a heat gun. Given there's some polymer/plastic in close proximity. Also would be surprised if they actually glued them in there. 

They often use blue Loctite in there which loosens with heat. A hair dryer is safe, a soldering iron applied directly to the weight to heat up is a little more direct. 

I'm confused what was used on this weight to get to this point too though. I see some hex pattern left in there but tons of wear around it like he used something weird to attempt this. 

[dgmusae]

I used torx wrench but for some reason this weight seems very weak. Almost like plastic feel to it instead of steel.

 

[SE Gamer]

5 hours ago, Valtiel said:

They often use blue Loctite in there which loosens with heat. A hair dryer is safe, a soldering iron applied directly to the weight to heat up is a little more direct. 

I'm confused what was used on this weight to get to this point too though. I see some hex pattern left in there but tons of wear around it like he used something weird to attempt this. 

 

Guess that makes sense why they'd throw some on there. Although isn't blue supposed to be removed without heat? Regardless, the soldering iron trick is a good one to really be specific in where you're applying heat.

[dgmusae]

This is a small head tour version I bought from a member here. Total head weight is 208 (including the shaft tip) which is on the lighter side.

So I wanted take the weight out and see how much it weights... didn't know it was going to become this problematic 😐 

[SC-TX 88]

I’ve had this happen to a m2 tour fairway. I drilled a hole through it and then used a screw extractor 

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-Metal-Double-ended-Set-Screw-Extractor/1000170531?store_code=681&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_215_Power-Tool-Accessories-_-1000170531-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W_5H8ko4EZCFl7SnqJxib4ja&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W_5H8ko4EZCFl7SnqJxib4ja&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4-hBhCtARIsAC9gR3Zxx--OB_qA4Ne98yundr_aOFzvHGT3hBOwhxuqnqJTcZsqAwFD2awaAqrNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Masse1369]

You can try a T25 torx bit and see if it catches and you can get it out with some heat.  If it's past that point, get a screw extractor and they even make some sort of liquid that helps it adhere and you will be able to get it out.  You will just need to heat it up.  If you can't get it done, you can send it to me and I will do it for free, just pay for return shipping.

[dgmusae]

15 minutes ago, SC-TX 88 said:

I’ve had this happen to a m2 tour fairway. I drilled a hole through it and then used a screw extractor 

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-Metal-Double-ended-Set-Screw-Extractor/1000170531?store_code=681&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-ggl-_-LIA_TOL_215_Power-Tool-Accessories-_-1000170531-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W_5H8ko4EZCFl7SnqJxib4ja&gbraid=0AAAAAD2B2W_5H8ko4EZCFl7SnqJxib4ja&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4-hBhCtARIsAC9gR3Zxx--OB_qA4Ne98yundr_aOFzvHGT3hBOwhxuqnqJTcZsqAwFD2awaAqrNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I just went on Amazon and bought the screw extractor. Thank you for the tip.

[dgmusae]

7 minutes ago, Masse1369 said:

You can try a T25 torx bit and see if it catches and you can get it out with some heat.  If it's past that point, get a screw extractor and they even make some sort of liquid that helps it adhere and you will be able to get it out.  You will just need to heat it up.  If you can't get it done, you can send it to me and I will do it for free, just pay for return shipping.

T25 doesn't work. Basically it is to a point where there is no angle for any grip. I just ordered a screw extractor. If I fail, I will send you a message. Thank you for the offer!

[SE Gamer]

8 minutes ago, dgmusae said:

T25 doesn't work. Basically it is to a point where there is no angle for any grip. I just ordered a screw extractor. If I fail, I will send you a message. Thank you for the offer!

 

Very nice of @Masse1369 to offer to handle this for you. Good luck with the screw extractor. They can be hit or miss.

 

Would suggest trying it on a comparable screw first as a test run (or two) to get a feel for using it. 

[Ri_Redneck]

That weight has the pin in the center (torx safety), so the torx bit needs a hole in the center. It looks like a standard torx was used and it didn't go in deep enough and chewed the socket up. OP, you didn't use a drill with that bit in it did you??? 

 

Personally, I break the little point off the center so I don't have to deal with it. A screwdriver and light hammer taps will break it off. Then, heat with a Bic lighter for 10-15 secs and screw it out. If you try to drill it with a hand drill there's a good chance you will slip an F U! BE CAREFUL!!

 

BT

[dgmusae]

2 minutes ago, Ri_Redneck said:

That weight has the pin in the center (torx safety), so the torx bit needs a hole in the center. It looks like a standard torx was used and it didn't go in deep enough and chewed the socket up. OP, you didn't use a drill with that bit in it did you??? 

 

Personally, I break the little point off the center so I don't have to deal with it. A screwdriver and light hammer taps will break it off. Then, heat with a Bic lighter for 10-15 secs and screw it out. If you try to drill it with a hand drill there's a good chance you will slip an F U! BE CAREFUL!!

 

BT

I did use the torx bit with the hole in it. Maybe like you said, it didn't go deep enough. I didn't use hand drill.

I wish I knew I could break the  center point thing first... a lesson learned.

[Ger21]

5 hours ago, SE Gamer said:

Although isn't blue supposed to be removed without heat?

Yes, it is.

[Masse1369]

5 hours ago, dgmusae said:

I did use the torx bit with the hole in it. Maybe like you said, it didn't go deep enough. I didn't use hand drill.

I wish I knew I could break the  center point thing first... a lesson learned.

 

When you get the screw extractor, make sure you use the drill part to go deeper than you think, then flip it (the extractor) over and it should pop right out with minimal force.  Throw a heat gun, hair dryer or something on it before you try to extract but after you drill the pilot hole.  Heat gun maybe 10-15 seconds, hair dryer maybe 30 seconds and a butane or propane torch maybe 3-5 seconds. Watch YouTube for the extractor if you haven't used one before. I had to recently drill out one in a door lock that was blocked by the knob in some door from the 60s or 70s.  DE ZASTER. 😅

[Ri_Redneck]

Regardless of what thread-locker they use, heat is almost always required. As mentioned above, 3-5 seconds with a flame is all it takes. I use my cigar torch.

 

BT

[SE Gamer]

57 minutes ago, Ri_Redneck said:

Regardless of what thread-locker they use, heat is almost always required. As mentioned above, 3-5 seconds with a flame is all it takes. I use my cigar torch.

 

BT

 

Yeah, with blue loctite, I don't think that heat will ever hurt. I'm just a little surprised it'd be necessary in this scenario. I mean, how much torque are they putting on these screws at the factory??? 

I've used blue loctite on scope/optic mounts, rails, and other gun parts. With similar fasteners torqued to (presumably) much higher values than they would for a weight screw on a golf club. And can't recall any instances where I've needed heat.

[Ri_Redneck]

5 minutes ago, SE Gamer said:

 

Yeah, with blue loctite, I don't think that heat will ever hurt. I'm just a little surprised it'd be necessary in this scenario. I mean, how much torque are they putting on these screws at the factory??? 

I've used blue loctite on scope/optic mounts, rails, and other gun parts. With similar fasteners torqued to (presumably) much higher values than they would for a weight screw on a golf club. And can't recall any instances where I've needed heat.

You have to remember, most consumers of golf clubs will play the club for 5-6 years, never even realizing there's a weight there, and when it comes out they file a claim for a complete new club! Thus, they put them in so they don't come out very easy.

 

BT

[dgmusae]

I got it out! Thank you guys for all your advise. 

It was little nerve racking experience.

Here is what I did.

 

1. Drill a bigger hole through the weight so that the extractor tip could fit.

2. Follow step one with the extractor.

3. Use heat gun for about 5 sec.

4. Use the other end of extractor to take the weight out. It needed a lot more torque than I expected. 

 

As you can see there was a lot of blue loctite.

Screw weight was about 1 gram. 

The head weight of this 3 Wood is 201.4 gram without the screw (not including the shaft tip).

Thanks again!

 

Eddie

 

 

 

Edited March 31 by dgmusae

[Sean124]