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Anyone have experience with this chop saw from Harbor Freight and graphite shaft cuts?? Mine are not cutting clean!!!


quizzylish

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I purchased this saw recently to do some assemblies of graphite shafts and iron builds.  I cut the metal iron shafts very nicely and easily but when I went to do the graphite shaft I had some significant tear out and splintering of the fibers.  I thought maybe I went too fast so I went more slowly and the cut was more clean but had some it seemed to not give a clean cut.  I suppose I could just sand the edge a little to clean it up.  I had previously been using a dremel for cuting graphite which can give a really clean cut but it can be hard to control because of the high RPM's and small cutting wheel.  I have to make several passes and the cut is all jagged.  

 

I bought the only 6" wheel they have at HF and its rated for 10,000 rpms and states for metal use.  This saw has a max speed of 5,000 rpms.  I wonder if the wheel isn't completely flat and maybe causing some tearout easily.  It appears to waver a littel when spinning it manually.  

 

What is the best method people have found 

61204_W3.jpg

Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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The stock wheel blade is crap. Replace that. Also always use masking tape on cut area, prevent fraying as cwebb recommends

 

I always cut a steel shaft after a graphite cut. Helps to keep blade clean from embedded graphite - but that's just me

 

Other than that it's a good cheap tool to use, better than hand saw

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I have what you have. Bought used
get a Composite blade.
You will be sanding as you are cutting

Heat is not your friend.
Bump the saw bade into the shaft.
Make a shallow mark. Do it like you are starting to use a hand saw.
cut 1/8 inch then stop cutting let blade cool.
Cut 1/4. Wait then cut the rest.
DO NO USE METAL BLADES!

Edited by BREWMASTER95060
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You should use a grit edge blade for graphite and cut slow.

 

BT

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On 2/20/2024 at 3:30 PM, SwingBlues said:

The stock wheel blade is crap. Replace that. Also always use masking tape on cut area, prevent fraying as cwebb recommends

 

I always cut a steel shaft after a graphite cut. Helps to keep blade clean from embedded graphite - but that's just me

 

Other than that it's a good cheap tool to use, better than hand saw

It didn't come with a blade.  All they had for 6 inch was a metal cutting abrasive blade.  The masking tape did help.  Still had some excess where it seems to just push over some excess skin.  I just hand sanded that off with a foam sanding block.    

 

Here is what I bought to use.  It should work fine, right?  It's an abrasive blade.  

 

Interesting to keep the blade clean......I like that idea!!

58992_W3.jpg

Edited by quizzylish
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Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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23 hours ago, BREWMASTER95060 said:

I have what you have. Bought used
get a compost blade.
You will be sanding as you are cutting

Heat is not your friend.
Bump the saw bade into the shaft.
Make a shallow mark. Do it like you are using a hand saw.
cut 1/8 inch then stop cutting let blade cool.
Cut 1/4. Wait then cut the rest.
DO NO USE METAL BLADES!

 

 

Thanks for commenting.  What is a compost blade exactly?  This is an abrasive blade but it is for metal.  

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Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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I use a similar $cheap chop saw to rough cut to length, then use my $cheap combo 1” belt sander and disc to grind to exact length.

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Mine cuts great. I also use masking or painters tape as others mentioned. 

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1 hour ago, BREWMASTER95060 said:

 That’s a alternate spelling for composite harbor freight about 15 minutes from my house.

866F2872-BB03-4EF2-B09C-CB2784EB9005.png.4ccd23cb57f749c640df5343f535a7d4.png

2F20B6EF-F501-4976-8CF0-E5EEDCAA0903.png.866a106e407156519ffcf1268edac7a3.png

Gotcha.   I figured that’s what it was when I looked into it a little further.  

Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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On 2/20/2024 at 11:40 AM, quizzylish said:

I purchased this saw recently to do some assemblies of graphite shafts and iron builds.  I cut the metal iron shafts very nicely and easily but when I went to do the graphite shaft I had some significant tear out and splintering of the fibers.  I thought maybe I went too fast so I went more slowly and the cut was more clean but had some it seemed to not give a clean cut.  I suppose I could just sand the edge a little to clean it up.  I had previously been using a dremel for cuting graphite which can give a really clean cut but it can be hard to control because of the high RPM's and small cutting wheel.  I have to make several passes and the cut is all jagged.  

 

I bought the only 6" wheel they have at HF and its rated for 10,000 rpms and states for metal use.  This saw has a max speed of 5,000 rpms.  I wonder if the wheel isn't completely flat and maybe causing some tearout easily.  It appears to waver a littel when spinning it manually.  

 

What is the best method people have found 

61204_W3.jpg

Not all blades are good right out of the box and some blades are total junk. Make sure it is properly fastened in the saw and that the blade is not warped.  A warped blade is junk.  I would suggest you cut some steel with it.  That will get rid of the surface layer.  Believe it or not, cutting steel cleans up the abrasive disk and it will cut composites (like graphite) better.  The saw (unless it has a bad bearing) shouldn't be your problem.

 

The "advice" about cutting a little and letting the blade cool down is bad advice.  A disk like this can cut all day long, almost uninterrupted until the blade is worn away, without any issues.  Let the blade do the work and don't force it through the material.  You should be able to cut as fast as the disk eats away the material, which is damn fast.

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Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
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5 hours ago, Socrates said:

Not all blades are good right out of the box and some blades are total junk. Make sure it is properly fastened in the saw and that the blade is not warped.  A warped blade is junk.  I would suggest you cut some steel with it.  That will get rid of the surface layer.  Believe it or not, cutting steel cleans up the abrasive disk and it will cut composites (like graphite) better.  The saw (unless it has a bad bearing) shouldn't be your problem.

 

The "advice" about cutting a little and letting the blade cool down is bad advice.  A disk like this can cut all day long, almost uninterrupted until the blade is worn away, without any issues.  Let the blade do the work and don't force it through the material.  You should be able to cut as fast as the disk eats away the material, which is damn fast.

Thanks.  Yeah.  I’ll switch to a straight blade without any warp and see if that makes a difference.  Hopefully not the whole package is warped.  
 

thanks for tip on cleaning the blade.  I’ll be sure to keep a spare steel shaft to keep it clean.  
 

how often do you “clean” the blade? 

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Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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1 hour ago, quizzylish said:

Thanks.  Yeah.  I’ll switch to a straight blade without any warp and see if that makes a difference.  Hopefully not the whole package is warped.  
 

thanks for tip on cleaning the blade.  I’ll be sure to keep a spare steel shaft to keep it clean.  
 

how often do you “clean” the blade? 

It really depends on what you are cutting.  Back in the day there were a lot of shafts that had dubious compositions and you would notice that it would cut slowly after a few hundred shafts.  These days the shafts are much better so I don't feel the need to clean the disk too often.  But I do occasionally.  I also do it when I put on a new disk.  Also after I've cut something like aluminum or plastics which gum up the disk edge.

 

One word of advice on cutting disks.  ALWAYS run them up to full speed after installation and run them for 15-30 seconds or so just to make sure they don't fly apart at high rpms.

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Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-MetalMax-Diamond-Grit-6-in-Cutting-Wheel-Accessory/1003021050

 

I bought this wheel from Lowes to put on my HF chop saw and it's worked very well for both steel and graphite.  Not cheap though.  

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2 hours ago, shellbmb said:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-MetalMax-Diamond-Grit-6-in-Cutting-Wheel-Accessory/1003021050

 

I bought this wheel from Lowes to put on my HF chop saw and it's worked very well for both steel and graphite.  Not cheap though.  

This is actually exactly what I do and is absolutely the best method I have found. Using a rubber clamp made for the but off shafts and this blade/saw combo is perfect. 
 

i don’t like cutting expensive carbon fiber (not graphite) with a crud blade. This one will cut perfect for a loooong time. 

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On a whim, I took my Flex Attachment for my Dremel and clamped it in my GW Quick Club shaft vice and hung my shop vac hose beneath it. I use the bar the vac was hanging on as a rest while holding the shaft and rotating it into the blade. Nice clean cut and all dust was sucked away. Don't know why I didn't try that before.

 

BT

 

 

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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On 2/25/2024 at 6:01 PM, TheShark1 said:

I’ve got this saw in my basement from HF. If you get a good blade for it the cuts come out very clean. If you use a junk blade, you get wobble, frayed cuts, and just poor results. Once I upgraded to a good blade this saw has worked perfectly. 

Where did you get a good blade from.  I see a Diablo blade at Ace.  I'm wondering if I have a bad saw.  As I manually turn the blade with the saw off, I can see the blade shift slightly as it turns 180 degrees from the start.  I feel there is a problem with the saw itself as the blade lays perfectly flat and It feels wobbly when its running.  

Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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1 hour ago, quizzylish said:

Where did you get a good blade from.  I see a Diablo blade at Ace.  I'm wondering if I have a bad saw.  As I manually turn the blade with the saw off, I can see the blade shift slightly as it turns 180 degrees from the start.  I feel there is a problem with the saw itself as the blade lays perfectly flat and It feels wobbly when its running.  

Return the saw and get another one.  The arbor should be solid with absolutely no play in it.

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Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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So here are my cuts with a brand new saw, and a new blade there is a little bit of movement in it, but not as much as the first one so it seems like it’s been pretty evenly and each cut was made once with tape and once without tape, and very slowly.  
 

If I don’t go slow, it will definitely tear out and I’ll see some fiber splinter off.

 

This is what I was seeing first time around where it kinda just has a skin of graphite that I have to sand off.  
 

Is this normal or should I go back to gradual cuts with my Dremel?

IMG_0961.jpeg

IMG_0962.jpeg

IMG_0963.jpeg

IMG_0965.jpeg

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Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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Actually my next and final move will be to buy a better blade and see if it’s the blade 

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Driver: Ping G410 LST, 9 degree, VA Composites Raijin Black 65 X

3 Wood: Sim Tour Issue, 14.5 degree, VA Composites Synystr 75 X

Utility: Ping iCrossover 3 iron, GD 95X 

Irons: Srixon ZX5/ZX7 Combo, TT X100

Wedges: Vokey 54/58, S300

Putter:  Lajosi, Bellum Winnmore, or Scotty 5.5......We'll see who wins!! 

Ball: Titleist ProV1

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5 hours ago, quizzylish said:

Actually my next and final move will be to buy a better blade and see if it’s the blade 

Get a better blade.  That's my vote.  If I had to guess, the blade is too fine or too thin.  Too thin will deflect as you cut.  Best blade I have ever used is 1/8" thick and designed for metal.  Dronco AS30T

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Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45"

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 52º cc, SM4 56°, SM4 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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On 2/25/2024 at 4:35 PM, Ri_Redneck said:

On a whim, I took my Flex Attachment for my Dremel and clamped it in my GW Quick Club shaft vice and hung my shop vac hose beneath it. I use the bar the vac was hanging on as a rest while holding the shaft and rotating it into the blade. Nice clean cut and all dust was sucked away. Don't know why I didn't try that before.

 

BT

 

 


What is the flex attachment for a Dremel?

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4 hours ago, e-man said:


What is the flex attachment for a Dremel?

Amazon Link.

 

BT

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Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Mizuno MP15 4-PW - Aldila RIP Tour 115 R
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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The blades are not junk.....they are just too thin a kerf for what we are doing here.  The stock blade kerf in the HF mini chop is 1/16" thick/wide.   A thin cutting wheel will always deflect when too much pressure is applied. The  bonded compound grit wheels are not the best blade for Graphite anyways. They cut rough and the grit fills up with resin over time . For steel shafts they work great.   Quite a few places sell 3/16" - 1/4" thick/wide cutting wheels that will work great on the Harbor Freight mini 6" chop saw.   They work perfect, and you can also do a light finesse grind by touching the tip or butt on the side of the wheel. Keep in mind that a wider kerf wheel will cut a little slower than a thin kerk on this mini chop due to its lack of power.

 

For graphite and Iron shafts, get a Lennox blade out of Lowes. I use these every day at work.  I also use them on a converted  Ryobi table top tile saw for cutting all my shafts. As a precaution, I always tightly tape graphite shafts before making any cuts as it does help somewhat with the inadvertent tear out.

 

 

lennox.JPG

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      Trace Crowe - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Jimmy Walker - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Daniel Berger - WITB(very mini) - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Chesson Hadley - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Callum McNeill - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Rhein Gibson - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Patrick Fishburn - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Peter Malnati - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Raul Pereda - WITB - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Gary Woodland WITB (New driver, iron shafts) – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Padraig Harrington WITB – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Tom Hoge's custom Cameron - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Piretti putters - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Ping putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Kevin Dougherty's custom Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Bettinardi putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Cameron putter - 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Erik Barnes testing an all-black Axis1 putter – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
      Tony Finau's new driver shaft – 2024 Texas Children's Houston Open
       
       
       
       
       
      • 13 replies

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