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Cleveland hosel bore depth issue


schaperb90

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So I got 4 new Cleveland wedges earlier this winter and reshafted the 3 of them that came with spinners. The 4th (my 46°) came with a KBS shaft that I was interested in trying so I left it in alone until now. Anyway, I pulled the shaft this am and was getting ready to install my usual x100, and I noticed it's bore depth is a little over a 1/4" deeper than all 3 of my other wedges. I find this very odd. I called Cleveland and they were no help, so here I am. Anyone run into this before? Is there anything I can do to bridge the gap? If I do shim it higher or use the ferrule as a stopper to get correct install depth, will this make the club feel funny? Any help appreciated. 

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Go ahead and install it as normal. That .25” isn’t going to affect how it plays.

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Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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19 hours ago, schaperb90 said:

So I got 4 new Cleveland wedges earlier this winter and reshafted the 3 of them that came with spinners. The 4th (my 46°) came with a KBS shaft that I was interested in trying so I left it in alone until now. Anyway, I pulled the shaft this am and was getting ready to install my usual x100, and I noticed it's bore depth is a little over a 1/4" deeper than all 3 of my other wedges. I find this very odd. I called Cleveland and they were no help, so here I am. Anyone run into this before? Is there anything I can do to bridge the gap? If I do shim it higher or use the ferrule as a stopper to get correct install depth, will this make the club feel funny? Any help appreciated. 

 

Don't worry about the bore depth, it's really not all that important.   How the club and shaft will play is much more about the BBGM - the distance from the bottom of the bore to the ground - not the bore depth.    Basically stick the shaft in all the way and see how the playing length is different.   

 

Secondly, for wedges most ams wouldn't be able to notice the difference even if the BBGM was different by 1/4" - just make sure you get the desired playing length (and swing weight) correct and you should be fine.  I doubt it would bother most pros as well.    

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, AmateurAmateur said:

That's the zipcore tech they have in the hosel. Took me forever to drill it and clean it out. 

 

I don't understand. Why would the zipcore be so different on only one wedge? I'm at the bottom of the bore on all of them. 

 

5 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Don't worry about the bore depth, it's really not all that important.   How the club and shaft will play is much more about the BBGM - the distance from the bottom of the bore to the ground - not the bore depth.    Basically stick the shaft in all the way and see how the playing length is different.   

 

Secondly, for wedges most ams wouldn't be able to notice the difference even if the BBGM was different by 1/4" - just make sure you get the desired playing length (and swing weight) correct and you should be fine.  I doubt it would bother most pros as well.    

 

 

 

 

Well the BBMG is 1/4" lower on the 50° then the rest, so isn't the bore being 1/4" deeper directly correlated to the BBMG? 2 way of saying the same thing? Or am I missing something?

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8 minutes ago, schaperb90 said:

Well the BBMG is 1/4" lower on the 50° then the rest, so isn't the bore being 1/4" deeper directly correlated to the BBMG? 2 way of saying the same thing? Or am I missing something?

 

No - they are two separate measurements.  They are the measurements of two separate sides of the head.  The bore depth is also dependent on the length of the hosel - which can vary a lot in wedges.  @Howard_Jones had a good picture to show the difference better than words.   I'll see if I can find it.

Edited by Stuart_G
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16 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

No - they are two separate measurements.  They are the measurements of two separate sides of the head.  The bore depth is also dependent on the length of the hosel - which can vary a lot in wedges.  @Howard_Jones had a good picture to show the difference better than words.   I'll see if I can find it.

 

So I'm not doubting that can be the case, but what I'm saying is it isn't in mine. Here are some pics. Same length hosel (essentially, and actually the club with the deeper hosel has the shorter hosel), same distance to first step when outside of hosel, and then the first 1/4" deeper when installed because of bore depth. 

PXL_20240228_174746565.jpg

PXL_20240228_174832389.jpg

PXL_20240228_174800751.jpg

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19 minutes ago, schaperb90 said:

 

So I'm not doubting that can be the case, but what I'm saying is it isn't in mine.

 

 

That might be the case.  If it is, the BBGM measurements will validate that - or not.  It's just not something that there is any point in making any assumptions about.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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5 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

That might be the case.  If it is, the BBGM measurements will validate that - or not.  It's just not something that there is any point in making any assumptions about.

 

 

So I dove more into this after looking some stuff up, and the 50° shaft does measure a little over 1/4" shorter when installed, the exact same difference of the bore depth. I'm assuming this validates the the BBTG is in fact different, but only on my 50°.

 

I think my plan will be to set my ferrule to a depth that will match the rest of the clubs, and install not fully seated. Unsure if this will effect playing characteristics or feel, but I guess we will find out. I'll report back someday if it doesn't work out in case anyone else runs into the issue in the future. 

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im not sure why it is like that, but i would NOT shim it UP, it will only cause a larger spill where the tip ends up, and since there is no GW shafts, this club will play like its tip trimmed 2/8", and i would rather use that, then risk a bad fit to the hosel and a possible flying head.

Since i dont know how the hosel looks like down there, but the shaft seems to be able to be fully inserted, i would have installed that shaft like that.

SHAFT - SHAFT IN HOSEL - YOUR CASE SHIMMED UP (Black & Red)
Assuming it IS a 1.50" insert Taper design all the way (the last 6/8")
RED AREAS IS HOSEL SPILL (the last 6/8 will have too much space)

image.png.5b707f6d32a2564681c4d3f55474afb9.png

Edited by Howard_Jones
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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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10 hours ago, schaperb90 said:

I think my plan will be to set my ferrule to a depth that will match the rest of the clubs, and install not fully seated. Unsure if this will effect playing characteristics or feel, but I guess we will find out. I'll report back someday if it doesn't work out in case anyone else runs into the issue in the future. 

 

Just repeating what Howard said in a different way.

 

Blind bore installations (less then full insertion depth) should only be done with parallel tip shafts/hosels, not with taper tip shafts.

 

It's only 1/4".   I'm not trying to be offensive - but it seems to me that you might be getting a bit too obsessive about the wrong things for this build.   Yes, sometimes the little details can matter - but there are also times when they don't.   Knowing when not to be too obsessive about certain details is just as important a skill as knowing when to be.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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3 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Just repeating what Howard said in a different way.

 

Blind bore installations (less then full insertion depth) should only be done with parallel tip shafts/hosels, not with taper tip shafts.

 

It's only 1/4".   I'm not trying to be offensive - but it seems to me that you might be getting a bit too obsessive about the wrong things for this build.   Yes, sometimes the little details can matter - but there are also times when they don't.   Knowing when not to be too obsessive about certain details is just as important a skill as knowing when to be.

 


Thanks Stuart, you nailed it.....but if we absolutly need to, it might be done if we combine it with brass shims like we use for .355 shafts in 0.370 hosel, but it might be a job where you need to adjust (shorten) the arms of the shim if it gets to tight where it ends....been there, done that....but in this case? NOPE, if it is a GW, i would tip trim 3/8" and take advantage of 2/8" deeper insert = equal to 5/8" tip trim or a full shaft stronger. (combined with 3/8" tip trim)

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DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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On 2/29/2024 at 4:25 AM, Stuart_G said:

 

Just repeating what Howard said in a different way.

 

Blind bore installations (less then full insertion depth) should only be done with parallel tip shafts/hosels, not with taper tip shafts.

 

It's only 1/4".   I'm not trying to be offensive - but it seems to me that you might be getting a bit too obsessive about the wrong things for this build.   Yes, sometimes the little details can matter - but there are also times when they don't.   Knowing when not to be too obsessive about certain details is just as important a skill as knowing when to be.

 

 

Sorry for delayed response, I'm not trying to be obsessive about it, it's just an issue I've never come across, and was expecting there to be an easy solution such as shimming it, using the ferrule to not fully seat it, or some other purpose built solution for this kind of situation. It's not that I'm that concerned with the 1/4" in terms of performance, but more so I was in the middle of it, with my clubs already disassembled, and could easily address it now. But if the answer is simple forget it and glue it up, I'm fine with that. 

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