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Help choosing a .355 hybrid shaft.


Mike412

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I’m playing MP 223 with Nippon Modus 115 stiff shafts. I still love the old Cobra Baffler DWS hybrids so I’m experimenting with a 5 iron replacement hybrid. It’s a 26° 5h, and I’m going iron length (probably 1/2” longer than my current 5i) with a heavy shaft. Problem is with the .335 hosel the shaft options are pretty slim. I’m thinking I’m going to ream it to .355T so i can use an iron shaft. So my question is if I go with a graphite iron shaft in the 95 gm range, on a 26° 5hy cut to 4i length, what length/club # model shaft should I go with? Should I purchase a 4i, 5i, or 6i shaft?

 

Btw, I’m not reaming to .370 just because I hate to take that much out of the hosel.

 

I hope that makes sense lol.

 

Edited by Mike412
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pull the shaft and get the head weight , and compare to the numbers provided yesterday on your other thread.  that will help you decide what length.    drilling may not be possible to lighten based on the clubhead.  lead tape is easy to add, so are tip weights.

 

Lots of good graphite shafts , most just have you sand down the tips to meet .355. . But, .335 will be bad to sand to.

 

Nippon NS Pro (like 4 weight classes) would also be a good choice.

 

note:  i recommend you just buy a new component head , and a removable weight to get you to your weight/length.  easier and probably cleaner.  

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Callaway Rogue 12 degree Driver , stiff shaft

3 Maltby Hy , stiff shaft

Maltby KE4 Max 4-GW w/ TT Score S Flex

Maltby MAX Milled Wedges 52 and 56 degrees w/ TT DG 120 S Flex 

Odyssey Stroke Lab Tuttle Putter

(Cobra 5W and 4-5 Hy rotate in for specific courses)

 

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1 hour ago, chasingneil said:

if you ream to .355 then that puts all the .370 hybrid shafts in play if you're comfortable with sanding them down. 


This is exactly the route I would go assuming I was completely committed to the club head. Split the difference… ream the head to .355, taper a .370 hybrid shaft to fit. Opens up a ton of options that aren’t really viable if you go another route. 

 

1 hour ago, Mike412 said:

So my question is if I go with a graphite iron shaft in the 95 gm range, on a 26° 5hy cut to 4i length, what length/club # model shaft should I go with? Should I purchase a 4i, 5i, or 6i shaft?


If you go with a hybrid shaft, you don’t have to worry about the rest. You have your weight figured out and you could butt trim to final length after toying with playing length and head weight. 
 

36 minutes ago, RSLP said:

pull the shaft and get the head weight , and compare to the numbers provided yesterday on your other thread.  that will help you decide what length.


Although there’s no real right answer, if you want the most technically accurate answer (or at least a starting point), this is probably it. There’s still no guarantee that any given iron specific shaft will give you the best results though. 

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As mentioned about head weight and .370 having more options , but there are .355 options to fit if you are trying to make this hybrid an extension to your existing irons…….. id say the Modus 105 steel is now in play since you play Modus 115s, or Nippon 905/850’s but there are other graphite options in .355 like Steelfiber FC 90 stiff or SF i95R, Recoils, MMT, PX Catalyst 80/100 , ….etc


 

 

 

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If you can ream it to .355 then reaming to .370 is not much of a difference. Might as well do that rather than limiting yourself to .355 shafts. Is there enough thickness in the hosel to even go from .335 to .355 to .370?

Callaway Rogue ST Max 10.5°/Xcaliber SL 45 a flex,Callaway Rogue ST Max Heavenwood/Xcaliber FW a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 3h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 ST-H 4h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour TC 5h/Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby KE4 Tour+ 6-G/Xcaliber Rapid Taper a flex, Maltby Max Milled 54° & 58°/Xcaliber Wedge 85 r flex, Mizuno Bettinardi C06

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2 hours ago, Bad9 said:

If you can ream it to .355 then reaming to .370 is not much of a difference. Might as well do that rather than limiting yourself to .355 shafts. Is there enough thickness in the hosel to even go from .335 to .355 to .370?

Wondering the same, .355->.370 is only .015   
 

And .355 shafts can taper to .370 at the top of the hosel, so a straight .355 ream may not work.   

Edited by st1800e
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2 hours ago, Bad9 said:

If you can ream it to .355 then reaming to .370 is not much of a difference. Might as well do that rather than limiting yourself to .355 shafts. Is there enough thickness in the hosel to even go from .335 to .355 to .370?


Honestly, idk. I’m winging this a little, I just like the head much more than any other hybrid out there so I’m trying to make something work. I just wish they would’ve went with anything but .335. My thought on .355 is it will leave some extra material kind of like a chamfer near where the bottom of the hosel bore meets the club head. I just figured since I’m thinning out the hosel it would be best to leave as much material as possible wherever possible. But I’m sure I’m over thinking it haha.

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3 hours ago, Bad9 said:

Is there enough thickness in the hosel to even go from .335 to .355 to .370?


Yes, there’s plenty of room. You could likely ream all the way to .370 without an issue. The difference is about 0.9 mm, so you’re talking less than half a millimeter of material from any area of the hosel bore’s internal diameter. 

 

3 hours ago, st1800e said:

And .355 shafts can taper to .370 at the top of the hosel, so a straight .355 ream may not work.   


Using a graphite hybrid shaft and reaming to .355, you would likely have to sand/prep the tip to get a solid fit anyway.
 

You might run into insertion depth issues with a tapered steel iron shaft (don’t know depth off the top of my head), but I doubt it. Most modern steel shafts have a long enough tapered section that unless insertion depth was unusually deep, it seems unlikely. 
 

37 minutes ago, Mike412 said:

My thought on .355 is it will leave some extra material kind of like a chamfer near where the bottom of the hosel bore meets the club head.

 

You really should be fine either way, but if you want to be certain, check the hostel thickness with a pair of calipers to see how much you have to play with. I would be shocked if even reaming to .370 had any kind of effect at all on the club head’s structural integrity. 

Edited by MFBach
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I searched EBay and it looks like Nippon makes a steel hybrid shaft that is .335 that is Japanese spec called the N.S. Pro Hybrid which is Similar to the 950, but with a stiffer tip that comes in at 100g at a raw length of 41”……… which means when you cut it down to playing length it will be lighter…….. how much, I don’t know, but I have read some of what Howard has posted about the Rifle uncut shaft (which are heavy, but when they are cut to length they are a around average weight for their weight class) 

 

 

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your 5H head should be about 245g (again weigh it)

 

39 steel / 39.5 graphite length for hybrid

 

38 steel / 38.5 graphite  length for irons, need to add around 10g weight (adjust based on what the head weighs)

 

adjust accordingly , maybe calculate the sw of the 6 iron and match that if you build it to iron length (not a perfect solution, but good for a 1st build)

Callaway Rogue 12 degree Driver , stiff shaft

3 Maltby Hy , stiff shaft

Maltby KE4 Max 4-GW w/ TT Score S Flex

Maltby MAX Milled Wedges 52 and 56 degrees w/ TT DG 120 S Flex 

Odyssey Stroke Lab Tuttle Putter

(Cobra 5W and 4-5 Hy rotate in for specific courses)

 

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I have sanded .370" shafts to fit .355" for years and never had a problem. Its much easier than reaming and you're not losing much material / tip strength. I have been using a Hzrdus Black RDX .370 100g 6.5 in my 5i & 6i.

 

The only shaft i DO NOT recommend sanding is the Nippon GOST. The graphite layer is insanely thin and even a rough tip prepping or a tight ferrule can make it split. Shaft is fine since its steel underneath, but it will split.

TaylorMade Qi10 LS 9° w/ PX HZRDUS Gen4 Black 75 6.0

TaylorMade SIM ROCKET 14.5° w/ PX Handcrafted EvenFlow Black 75 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 3-19° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 4-22° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

Srixon ZU85 5 26° w/ PX RDX Smoke 100 6.5

Srixon ZX7 6-PW w/ Nippon Modus Tour125 X

Cleveland 588 RTX 52° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Srixon WG-706 56° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Scotty Cameron SSS Circle T Newport Beach w/ UST Frequency Filter

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I found this guide on GolfWorks. I’ll still weigh to verify, but if i decided to go with a .335 shaft, are any going to allow for likely 5” of tip trimming? I found a supposed TT GS95 steel wood shaft in .335 brand new on ebay that would be perfect but can’t find any information it anywhere.

 

IMG-0883.jpg

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I think you are better off with the Nippon .335 hybrid shaft, it’s cheaper and it’s not going to be as much to cut from the butt. 
 

The wood shaft, you might be able to trim an inch maybe, but you’d have to cut so much off the butt, you might get below the .580 or .600 handle …. I would assume, I’m not a club builder, but the raw shaft is 44 inches, so 1 inch from the tip (if it even allows for that) gets you 43 inches, then you’d have to cut 6 inches or more from the butt to get close to 38 inches playing length 

 

The Nippon is 100g at 41, so you tip trim it an inch (if it allows for that) then you only need to cut around 3 inches instead of 6 inches like you would the shaft specifically for a wood. 

 

chances are the Nippon will play closer to 90g after it’s cut, and the GS95 wood shaft will weigh closer to 80g ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 
 

 

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5 hours ago, Mike412 said:


I would love to give that S2S Black stiff a try. Any idea where I could buy one?

I found this on eBay…. 

 

and here is the eBay link 

 

if the link doesn’t work, type in Nippon 950FW in your search 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/355343485477?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iuksuhboqtq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rF8GYnK6Tti&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

 

BE6C629F-D871-470F-A341-64999DDEE527.jpeg

Edited by Drivingrangehero
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53 minutes ago, Drivingrangehero said:

I found this on eBay…. 

 

and here is the eBay link 

 

if the link doesn’t work, type in Nippon 950FW in your search 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/355343485477?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iuksuhboqtq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rF8GYnK6Tti&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

 

BE6C629F-D871-470F-A341-64999DDEE527.jpeg


Thank you for your effort. Unfortunately that one is in Japan as well.

 

I’ve decided to put this project on the back burner until I can get my clubmaking area set back up after my move. I just grabbed a Srixon ZX MKII 5H from 2nd Swng with an 80gm shaft and isn’t super long. It should suffice for a while.

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