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Making A Simple Block Putter


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I like my Edel Brick putter a decent amount but still feel like it could be refined more to fit my personal needs. I love the shape, but it is rather long heel-to-toe and I like the shaft set in the right in the middle of the blade(face-to-rear). I am very adept at striking the center of the putter(any putter for that matter) but sometimes lose sense of face angle and path, so I’m gonna create my own “brick” putter.

 

Gonna start with a simple 304 stainless square bar, 1-1/4”. Putter blade will be 2.5” long(mini). I plan to camber the sole to allow for a nice glide, and will mill/drill out ports for USGA regulatory reasons, as well as weight reduction. I think the added face height will make strikes feel more pure, as most putters are 1” tall or less, but a golf ball center is roughly 0.84” off the ground. 
 

I will post pics when finished. 

Edited by A.Princey
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TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, MattM97 said:

The spirit ghost of Opinder lives on. But you're more handy it seems. 

Nah, his hare brained ideas were way beyond me! Not mention his lovely writing prowess, lol 😆 

 

My idea is nothing spectacular, just imagine an Edel brick from the top, but roughly 40% shorter blade length, and 25% taller face. I plan to forgo alignment aids so this will basically be a plain Jane stainless block, with some camber sole shaping. Getting the weight down will be the hardest part. Going for a NC Stubby style/vibe.

 

 

Edited by A.Princey
  • Like 1

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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1 minute ago, Soloman1 said:

if you’re going to bore to set the shaft, that might be enough weight reduction. without the bore you’ll be about 404 grams, before you subtract the material from the camber. maybe 385 after camber?

Yeah, I did a basic volume calc earlier, with my dimensions, and you are right. 
 

 

  • Like 1

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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Posted (edited)

For some reason, having a smaller, more minimalist sight picture at the ball will make me focus more and be able to “zone” in better. A lot of times I feel myself shifting my view from the putter head to the face and then to the ball and then back to the sight line. 

 

I actually practiced the idea using the heel half of my Edel brick(which has a drawn-on black slight line) and alignment was very easy and ball start line was very on direction.  

Edited by A.Princey

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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4 minutes ago, Soloman1 said:

the added height is also raising the cg. it may not give you the feel you expect.

 

you can test they by using an existing putter and adding weight to the top and feel the difference.

generally, a lower cg head tracks better.

I tend to hit most putters 1/8” above center and feel suffers currently. “Crown” contact on putters feels like crap, so I definitely understand that horrible feel. I “glide” my putter along the green somewhat(not dragging, mind you) and only if I hit a putt on the upstroke will I contact flush and center. To accomplish this I usually address the ball about 1-1.5” behind the ball. 

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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2 minutes ago, A.Princey said:

For some reason, having a smaller, more minimalist sight picture at the ball will make me focus more and be able to “zone” in better. A lot of times I feel myself shifting my view from the putter head to the face and then to the ball and then back to the sigh line. 

 

I actually practiced the idea using the heel half of my Edel brick(which has a drawn-on black slight line) and alignment was very easy and ball start line was very on direction.  

 

alignment lines, sight pictures and whether more or less focus is better is such an individual thing, that the universe may not be big enough to hold all the ideas on it. 🙂

 

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i don’t need no stinkin’ shift key

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1 minute ago, A.Princey said:

I tend to hit most putters 1/8” above center and feel suffers currently. “Crown” contact on putters feels like crap, so I definitely understand that horrible feel. I “glide” my putter along the green somewhat(not dragging, mind you) and only if I hit a putt on the upstroke will I contact flush and center. To accomplish this I usually address the ball about 1-1.5” behind the ball. 

 

you're adding loft and increasing bounce and skid distance before true roll with what you just described. i won't do the deep dive here, but elite putters are more flat through impact. thinking that contact on the up stroke is adding "top spin" feel is fundamentally flawed.

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i don’t need no stinkin’ shift key

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10 minutes ago, Soloman1 said:

 

you're adding loft and increasing bounce and skid distance before true roll with what you just described. i won't do the deep dive here, but elite putters are more flat through impact. thinking that contact on the up stroke is adding "top spin" feel is fundamentally flawed.

Yeah, I get you. But distance and skidding isn’t what I really need to address. I want pure, buttery feel coupled with a minimalist sight picture. The compact shape will give me 90* corners/angles and perpendicular edges very close to the ball, basically alignment aids in and of themselves. As I said before, my eyes seem to wander around the putting area at times when standing over the ball. Maybe this will be a huge fail, never know. I’ll always have other putters to fall back on. 

  • Like 2

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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I think that making your own is an awesome endeavor.  I'm just going to ask questions that I am sure others are curious about, as well.

Why 304 SS?  It is much more temperamental to machine than 303 and the cost difference would be minimal, on the block you are using as a base.  Time has taught me that if I have access to 303, go that route.  Is there thinking that you have that I am missing.   It is 100% possible that I am missing a detail that you are not.

Weight?  Here is a link to a site that I use often for base weight assistance. 

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/weight-calculator

Quick link to convert to grams:  https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=convert+from+lbs+to+grams

According to that, I am getting a block weight of about 505 grams.  I know that radius and some camber on the sole will eliminate some.   Milling both faces at 3-4* will also shave off some, and also, boring for a shaft to be inserted at the desired angle will probably remove 8-10 grams, as well.  Weight and metal are a funny thing.  When you are seeking to change a shape and eliminate the very minimum of weight.....POOF, it disappears like water off a duck's back.  But, when you are trying hard to grind, sand or mill weight off of a block, it always seems to give the fight of its life.

I say do this and enjoy the creative part.  Make something that every time you remove it to putt, you remember the process and take a great amount of pride in it.

My thoughts are just input from the peanut gallery and questions that popped into my head.

Pix are always appreciated and I wish you an amazing amount of success.

 

Thanks for taking the WRX members along on this ride.

 

LaMont in AZ

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I decided to go for a blade length of 2-1/4”, and the initial weight was 458g, I chamfered the sole corners on the toe and heel at 45* at 1/4”, this brought the weight down to 426g. I am in the process of asking local machine shops if they will run a few 1/4” deep slots on the toe, heel, and rear of the putter to remove 60-70g more material. I imagine my softening of the sole edges, especially the face-sole edge, will remove 10-15g alone. 

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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Posted (edited)
On 4/21/2024 at 10:02 PM, golfluvzme said:

I think that making your own is an awesome endeavor.  I'm just going to ask questions that I am sure others are curious about, as well.

Why 304 SS?  It is much more temperamental to machine than 303 and the cost difference would be minimal, on the block you are using as a base.  Time has taught me that if I have access to 303, go that route.  Is there thinking that you have that I am missing.   It is 100% possible that I am missing a detail that you are not.

Weight?  Here is a link to a site that I use often for base weight assistance. 

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/weight-calculator

Quick link to convert to grams:  https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=convert+from+lbs+to+grams

According to that, I am getting a block weight of about 505 grams.  I know that radius and some camber on the sole will eliminate some.   Milling both faces at 3-4* will also shave off some, and also, boring for a shaft to be inserted at the desired angle will probably remove 8-10 grams, as well.  Weight and metal are a funny thing.  When you are seeking to change a shape and eliminate the very minimum of weight.....POOF, it disappears like water off a duck's back.  But, when you are trying hard to grind, sand or mill weight off of a block, it always seems to give the fight of its life.

I say do this and enjoy the creative part.  Make something that every time you remove it to putt, you remember the process and take a great amount of pride in it.

My thoughts are just input from the peanut gallery and questions that popped into my head.

Pix are always appreciated and I wish you an amazing amount of success.

 

Thanks for taking the WRX members along on this ride.

 

LaMont in AZ

As for 303 vs 304, I couldn’t find 303 billets/square bar stock? Not sure why, but my online searches only drummed up 304 and various carbon steel varieties. Hmmmm???

 

It’s quite possible my need for an exact 1.25” square piece was the limiting factor in my failure to source

303. Also, that particular size makes my “machining” needs very minimal, as it matches my finished dimensions almost perfectly.

Edited by A.Princey

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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9 hours ago, A.Princey said:

As for 303 vs 304, I couldn’t find 303 billets/square bar stock? Not sure why, but my online searches only drummed up 304 and various carbon steel varieties. Hmmmm???

 

It’s quite possible my need for an exact 1.25” square piece was the limiting factor in my failure to source

303. Also, that particular size makes my “machining” needs very minimal, as it matches my finished dimensions almost perfectly.

Very easy to find in that size. Midwest steel has square and rectangular bar stock in pretty much any dimension you’d need for a putter

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Posted (edited)
25 minutes ago, iteachgolf said:

Very easy to find in that size. Midwest steel has square and rectangular bar stock in pretty much any dimension you’d need for a putter

I just input my 22$ 304 stock size at 6” for 303 and the price on there was like 89$!!! I appreciate the advice though, but I’m cheap!

Edited by A.Princey

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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5 minutes ago, A.Princey said:

I just input my 22$ 304 stock size at 6” for 303 and the price on there was like 89$!!! I appreciate the advice though, but I’m cheap!

And if I’m machining slots in it I’m gonna charge more you double for 304 vs 303. The material is by far the cheapest part.  Drilling/cutting/shaping the two are totally different experiences. Have you tried drilling the hole for shaft yet?

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Hmm, maybe I’ll take my angle grinder and cut a triangular slot the entire width across the back? It will be difficult to control my depth and final vertex, but I could always finesse the surfaces with a slow, soft grind to get a nice, respectable V-slot the entire length of the rear. 

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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Posted (edited)

This will have to tide me over until a former classmate finishes milling out my DIY slots, 😝. Former industrial lathe/CNC machinist who now owns his own CNC shop.  FWIW too, upon handing him the putter head, I reluctantly revealed the material to be machined was 304 stainless. I immediately apologized about its rough milling properties and hardness, after which he immediately stopped me and said, “Whoever told you that??? This will

machine just fine, I’ve used all grades of stainless for my commercial contracts just fine…” He even said that it “was quite soft”. Take that for what you will. 

 

On to the Stubby! This NC thing is pure, and if it’s any indication of how mine will play, my other blades and custom Anser styles should be quivering in fear. I’ve never started putts on line and hit them straighter in my life.

D4142A45-BF31-48F9-BB78-C793B7A82D90.jpeg.62b52ba1ffe56fea3a57d2854037d82d.jpeg

 

Edited by A.Princey
  • Haha 1

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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13 hours ago, A.Princey said:

This will have to tide me over until a former classmate finishes milling out my DIY slots, 😝. Former industrial lathe/CNC machinist who now owns his own CNC shop.  FWIW too, upon handing him the putter head, I reluctantly revealed the material to be machined was 304 stainless. I immediately apologized about its rough milling properties and hardness, after which he immediately stopped me and said, “Whoever told you that??? This will

machine just fine, I’ve used all grades of stainless for my commercial contracts just fine…” He even said that it “was quite soft”. Take that for what you will. 

 

On to the Stubby! This NC thing is pure, and if it’s any indication of how mine will play, my other blades and custom Anser styles should be quivering in fear. I’ve never started putts on line and hit them straighter in my life.

D4142A45-BF31-48F9-BB78-C793B7A82D90.jpeg.62b52ba1ffe56fea3a57d2854037d82d.jpeg

 

304 machines fine on a 30+hp CNC that weighs 10,00lbs.  You made it sound like it was gonna be manually machined on something like a Bridgeport (1.5-3hp).  Completely different animal.  A massive CNC can cut literally anything (304 is still slower than 303).  No where did you say you have access to such machines. I thought this was more of a DIY project, where if a bulk of material removal and I’m assuming loft will be milled on a large CNC we are having a different discussion 

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9 hours ago, Soloman1 said:

might be an optical illusion, but it looks like face to back is longer than heel to toe. doesn’t meet usga/r&a rules.

 

a must be greater than c.

 

image.jpeg.6861fdf898dccbd942df64690e7d7da6.jpeg

Nah, it’s legal. Already a thread on that very putter from like 2010. One that isn’t legal is the pure training aid only, with smooth sides, toe and heel. First iteration I assume. 

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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18 minutes ago, A.Princey said:

Nah, it’s legal. Already a thread on that very putter from like 2010. One that isn’t legal is the pure training aid only, with smooth sides, toe and heel. First iteration I assume. 

 

 

it's 2024.

 

I'm posting this for posterity so others in the future will know that it your comment is incorrect. it is non-conforming.

 

here are the 2020 equipment rules, version 1.2 updated 12/2023.

 

https://www.usga.org/content/dam/usga/pdf/Equipment/Equipment-Rules-2020-v12-edits.pdf

i don’t need no stinkin’ shift key

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It is 1-11/16” deep from face to rear, and 1-12/16” wide from toe to heel.

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, A.Princey said:

It is 1-11/16” deep from face to rear, and 1-12/16” wide from toe to heel.

 

A > C, sides are milled with square slot = conforming. I’m confused???

 

558DB1DD-091D-4D82-844E-8DB8A29C4F4E.jpeg.56fdce53d32ffa6912e4c2faffc8baf8.jpegF184F8C8-7414-4D37-9D7E-0FF3A4797D5B.jpeg.5cf6b5a47d3de18cd823433bbfc77d85.jpeg

Edited by A.Princey

TM 2016 M2 12*(-2 setting) - OG Grafalloy Blue X, 43.5"

TEE XCG7 16.5* 4w, OG Grafalloy Blue S, 41.75"

Wilson D9 18* 4i, KBS Max-R, 39.5”

Cobra King OS 4-G, TT XP95 R300, -.5
Mack Daddy CB 56.14(2* weak)  60.12(3*  weak)

Edel Brick

 

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