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Turning down ferrules


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1 minute ago, jvincent said:

Assuming the outside diameter of the ferrule is pretty close I use a cloth soaked in acetone.

This is the only way I've ever done it. Never had a need to use sandpaper.

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I use 220 grit sandpaper cloth roll strips.  Put tape on the hosel so you don't scratch the hosel.  When it gets close to final size, then it's acetone time.

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2 hours ago, jvincent said:

Assuming the outside diameter of the ferrule is pretty close I use a cloth soaked in acetone.

This is what I did in the recent buildout I did for MGS.  It worked amazing well for BB&F Co. ferrules when done with a clean microfiber cloth (one I wasn't afraid to ruin, of course) and acetone (purchased from Home Depot's paint section).  

 

I have steel shafts in almost all of the family's clubs, so there's less risk w/ acetone, but even with graphite shafts, you can tape off above the ferrules to increase safety and use caution.  I wiped up and down in a vertical motion until I had a smooth edge between the ferrule and hosel of the iron.  Once I did, I immediately switched to a different clean microfiber soaked in rubbing alcohol to stop the dissolving process and to clean off any residue.

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I'm really awful at it tbh. I usually find one with an OD within .005 and call it a day. I never notice it once it's been built and doesn't take away from the club in any way. I have however melted the s*** out of some with acetone and had to re-do the whole build because my OCD just wouldn't stand for it so I tend to err on the side of caution.

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As recommended, tape the hosel and use 220 grit. Take your time, take a little bit, rotate, etc. It is when you get aggressive is when you can ruin a ferrule or scratch the hosel. If want to be more careful, go to a 300 or 400 grit paper, it will just take a bit longer. I have never heard/tried the acetone/cloth method to turn down a ferrule, I will have to give it a try next time. I only work on my clubs.

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As far as I know acetone is just used to polish the ferrule back to a nice surface finish once you've turned it down to match the hosel OD. I always tape the hosel, clamp the shaft in a vise, and use fine grit sandpaper, grabbing it on both ends and sanding the hosel like you'd polish a shoe. Turn the shaft a bit, do the same, turn the shaft a bit, do the same. Then polish it with acetone on a smooth cloth or paper towel. 

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7 minutes ago, TonyRo said:

As far as I know acetone is just used to polish the ferrule back to a nice surface finish once you've turned it down to match the hosel OD. I always tape the hosel, clamp the shaft in a vise, and use fine grit sandpaper, grabbing it on both ends and sanding the hosel like you'd polish a shoe. Turn the shaft a bit, do the same, turn the shaft a bit, do the same. Then polish it with acetone on a smooth cloth or paper towel. 

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

 

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1 hour ago, TonyRo said:

As far as I know acetone is just used to polish the ferrule back to a nice surface finish once you've turned it down to match the hosel OD. I always tape the hosel, clamp the shaft in a vise, and use fine grit sandpaper, grabbing it on both ends and sanding the hosel like you'd polish a shoe. Turn the shaft a bit, do the same, turn the shaft a bit, do the same. Then polish it with acetone on a smooth cloth or paper towel. 

Acetone will actually remove the excess ferrule just as fast, if not faster, than sandpaper.  I won't use anything else for turning ferrules unless I have very sensitive paint fill on the iron hosels or am using a very sensitive graphite shaft made for someone with very low swing speeds.  That's not really anyone in my house (even my wife), so I've never been that worried about it since I learned to do it this way.

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  • Callaway AiSmoke Triple Diamond - 15° 3-wood - Project X Denali 6.5 flex shaft - Set to N/S
  • Taylormade P790 UDI 2 iron (2019) with TI X100 shaft (+5/8")
  • Taylormade P7MC (2020) Irons - 4-9 (Standard L/L) with Tour Issue X100 Shafts at +5/8"
  • Currently Testing: Toura CB (4-PW) - TT X100 shafts at +5/8"
  • Taylormade MG4 48.09SB TI X100 and 52.09SB / 56.12SB / 60.07LBV wedges with DG TI Onyx Black X100 Shafts at +5/8"
  • Golf Pride ZGRIP Plus2 on all clubs
  • Sik DW (2.0) C Series Putter in black finish (36") with Sik Golf Black Pistol
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54 minutes ago, tdeutmeyer said:

There is a You tube video that shows a guy using a sharp utility knife blade and scraping/cutting  the ferrule down to size and then using acetone for the final blend and finish. 

 

This guy?

 

 

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I think I read it on this forum, but I had pretty good success using some drywall sandpaper of medium grit (150-180) as a first pass.  The drywall paper allows you ao bang the plastic out of the paper and keep using it in the rough pass stage.  Then use higher grit normal sandpaper to get it flush and wipe / finish with acetone.

 

I have never been successful with the acetone twirl.

 

But, I now have a belt sander and love it and haven't looked back.

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22 hours ago, tmoney47 said:

I have never been successful with the acetone twirl.

 

The key for this is to make sure the cloth you use is soaked otherwise it sticks to the ferrule.

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16 minutes ago, jvincent said:

 

The key for this is to make sure the cloth you use is soaked otherwise it sticks to the ferrule.

This is what I do with my clubs at home. Just soak the cloth or small towel and spin it for a bit. Once it starts to stick, just put some more acetone and spin some more. Haven’t had one come out bad doing it this way. 

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23 hours ago, tmoney47 said:

I have never been successful with the acetone twirl.

I think the "twirl" is the problem.

Don't spin the shaft/ferrule. Rub the cloth along the hosel. I place the cloth on the hosel, and then rub fast and firmly between the hosel and ferrule. This will quickly take down the high spots on the ferrule. Do one spot, then rotate 30°-45°, and repeat, until you get all the way around. Use a clean spot on your rag often, or when it doesn't seem to be removing anything. If I'm removing a lot of material, I'll leave it a little high all the way around, so I don't accidentally remove too much material in any one spot. Then go back and get it to the final size.

Only once I get it to size, do I do a quick spin to wipe off any excess soft plastic. I then do a quick, very light wipe with a dripping wet rag, to basically just get the whole ferrule wet. This makes  everything perfectly smooth. Then let dry for a minute, and buff with a clean, dry rag. Perfection.

Srixon ZX5 LS MK II 9.5° - Attas 11 70S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 7 wood)

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Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

Maxfli Tour Yellow

Vessel Player III - Iridium

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