What is in "MY" blueprinting iron? Why 5 hrs?

[joey3108]

Here are a "MY" step by step process.

Here are the 5 hrs blueprinting are base on 3 - PW:

Bare in mind that as much as possible the shafts are presorted and checked for CPM consistentcy on my freq machine, eventhough they are supposed to come presorted already from the manufacturer. Brunswick call it Frequency Match!

Let's start from checking the lie and loft that i'm trying to get, because if they are to far apart, it might effect on the swing weight if i bend them after they are done and make sure that the club head are protected at all sides to minimize the bending machine marking( 35-45 minutes ), second pulling the shaft out and clean up the hosel and mark the weight one by one( 45 - 50 minutes ), Check the depth of the hosel to make sure they are consistent to received a new shaft ( 10-15 minutes ), Prep all the shafts tip and put it in the spined finder and mark them one by one ( 20 - 25 minutes ), Measure the shaft one by one on the measuring board to make sure the lenght is exactly at 1/2" increments ( 20 -25 minutes ). weight sort the grips one by one to make sure all 8 grips are the same weight ( 10-15 minutes ), installed the wooden dowel at the same depth from the tip, put on the grips and make sure it line up straight and consistently strecth ( on cord is critical for sizing ), installed ferrules ( all that for 30-40 minutes ), swing weight them one by one and mark them for lead plug adjustment ( 15-20 minutes ), install a lead plug and swing weight them one by one to make sure it's within MY exceptable tolerance of 1/8-1/4 of a point ( 30-40 minutes ), mixed the glue and glue them one by one and make sure the spined position is on the right consistent spot and make sure they have the same amount of glue to maintain a consistent swing weight( 15-20 minutes ), let the glue dried at least 8-10 hrs. Turn the ferrule one by one and shine them up w/ acetone ( 25 - 30 minutes ), Double check the loft and lie ( 15 to 20 minutes ), clean them up w/ car wax from acetone residue ( 10 -15 minutes ). The last part is checking the cpm on the freq machine one by one to make sure nothing extra ordinary that could be unexceptable for me ( 10-15 minutes ).DONE!

So if i calculate on the minimum estimated time, i spend about 4 hrs and 50 minutes assuming i'm not running any trouble, give 20 minutes for trouble solving which require me to call the customer to discuss most of the time. And also not to forgot the time I spend on a fitting phone call trying to figure out what they need mentally and physically.

Call me a meticulous freak, but I can't help it...that is who I am and how I work. And That is how I think a customers expect me to be when they are paying at my rate.

The fastest record i did before was 4hrs 20 minutes for a set belong to a PGA touring pro who were waiting on the spot while i'm working on them which requires me to heat the hosel to speed up the epoxy curing time ( around 1-2 minutes per club ), but it's all worth it and satisfying watching him shot his low round 61 record on TV on the next tournament right after. And Yes, I got a set of tour issue iron from him that wasn't release to the public yet and a big hug for all that trouble.

Again, This is "my" way of doing it!

Regards,

Joe

[gslabbert]

Joe on the lead plug. Are you not creating an iron with a different amount of draw bias by putting a lead plug in the shaft. For example 3 iron needs 3 grams, 4 iron no weight, 5 iron 1.5 grams. Would the toe not turn over fastest with 3 grams of addional weight in the shaft, versus the 4 iron with no weight added.

 

Is this not the same as putting lead on the heel. I know it does not look anywhere near as good but would it not be more precise to put lead tape on the back of the head.

 

I understand the benefits of blueprinting and agree that blueprinted clubs are a huge improvement over off the shelf irons.

 

Lastly how do you deal with irons that have different hosel depths, lets say all the irons hosel depth is 1.25" except one that is 1.33". Do you just insert the shaft to 1.25 or do you put in a plastic spacer ?

 

Thanks for the info ...

 

Gavin

[joey3108]

THe sweet spot move roughly 1/8" for 10 grams adjustment and I almost never put more than 6 gr ( say 1/15" for 6 gr ? ). IF I have one that is very critical and sensitive about this, than i would suggest them to go w/ lead tape evenly on the back of the club.

 

Insertion depht from 1.33" to 1.25" will probably effect only a couple cpm at the most which almost no touring pro can really feel the different. This is very common for newer titleist iron.

 

Joe

[Asleep]

Wow......I'm exhausted just reading all that!

 

Shows why Joe Kwok is the best, though. He does not cut any corners. :birthday:

[gslabbert]

Thanks Joe, I asked because my Titleist 735's come with 1.25" on 3-7 irons and 1.50" for 8,9 and PW.

 

Once again many thanks

 

Gavin

[joey3108]

Thanks Joe, I asked because my Titleist 735's come with 1.25" on 3-7 irons and 1.50" for 8,9 and PW.

 

Once again many thanks

 

Gavin

Yes, I'm aware of that. No problem! :)

 

If one customer really picky about it, then i can shave the tip accordingly to match all the insertion depth consistently.

 

Anything is possible, it's just they are willing to do it or not...right? And do it right off course!

 

 

Joe

[Dyno]

Joe.

 

Great read and great education. Do you do the final freq check with grip on?

[VAN59]

Would the reason the Titleist 735 are like that be they are maybe changing the kick point in the shaft when it is inserted?

[joey3108]

Joe.

 

Great read and great education. Do you do the final freq check with grip on? You probably missed read that part. :)

Definitely, just to make sure!

 

 

 

Would the reason the Titleist 735 are like that be they are maybe changing the kick point in the shaft when it is inserted?

1/8"-1/4" is not gonna effect the kick point that much.

[Johnny]

I really dont care why it takes 5 hours... actually your work is something I would want you to take you time on...if it were my club anyways....no rush Joe ;)

[giogolf]

Hey Joe,

 

Very good read. I was wondering, you said that you install wooden dowels in the tips of the irons rigth? How long are the dowels, are they teh same length as the hosel depth? Do you glue them in place first so they do not float up when you epoxy the shafts? Regarding teh lead plug weigths, do install them on top of the dowels and use a cork or do you glue them inplace?

 

When I reshaft irons, I usualy drop plugs through the grips and then put a cork on top is that ok? Lastly, Why do you use wooden dowels, is it a feel thing or to stop teh exopxy from traveling up the shaft?

 

Lots or Q's, but you are the best I know of.

Thanks, Gio

[joey3108]

Hey Joe,

 

Very good read. I was wondering, you said that you install wooden dowels in the tips of the irons rigth? How long are the dowels, are they teh same length as the hosel depth? Do you glue them in place first so they do not float up when you epoxy the shafts? Regarding teh lead plug weigths, do install them on top of the dowels and use a cork or do you glue them inplace?

 

When I reshaft irons, I usualy drop plugs through the grips and then put a cork on top is that ok? Lastly, Why do you use wooden dowels, is it a feel thing or to stop teh exopxy from traveling up the shaft?

 

Lots or Q's, but you are the best I know of.

Thanks, Gio

Wooden dowel is only 1 1/2" and i leave some room or the weight plug as low as possible to make sure it will not gonna effect the CG.

 

Wooden dwoel will dampen the vibration a bit and will make the feel much more solid and slightly softer at impact.

 

joe

[giogolf]

Wooden dowel is only 1 1/2" and i leave some room or the weight plug as low as possible to make sure it will not gonna effect the CG.

 

Wooden dwoel will dampen the vibration a bit and will make the feel much more solid and slightly softer at impact.

 

joe

 

Check out the Diagram I made (for me to understand), is that what you do? Do you glue them into place first before inserting the shaft into the hosel? How do you keep the Plug and Dowel from sliding up when you insert the shaft inside with the epoxy? How do you measure how much epoxy you use per shaft so that you do not increase teh swing weigth?

 

I know I have a lot of questions, if you would prefer me to call you or stop asking them all together just let me know.

[Asleep]

Nice diagram!

[giogolf]

Nice diagram!

Thanks

[joey3108]

"quote"

Wooden dowel is only 1 1/2" and i leave some room or the weight plug as low as possible to make sure it will not gonna effect the CG.

 

Wooden dwoel will dampen the vibration a bit and will make the feel much more solid and slightly softer at impact.

 

joe

"quote"

 

Check out the Diagram I made (for me to understand), is that what you do? Do you glue them into place first before inserting the shaft into the hosel? How do you keep the Plug and Dowel from sliding up when you insert the shaft inside with the epoxy? How do you measure how much epoxy you use per shaft so that you do not increase teh swing weigth?

 

I know I have a lot of questions, if you would prefer me to call you or stop asking them all together just let me know.

Nope ! that is not what i do or did. The other way around.

 

I placed the dowel basically in the middle of the highest part of the hosel, so it will leave about 1/2" - 3/4" gap or port for the weight plug adjustment by the tip.

 

The dowel on your diagram are to low to the tip area. It should be right in the middle of the ferrule area aproximately.

 

Joe

[headcase59]

I have a set of Wishon 550m's that I would like to place the wooden dowels in. Wishon clubs have a weight port that the plug weights fit into. Does this effect the placement of the dowels? and how do you insert the dowels, how are they secured in the shaft?

 

Thanks

golfkahuna

[joey3108]

I have a set of Wishon 550m's that I would like to place the wooden dowels in. Wishon clubs have a weight port that the plug weights fit into. Does this effect the placement of the dowels? and how do you insert the dowels, how are they secured in the shaft?

 

Thanks

golfkahuna

1. Nope!

 

2. 48" long ram rod

 

3. 24 hr epoxy

[headcase59]

thanks Joe

[headcase59]

I'm finally going to do the wooden dowel thing. Just one question. If you use epoxy doesn't some of it break off and cause the shaft to rattle? What is the right way to epoxy them in?

 

 

Thanks

golfkahuna

[joey3108]

There are no right way or wrong way.

 

If you put enough but not to much and apply it from the tip side, you'll never have any problem.

 

I never had one come back due for epoxy loose rattle.

 

Joe