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What will help me improve my game the most?


pattanabomb
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Driver VS Iron
This year, I will have a chance to buy one new equipment. I'm debating between Titleist 905R drive or a set of 695 (CB or MB) or 735 CM. I'm currently using 983K and Cally X-14 pro. and 2-balls blade putter. I'm trying to reduce my hdcp of 9 to lower number. I know that the real improvement need to be my putting but this year my wife give me a green light to buy one new equipment so I want to buy one. So I want you guy oppinion that which of the two, either driver or iron, will have to most impact on me in term of enjoyment and score.

Thanks

:D :)
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Have you been custom fitted? Seeing a teaching pro and getting custom fitted for either irons or Driver might be the best approach. Maybe wedges or a putter will end up being the way to go...

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that's a loaded question.

 

I guess the question back is this: what's your biggest point where you want to improve: More Fairways or more GIR's? For me, distance isnt too much an issue, and I was hitting a lot of greens when I wasnt in the deep stuff. So the Driver was the one for me. And, by the way, I am getting the R!!!

 

My pro just called to confirm. I get it in 2 weeks.

 

Hope that helps.

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The ability to get the ball closer to the hole, so that you can make more puts will have more of an affect on your score than the 300 yard drive (which is a pipe-dream if you think you can get it by buying a golf club) in my opinion. The series of lessons is the correct answer to the question, or even better a single playing lesson with the emphasis on trouble shooting your round for the answer to your question would be very productive..

 

By the way, what is wrong with the weather in Oregon? I am in Gearhart (Northwest Oregon Coast) and I have been playing every day all winter...

 

I will be happy to give you the playing lesson if you can make it to a course near me..

 

Nicholas

PGA Professional

DiscountDansGolfcom  Highlands Golf Club
DiscountDansGolf.com

Highlands Golf Club
Gearhart, Oregon
1-877-738-5248
[email protected]
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I may get flamed for this approach but its just the way I am. If you are a weak driver of the ball then I think you'll have a lot of mid-long irons into the greens so you better go for the irons. However, based on your handicap I probably say you drive the ball well so even if youre off a little you'll probably still have short irons into the green, no problem there. In my opinion go for the driver, X-14's are plenty good for irons. If I cant get off the tee box it doesnt matter what irons I have in my opinion! Driving and putting are most what determines my score on a given day. For the price of the irons you should ask the wife for the 905R and a new putter which would still be cheaper than the irons!

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Hey there. I'm new to all this and I keep on seeing the letters OEM popping up in a lot of peoples posts. What does it mean? I've got a feeling its going to be something completely simple, and I'm going to end up looking stupid!

Callaway Rogue ST TD LS 10.5* Project X Evenflow Black 65X
Callaway Rogue ST LS 3W 15* Project X Evenflow Blue 75X

Callaway Apex UW 19* Project X Evenflow Black 75X

Callaway Paradym 4 iron MMT 105 TX

Callaway Apex TCB 4-PW KBS C-Taper 120

Callaway Apex TCB AW KBS Tour-V 120

Callaway JAWS Raw 58 KBS Hi-Rev 2.0 125

SIK Pro 34"

Callaway Chrome Soft X

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On normal day

 

Carry distance:

 

Driver, 983K (9.5 deg, 44 in long) = 270 to 280 yd

3W, 975F (13 deg, 43 in long) = 240 to 250 yd

Hybrid, TM Rescue mid (19 deg) = 230 yd

7W, Old TM (21 deg) = 200 yd

Iron, X-14 pro:

#5 = 180 yd

#6 = 170 yd

#7 = 155 yd

#8 = 145 yd

#9 = 135 yd

PW = 115 yd

A = 105 yd

SW = 90 yd

LW = 70 yd

Putter = 3 ft

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Hey there. I'm new to all this and I keep on seeing the letters OEM popping up in a lot of peoples posts. What does it mean? I've got a feeling its going to be something completely simple, and I'm going to end up looking stupid!

 

It's the stock equipment that comes with anything. Like the stock shaft in a driver or the stock grip/headcover.

9° Titleist TSi2 HZRDUS Smoke RDX 60 6.5
15° Titleist TSi2 HZRDUS Smoke RDX 70 6.0
19° PXG 0317 X Gen 2 Fujikura Pro 2.0 HB 85S
22° PXG 0317 X Gen 2 Fujikura Pro 2.0 HB 85S
5-PW Srixon ZX5 Project X LZ 6.5
Artisan Golf 50/54/58 Project X LZ 6.5
Artisan Golf 0418

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I can control my driver pretty well for the most part of the round, might have a couple off tee shots per round. I can hit most of my iron well except #5 and #6.

 

I like the idea of new driver and putter but I just got my 2-ball blade in 2004, I don't think my wife will allow me to get a new one. My contract for each equipment is about 3 to 4 years before I can ask for new one.

 

Thanks for all of the comments.

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Hey there. I'm new to all this and I keep on seeing the letters OEM popping up in a lot of peoples posts. What does it mean? I've got a feeling its going to be something completely simple, and I'm going to end up looking stupid!

 

It's the stock equipment that comes with anything. Like the stock shaft in a driver or the stock grip/headcover.

 

 

Cheers.

Callaway Rogue ST TD LS 10.5* Project X Evenflow Black 65X
Callaway Rogue ST LS 3W 15* Project X Evenflow Blue 75X

Callaway Apex UW 19* Project X Evenflow Black 75X

Callaway Paradym 4 iron MMT 105 TX

Callaway Apex TCB 4-PW KBS C-Taper 120

Callaway Apex TCB AW KBS Tour-V 120

Callaway JAWS Raw 58 KBS Hi-Rev 2.0 125

SIK Pro 34"

Callaway Chrome Soft X

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We're draggin' a little more out of you with each post. First, the 983 is a great driver. You sound like you are fairly confident with it. The 983 was max'd out at the .830 COR. So, going to a 905 won't necessarily assist you that much. Yes, a tad bit more forgiveness... but you've said you probably only miss a couple of fairways a round.

 

You've also said you have a little trouble with your 5 & 6 irons. Carrying only the 5 and down, I'd certainly take a good hard look at them. A new set of irons won't include your wedges. Carrying AW, SW, and LW... are they matches to your X-14's or stand-alones??? So, do you want to spend your "allowance" on 5 through PW?? And, of the sets you've mentioned... 695's and 735's... you will not find the mid irons any easier to hit than the X-14's.

 

May I toss out some additional brainstorming for you to think about? First, you seem to have a mishmash of 975F (not an easy 3 wood to hit), TM Rescue, and old TM 7 wood. Hitting your driver 270 to 280, you can handle par 4's up to 460 with driver 5-iron. First, drop the 975 for a 980F fairway. Much easier to hit and long off the tee. On some of those tight par 4's, you may be able to get 250, or so, with a little more confidence than your 975. Then find a set that gives you a better transition from long to short iron. Get a fitting from a Ping certified fitter. Go with G5's in 3 thru 6 and I5's down to/thru the wedges. (Or some break between highly forgiving in the longer irons and more accuracy in the short irons.) The fitter may recommend I5's in the long irons transitioning to S59's in the short irons.

 

Callaway's X-18's are quite a bit more forgiving than the X-14's. Pick up a set of X-18 Pro Series and you may see the problem with the mid/long irons disappear. Titleist, as much as I love their irons, just don't make a "forgiving" mid/long iron. I love the 690.mb's. But, I don't have the problem with the long irons that some do. (I'll trade you your 280 and missing only 2 fairways!)

 

Another option is the new hybrid craze. There are some great hybrids out there that aren't too expensive. Cleveland's Halo has gotten great reviews. Ping's G5 is another that won't break the bank. If you feel confident about the 6 thru wedges of your current set, spend the allowance on a "group" of hybrids to fill in what would be a 2, 3, 4, and 5 iron. 4 hybrids at $150ea is only $600. Still less than $700 to $800 for a complete set of new irons. (Still leaves you enough for that 980F.)

 

You've probably already considered all the above. And, I'm one to suffer from paralysis from over-analysis. But, the options are great. One last thought... then I'll shut up! After most every round, I set down with a pad and pen. I write the numbers 1 thru 18 down the left hand margin. Then, I replay each hole of the past round in my head. First hole? I missed my 5 iron and it cost me a stroke. I write down 5 iron. Then I go to hole #2. 3-putted. I write down "putter". Once you go through all 18 holes and write down the club that cost you a stroke on each hole (don't write down anything on those birdie or eagle holes) it becomes fairly apparent if there is a "problem" area in your bag. If the driver is the stick that cost you strokes on 4 or 5 holes... But, I bet you'll find it's really those fairways and long irons that actually cost you the most strokes.

 

Good luck!!!!

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In my humble opinion, I would say that fitting a new set of irons would be the better investment in your game. Sure a new driver might get the ball further down the fairway (if hit) but a driver is used what 13 to 14 times a round? That's good for 13-14 strokes with the driver (not including possible OB) with the balance of your scoring coming from irons/wedges and putter. I bought some new irons recently an early on I can tell you they will improve my scores and hit real darts. Good luck in your quest it's a trek.

 

Hit'em Pure,

 

Alex

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Short game, short game short game, work on you 100 yards in and putting. If you get really proficient at that range you will take the pressure off your irons and you will hit them better and closer. Get your current equipment checked and adjusted to your specs, get the correct shaft for your driver and fairway woods. Remember that the COR is at .830 and manufacturers have been up against that number for a few years now and the changing technology IMO is shafts and balls.

 

Then again opinions are like Word not allowedholes, everyone has one and most of them stink. :D

 

Ok, I am going back into my corner for 1 hour for use of bad language ...

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