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R9 Shafts on PGA Tour


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I know that almost all of the shafts that are in the R9 drivers on Tour are painted with the same paint scheme (grip, white, red) But I am wondering what type of shafts the tour guys are actually playing (diamana, ust, oziks fuji etc..)

 

Also, I noticed that TM only offers a few different shafts as 'custom' upgrades in the R9....if one wants another shaft that they do not offer, how hard is it to change the adapter and put it onto another shaft?

 

Last, does anyone know why on the TM website the Fubuki (73 and 83) that they offer as an upgrade has a lower torque and different specs than the specs that are on the actual Mitsubishi website?

 

also Any reviews on the Fubuki (spin, launch, torque etc...)

 

Thanks Guys!

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the fubuki's on offer are 63 and 73 only, there is no 83 available in retail

 

its a great shaft, esp. for driver, low spin high launch, GREAT kick and nice solid feel

 

the adapter itself is just epoxied onto the shaft, you heat it up with a heat gun and its easy to slide off

 

you just glue the other shaft you want into the R9 tip and presto!!! i did it a few times with various shafts, super easy :)

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I think there is a fair share of Mitsu's, Fuji Motore's, VooDoo's, and Ozik's.

TaylorMade Qi10 LS 9° w/ PX HZRDUS Gen4 Black 75 6.0

TaylorMade SIM ROCKET 14.5° w/ PX Handcrafted EvenFlow Black 75 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 3-19° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 4-22° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

Srixon ZU85 5 26° w/ PX RDX Smoke 100 6.5

Srixon ZX7 6-PW w/ Nippon Modus Tour125 X

Cleveland 588 RTX 52° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Srixon WG-706 56° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
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I just got my R9 with a FUBUKI 73 s 44.5" long and it is a monster. It is just as good as my SQ. I will have to see if it will replace my SQ.

 

Wk

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Titleist T200 3 &4 Iron Tensei White HYB Stif

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I have a silly question. To get the best performance from a graphite shaft, I thought all shafts have a spine and the spine should face away from your target. If that is true, and you start turning the shaft on the R9 clockwise and counter clockwise, to change the ball flight. Isn't the spine position going to also change now with the rotation/adjustments? Won't that change the kick and droop of the shaft? Hence making the shaft feel different.

 

Any comments, thoughts??

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I have a silly question. To get the best performance from a graphite shaft, I thought all shafts have a spine and the spine should face away from your target. If that is true, and you start turning the shaft on the R9 clockwise and counter clockwise, to change the ball flight. Isn't the spine position going to also change now with the rotation/adjustments? Won't that change the kick and droop of the shaft? Hence making the shaft feel different.

 

Any comments, thoughts??

 

You are correct. I had the same concern and spoke to my club maker who specializes in Tour Issue Taylor Made equipment. He stated we will find your optimal settings, then I will pull the shaft, spine/flo and install correctly with your optimize settings in place. We will then reverify the settings through a fitting (fine tune checking). He stated any change from this point will effect the performance of the club.

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I have a silly question. To get the best performance from a graphite shaft, I thought all shafts have a spine and the spine should face away from your target. If that is true, and you start turning the shaft on the R9 clockwise and counter clockwise, to change the ball flight. Isn't the spine position going to also change now with the rotation/adjustments? Won't that change the kick and droop of the shaft? Hence making the shaft feel different.

 

Any comments, thoughts??

 

You are correct. I had the same concern and spoke to my club maker who specializes in Tour Issue Taylor Made equipment. He stated we will find your optimal settings, then I will pull the shaft, spine/flo and install correctly with your optimize settings in place. We will then reverify the settings through a fitting (fine tune checking). He stated any change from this point will effect the performance of the club.

 

 

?????? There is only one way that your club maker can make this comment and make any sense at all. He must have 8 shafts, all the same but all 8 are spined in the 8 different sleeve positions. I doubt he is doing this to fit people into this one type of driver. He can probably have 4 spinned on the 4 main positions and get away with it also. Still over the top.

 

Think about it, he tells you that if the club is not spined in the correct setting that fits you, then it will not perform correctly. So he has you hit balls with a driver that is spined let's say in the N position, but some how he feels that you need the L position. Question is, the shaft was not spined in the L position so based on what he says (will not perform correctly) how does one really know if the L position is the correct one unless he has a spinned L position club in you hands.

 

No wonder some people don't like the R9's..........the spine is not in the right position for most!

 

This is way to deep.......play the driver the way it was made if it has the stock shaft. If you reshaft, spine your new shaft and place in the main position that you are going to use........It's that simple.

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I have a silly question. To get the best performance from a graphite shaft, I thought all shafts have a spine and the spine should face away from your target. If that is true, and you start turning the shaft on the R9 clockwise and counter clockwise, to change the ball flight. Isn't the spine position going to also change now with the rotation/adjustments? Won't that change the kick and droop of the shaft? Hence making the shaft feel different.

 

Any comments, thoughts??

 

You are correct. I had the same concern and spoke to my club maker who specializes in Tour Issue Taylor Made equipment. He stated we will find your optimal settings, then I will pull the shaft, spine/flo and install correctly with your optimize settings in place. We will then reverify the settings through a fitting (fine tune checking). He stated any change from this point will effect the performance of the club.

 

 

?????? There is only one way that your club maker can make this comment and make any sense at all. He must have 8 shafts, all the same but all 8 are spined in the 8 different sleeve positions. I doubt he is doing this to fit people into this one type of driver. He can probably have 4 spinned on the 4 main positions and get away with it also. Still over the top.

 

Think about it, he tells you that if the club is not spined in the correct setting that fits you, then it will not perform correctly. So he has you hit balls with a driver that is spined let's say in the N position, but some how he feels that you need the L position. Question is, the shaft was not spined in the L position so based on what he says (will not perform correctly) how does one really know if the L position is the correct one unless he has a spinned L position club in you hands.

 

No wonder some people don't like the R9's..........the spine is not in the right position for most!

 

This is way to deep.......play the driver the way it was made if it has the stock shaft. If you reshaft, spine your new shaft and place in the main position that you are going to use........It's that simple.

 

I think you are misunderstanding. First yourfind what face angle you want the club to be, 1° open, 2° closed whatever. Then the clubmaker pulls the shaft, while the ferrule socket is still in the head, then they spine the shaft and install the shaft with correct spine angle back into the little socket peice. You can pull a shaft the same old way in an R9 as any other club. You leave the shaft locked in place and pull the shaft as normal. That way, you only need the 1 shaft.

TaylorMade Qi10 LS 9° w/ PX HZRDUS Gen4 Black 75 6.0

TaylorMade SIM ROCKET 14.5° w/ PX Handcrafted EvenFlow Black 75 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 3-19° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 4-22° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

Srixon ZU85 5 26° w/ PX RDX Smoke 100 6.5

Srixon ZX7 6-PW w/ Nippon Modus Tour125 X

Cleveland 588 RTX 52° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Srixon WG-706 56° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Scotty Cameron SSS Circle T Newport Beach w/ UST Frequency Filter

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For further reading, I'm not really sure Spine-ing is really relevant. See the rules of golf...

 

http://www.usga.org/equipment/guide/guide_to_the_rules.html#

 

B. Bending and Twisting Properties

Appendix II, 2b requires that: At any point along its length, the shaft must:

bend in such a way that the deflection is the same regardless of how the shaft is rotated about its longitudinal axis; and

twist the same amount in both directions.

 

This Rule effectively restricts shafts from being designed to have asymmetric properties, so that however the club is assembled, or whichever way the shaft is orientated, it will make no difference to the performance of the club

.

TaylorMade Qi10 LS 9° w/ PX HZRDUS Gen4 Black 75 6.0

TaylorMade SIM ROCKET 14.5° w/ PX Handcrafted EvenFlow Black 75 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 3-19° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

TaylorMade SIM 2 Max Rescue 4-22° w/ PX RDX Smoke 90 6.5

Srixon ZU85 5 26° w/ PX RDX Smoke 100 6.5

Srixon ZX7 6-PW w/ Nippon Modus Tour125 X

Cleveland 588 RTX 52° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Srixon WG-706 56° w/ Nippon Modus Prototype C10 S
Scotty Cameron SSS Circle T Newport Beach w/ UST Frequency Filter

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I can not believe anybody except a few touring pros can benefit from spining. Most golfer will have no clue if the club has bee spined or not. The R9 with its different settings will not effect majority (99.999%) of the golfer playing it.

 

Wk

Titleist GT4 Driver 10* Ventus TR Blue 6s

Titleist GT3 3Wood 16.5* Ventus tr Black 7s

Titleist T200 3 &4 Iron Tensei White HYB Stif

Titleist T100 5-PW AMTWhite S

Vokey SM10 50, 54, 58  AMT White

Scotty Tour Rat

Toulon Austin First Run

PROV1 Left Dash

 

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I have a silly question. To get the best performance from a graphite shaft, I thought all shafts have a spine and the spine should face away from your target. If that is true, and you start turning the shaft on the R9 clockwise and counter clockwise, to change the ball flight. Isn't the spine position going to also change now with the rotation/adjustments? Won't that change the kick and droop of the shaft? Hence making the shaft feel different.

 

Any comments, thoughts??

 

You are correct. I had the same concern and spoke to my club maker who specializes in Tour Issue Taylor Made equipment. He stated we will find your optimal settings, then I will pull the shaft, spine/flo and install correctly with your optimize settings in place. We will then reverify the settings through a fitting (fine tune checking). He stated any change from this point will effect the performance of the club.

 

 

?????? There is only one way that your club maker can make this comment and make any sense at all. He must have 8 shafts, all the same but all 8 are spined in the 8 different sleeve positions. I doubt he is doing this to fit people into this one type of driver. He can probably have 4 spinned on the 4 main positions and get away with it also. Still over the top.

 

Think about it, he tells you that if the club is not spined in the correct setting that fits you, then it will not perform correctly. So he has you hit balls with a driver that is spined let's say in the N position, but some how he feels that you need the L position. Question is, the shaft was not spined in the L position so based on what he says (will not perform correctly) how does one really know if the L position is the correct one unless he has a spinned L position club in you hands.

 

No wonder some people don't like the R9's..........the spine is not in the right position for most!

 

This is way to deep.......play the driver the way it was made if it has the stock shaft. If you reshaft, spine your new shaft and place in the main position that you are going to use........It's that simple.

 

I think you are misunderstanding. First yourfind what face angle you want the club to be, 1° open, 2° closed whatever. Then the clubmaker pulls the shaft, while the ferrule socket is still in the head, then they spine the shaft and install the shaft with correct spine angle back into the little socket peice. You can pull a shaft the same old way in an R9 as any other club. You leave the shaft locked in place and pull the shaft as normal. That way, you only need the 1 shaft.

 

markheardjr, you are correct. He pulls that shafts with your optimized settings in place, spines/flo's the shaft and re-installs the shaft oriented correctly. Then he refits you a second time to ensure the results are optimized (as I stated above). Do not reconfigure the shaft into any other position thereafter.

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I have a silly question. To get the best performance from a graphite shaft, I thought all shafts have a spine and the spine should face away from your target. If that is true, and you start turning the shaft on the R9 clockwise and counter clockwise, to change the ball flight. Isn't the spine position going to also change now with the rotation/adjustments? Won't that change the kick and droop of the shaft? Hence making the shaft feel different.

 

Any comments, thoughts??

 

You are correct. I had the same concern and spoke to my club maker who specializes in Tour Issue Taylor Made equipment. He stated we will find your optimal settings, then I will pull the shaft, spine/flo and install correctly with your optimize settings in place. We will then reverify the settings through a fitting (fine tune checking). He stated any change from this point will effect the performance of the club.

 

 

?????? There is only one way that your club maker can make this comment and make any sense at all. He must have 8 shafts, all the same but all 8 are spined in the 8 different sleeve positions. I doubt he is doing this to fit people into this one type of driver. He can probably have 4 spinned on the 4 main positions and get away with it also. Still over the top.

 

Think about it, he tells you that if the club is not spined in the correct setting that fits you, then it will not perform correctly. So he has you hit balls with a driver that is spined let's say in the N position, but some how he feels that you need the L position. Question is, the shaft was not spined in the L position so based on what he says (will not perform correctly) how does one really know if the L position is the correct one unless he has a spinned L position club in you hands.

 

No wonder some people don't like the R9's..........the spine is not in the right position for most!

 

This is way to deep.......play the driver the way it was made if it has the stock shaft. If you reshaft, spine your new shaft and place in the main position that you are going to use........It's that simple.

 

That is what he does. He does not sell retail equipment. He sells Tour Issue Taylor Made equipment he builds from scratch.

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For the 0.1% difference its going to make, what is the point. Just enjoy messing around with the setup and forget spinning, its really not worth it imo. If it was that big of a deal OEM's would offer it. I have hit the same setup spinned and unspinned and could tell 0 difference between the 2.

 

The point is your tour issue driver is built from scratch, hotmelted if you choose, any type of grip, length, swingweight, spined/flo'd for one price. If you choose not to spine/flo your shaft, it is still the same price. If you choose not to hotmelt your head, it is still the same price. His clients are not the typical amateur going into a golf shop and purchasing equipment. His typical clients are pros and top level amateurs. IMO, why not get your shaft spined/flo'd if you are not being charged any further for it.

 

I am not here debating the pro's and con's on spine/flo'd shafts. My intent was to convey a conversation I had with a reputable club builder. Go get an R9, change the settings and have fun with it. In fact, I do not own any Tour Issue Taylor Made drivers, I own no equipment built by him, my 905R driver was built by Titleist, it is not spined/flo'd and I am happy with it!

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I have my clubs spined and feel it does make somewhat of a difference with ball contact, or consistancy. When my club fitter shows me the demo of before and after being spined it is an eye opener. It may be piece of mind, not sure. I think most don't benefit from it though because just like guys who play too stiff a shaft or too low of lofted driver they arent good enough to notice the difference.

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Does anyone know where I can buy a new adapter for my R9 instead of removing shafts? I had installed the removable adapters on my Cobra and Cleveland last year that I bought from Golfsmith and it was nice due to you just remove shaft and screw in another and try it out. The thing I like about the R( is adjusting the face open or closed and the ability to drop the lie down a degree.

So again anywhere to purchase new adapters?????

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For the 0.1% difference its going to make, what is the point. Just enjoy messing around with the setup and forget spinning, its really not worth it imo. If it was that big of a deal OEM's would offer it. I have hit the same setup spinned and unspinned and could tell 0 difference between the 2.

 

The point is your tour issue driver is built from scratch, hotmelted if you choose, any type of grip, length, swingweight, spined/flo'd for one price. If you choose not to spine/flo your shaft, it is still the same price. If you choose not to hotmelt your head, it is still the same price. His clients are not the typical amateur going into a golf shop and purchasing equipment. His typical clients are pros and top level amateurs. IMO, why not get your shaft spined/flo'd if you are not being charged any further for it.

 

I am not here debating the pro's and con's on spine/flo'd shafts. My intent was to convey a conversation I had with a reputable club builder. Go get an R9, change the settings and have fun with it. In fact, I do not own any Tour Issue Taylor Made drivers, I own no equipment built by him, my 905R driver was built by Titleist, it is not spined/flo'd and I am happy with it!

 

I appreciate everyone's comments on this one. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one wondering about shaft spine. I mean, who wants to spend $400 for a driver and get shafted. :-)

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I know that almost all of the shafts that are in the R9 drivers on Tour are painted with the same paint scheme (grip, white, red) But I am wondering what type of shafts the tour guys are actually playing (diamana, ust, oziks fuji etc..)

 

Also, I noticed that TM only offers a few different shafts as 'custom' upgrades in the R9....if one wants another shaft that they do not offer, how hard is it to change the adapter and put it onto another shaft?

 

Last, does anyone know why on the TM website the Fubuki (73 and 83) that they offer as an upgrade has a lower torque and different specs than the specs that are on the actual Mitsubishi website?

 

also Any reviews on the Fubuki (spin, launch, torque etc...)

 

Thanks Guys!

 

I don't trust those club companies, I'm pretty sure Fubuki line from TM is different shaft from Mitsubishi, TM's website shows different torque rating compares to Mitsubishi's website. That's enough suspicion for me to not to use the TP shafts. And, why would TM only charges $100 more from the non-TP heads, i know that fubuki is $300 retail. Club companies buy shafts in large quanities so they will get great discounted price from the shaft manufatures, so they will charge more than $100. i'm sure wholesale price of the Fubuki is around $100, that's way they are retail at $300. It would be more believable if the TP shafts are $200 rather than $100. That's my 2 cents.

[color=#000000]Taylormade R9 425tp 10.5* - Diamana Ahina 70x[/color]
[color=#333333]Nike Sasquatch 14* - Fubuki 70x[/color]
[color=#333333]Ping Anser 20* - Kuro Kage Silver TiNi 90x[/color]
[color=#666666]Ping i25 - CFS x[/color]
[color=#999999]TM Ztp 53* - KBS
TM Ztp 58* - KBS[/color]
[color=#CCCCCC]SC Newport 2 - 34"[/color]
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I believe that Taylor Made uses its own measuring tools for torque, which might slightly differ from the means that Mitsubishi measures them. Taylor Made has made both geniune authentic aftermarket shafts with TP graphics and lesser proprietary versions as well with TP graphics. Best Example is how they are labeled. R9 Fubuki TP is marked with all the same language as an authentic Fubuki, therefor it plays indentical to one with Mitsubishi graphics...Tour Burner TP Diamana White; however, is labeled Diamana 65, which is not the same whiteboard as the geniune 63 model produced by Mitsubishi...it is proprietary and scaled down, but carries many of the same characteristics. I was told this by a gentleman at the kingdom who fits many tour pros, last July. And yes, they buy thousands of high end shafts from the various premium manufacturers at an extremely discounted price, thus they pass this small savings on to the consumer (ie $100 upcharge, versus $300).

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I know that almost all of the shafts that are in the R9 drivers on Tour are painted with the same paint scheme (grip, white, red) But I am wondering what type of shafts the tour guys are actually playing (diamana, ust, oziks fuji etc..)

 

Also, I noticed that TM only offers a few different shafts as 'custom' upgrades in the R9....if one wants another shaft that they do not offer, how hard is it to change the adapter and put it onto another shaft?

 

Last, does anyone know why on the TM website the Fubuki (73 and 83) that they offer as an upgrade has a lower torque and different specs than the specs that are on the actual Mitsubishi website?

 

also Any reviews on the Fubuki (spin, launch, torque etc...)

 

Thanks Guys!

 

I don't trust those club companies, I'm pretty sure Fubuki line from TM is different shaft from Mitsubishi, TM's website shows different torque rating compares to Mitsubishi's website. That's enough suspicion for me to not to use the TP shafts. And, why would TM only charges $100 more from the non-TP heads, i know that fubuki is $300 retail. Club companies buy shafts in large quanities so they will get great discounted price from the shaft manufatures, so they will charge more than $100. i'm sure wholesale price of the Fubuki is around $100, that's way they are retail at $300. It would be more believable if the TP shafts are $200 rather than $100. That's my 2 cents.

 

Good point about if these are the real deal or not as I wonder about this too. I do think the Matrix HD6 will be the only real deal of the bunch and maybe the F1's. But I will have to disagree with you on the part that because these shafts only have a $100 up charge, that this is the reason to think that they are not the real deal.

 

The Matrix HD6 is a so called $300 up charge and it will sell the least of all the shaft offerings for the TP R9......why? Because of the cost factor. Majority will not pay $799 for a driver these days, nor would TM sell that many TP shafted R9's at $599. (price for the $200 up charge that you mentioned instead of $100) Price point is a huge factor for all these manufactures and always will be. Next is the profit margin and I think by buying in bulk with some slight watered down of these $300 shafts, they can now be used to hit that price point that TM targeted for this new driver. TM has projected lofty goals in the metal wood category with the R9, and to meet these goals it's all about price point, marketing and quality to add to what they have already built up reputation wise in the metal wood category. They would never reach these lofty goals with $800 and $600 drivers as no one willing to spend that in todays economy. The cost factor we know is very low for these clubs, it's all the marketing, technology research, and player support that is the real cost factor for TM.

 

It sure would be nice to know if you are getting the real deal of not, but you always have choices.......try the TP shaft of your choice and see how it plays, or buy a non TP and put what ever shaft you want into it. Heads can be had for about $230 right now, add you favorite shaft and then you know you have the real deal.

 

TMBob

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      • 7 replies
    • 2024 ISCO Championship - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 ISCO Championship - Monday #1
      2024 ISCO Championship - Monday #2
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      James Nicholas - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Marcus Kinhult - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Adrien Saddier - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Stephen Stallings, Jr. - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Espen Kofstad - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Daniel Iceman - Kentucky PGA Section Champ - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Cooper Musselman - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Alex Goff - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Angel Hidalgo - WITB - 2024 ISCO Championship
       
       
       
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Kevin Streelman's custom Cameron putter - 2024 ISCO Championship
      Cameron putter - 2024 ISCO Championship
       
       
       
       
       
       
      • 3 replies
    • 2024 John Deere Classic - Discussion and Links to Photos
      Please put any questions or comments here
       
       
       
      General Albums
       
      2024 John Deere Classic - Monday #1
      2024 John Deere Classic - Monday #2
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #1
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #2
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #3
      2024 John Deere Classic - Tuesday #4
       
       
       
       
       
      WITB Albums
       
      Jason Day - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Josh Teater - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Michael Thorbjornsen - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Austin Smotherman - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Joseph Bramlett - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      C.T. Pan - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Anders Albertson - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Seung Yul Noh - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Blake Hathcoat - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Jimmy Stanger - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Cole Sherwood - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Anders Larson - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Bill Haas - WITB - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Tommy "2 Gloves" Gainey WITB – 2024 John Deere Classic
       
      Pullout Albums
       
      Garrick Higgo - 2 Aretera shafts in the bag - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Jhonattan Vegas' custom Cameron putter - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Bud Cauley's custom Cameron putter - 2024 John Deere Classic
      2 new Super Stroke Marvel comics grips - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Swag blade putter - 2024 John Deere Classic
      Swag Golf - Joe Dirt covers - 2024 John Deere Classic
       
       
       
       
       
        • Like
      • 3 replies

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