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How do I figure out which shaft is for me? I don't think it matters...


Yellow Jacket

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In the last little while, I've played a 7.5* 975J w/Titleist Prolite stiff (owned for 4 years), 8.5* 983E w/Grafalloy Prolite stiff (played for 5 rounds), 10* Ping TiSI w/ProLaunch X (hit after playing a round with the guy who owned it), 8.5* R5 w/stock stiff (weaker than the others, played for 2 rounds), 9* ERC w/NV65 stiff (hit a friend's couples times during a round), 8.5* 905S w/Blue stiff (stiffer than the others, but it feels fine, played with for 1 round so far). I hit all of them well, even though the shafts are all different. The 905S is the only one I currently own. With my past track record, will I really gain much from a shaft fitting, and how would I do so without paying an arm and leg?

915D3 8.5* Aldila Synergy Blue 70TX
915F 15* Diamana B-Series 80X, 18* Grafalloy Epic T90X
716MB 4-PW X100
SM6 52F TVD 56K/60M S400
Bullseye Flange
 

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Yes you definately can get quite a lot out of being properly fit for a driver shaft. But you can't go in and blindly try shafts and expect one to magically jump out at you, there's just too many out there.

 

There are a lot of experienced members on the board here who can help you. However, in order to do this, you need to give us some info about your swing and needs, because that is what dicitates the type of shaft (bend profile) you need.

 

1. What clubhead is this going to go into?

2. What's your swing speed?

3. What's your tempo?

4. What's your wrist **** release (early, middle, late)?

5. What's your transition at the top (smooth, pause, or hard load)?

6. What's your swing style (body swings the club, or arms and hands, etc.)?

7. What ball flight do you have now and what ball flight do you want?

8. What's your typical miss (high fade, low hook, etc)?

9. What kind of spin rate do you have?

 

The more info you can give, the better your fit will be.

 

EDIT: On top of all that, if you can get on a launch monitor with the intended club head and post the numbers as well (ball speed, launch angle, spin rate, etc.) that will also greatly help in selecting the right driver shaft.

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If your going to spend $300-$400 on a driver its a good idea to have that driver tuned your game. I was like you and tried many diff drivers before i actually spent the money and got a proper fitiing done, now I wont buy a club until i have one done. Im a true believer in getting your clubs fitted.

Driver: Yamaha Inpres X V202 tour - Diamana Whiteboard 83s
FW: Nike VR Pro LE 5wood - GD AD-DI 7s
Titleist 712u #3, PX 5.5
Mizuno MP 69 4-7, PX 5.5
Mizuno MP 33 8-pw (Bent 2* weak), PX 5.5

Wedges: Miura "New Series" - 55* & 59*

Putter: Scotty Cameron Pro Platinum

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Good questions. However, I took a route opposite of what you did in that I used only one driver head, the Alpha Reaction 460cc 830.2, and shafted it first with the Blue, followed by the NV65 and finally the ProForce. I was very unhappy with these shafts until I called Joe and was fitted by Joe with the proper shaft. Long story short, same head with the proper shaft equates to longer and straighter driver ... so the answer is yes. As for cost, it came down to paying one time for the right shaft instead of paying few times for the wrong shafts. Lesson learned for me.

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Good questions. However, I took a route opposite of what you did in that I used only one driver head, the Alpha Reaction 460cc 830.2, and shafted it first with the Blue, followed by the NV65 and finally the ProForce. I was very unhappy with these shafts until I called Joe and was fitted by Joe with the proper shaft. Long story short, same head with the proper shaft equates to longer and straighter driver ... so the answer is yes. As for cost, it came down to paying one time for the right shaft instead of paying few times for the wrong shafts. Lesson learned for me.

 

That's far and away the best advise. Get fit by someone who knows what they're doing and has a good reputation. They know the product forwards and backwards and who fits into what shafts.

 

That way you pay to get it done once and don't have to worry about it unless your swing changes.

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Good questions. However, I took a route opposite of what you did in that I used only one driver head, the Alpha Reaction 460cc 830.2, and shafted it first with the Blue, followed by the NV65 and finally the ProForce. I was very unhappy with these shafts until I called Joe and was fitted by Joe with the proper shaft. Long story short, same head with the proper shaft equates to longer and straighter driver ... so the answer is yes. As for cost, it came down to paying one time for the right shaft instead of paying few times for the wrong shafts. Lesson learned for me.

Even if I only need to try 2 shafts twice to find the right shaft, you estimate $100/shaft + cost of reshafting (free if I get it done at Golfsmith)...that's starts to get very expensive. It's "cheaper" for me to just go with a shaft that's "close" and swallow any distance loss.

 

And to answer these questions

1. What clubhead is this going to go into?

905S 8.5* is the head I have and since I'm a graduate student, I'm not rolling in dough.

 

2. What's your swing speed?

110-118 depending on whether I'm playing once every 2 weeks or every day.

 

3. What's your tempo?

Probably around 1 sec...so, normal.

 

4. What's your wrist **** release (early, middle, late)?

I'm working on holding it longer.

 

5. What's your transition at the top (smooth, pause, or hard load)?

See vid at bottom.

 

6. What's your swing style (body swings the club, or arms and hands, etc.)?

I have a very much 1-swing plane which means a body swing. See vid at bottom.

 

7. What ball flight do you have now and what ball flight do you want?

Ball flight is high draw, occasionally a fade depending on the day. Flight is fine though I'm working on lowering it.

 

8. What's your typical miss (high fade, low hook, etc)?

I will either get stuck and block it right or come over the top and double-cross. That's ONLY if I swing hard.

 

9. What kind of spin rate do you have?

I think it's around 2600

 

You can see my swing from last summer: www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg397g/swing.avi I'm trying to make some huge changes, most notably adjusting my swing plane. Taking it inside always made it easy to prevent over-the-top but promoted an early release. I'm trying to take it more straight back but it's harder to prevent over-the-top.

915D3 8.5* Aldila Synergy Blue 70TX
915F 15* Diamana B-Series 80X, 18* Grafalloy Epic T90X
716MB 4-PW X100
SM6 52F TVD 56K/60M S400
Bullseye Flange
 

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What doesn't matter are specs and opinions...

 

So many manufacturers call their shafts low torque, low or mid kick, etc.

yet similar descriptions bear little if any resemblence to each other

...such that the same descrpition of a different shafts still have different trajectories.

 

...not to mention the added variable of the head...

 

You can spend a lot of money buying and reshafting a head and maybe get

lucky...

...or spend $75 or so on a fitting (@$15 a reshafting that's 5 jobs, +++

the cost of the shafts)...

...or buy a lot of drivers with different shafts (or other combos of

heads and shafts...) at a price low enuf to resell them so as not to lose

$$$...

(or if you're really lucky, low enuf to MAKE some $$$)...

 

My latest success is with the Mizuno MP-001/400/10/reg. flex Exsar

shaft....bought not because it's specs somehow fit my swing, but

on the opinions of players on this board that it simply was a quality driver......

 

Mizuno says it's low torque, but @ 4° that's not what most players would

call "low"...it's also a REG. flex but it measured to be 241cpm, a VERY

soft regular...

 

...still, it works for me...much more so that a few other shaft-head

combos I'd tried lately...on a head I'd become too committed to 'finding

the right shaft' for...so I'm selling off the head and those shafts and

sticking with what works...an OEM driver with a stock OEM shaft...

 

...maybe my swing just happens to fit the profile of the typical swing

Mizu built it for...in any case that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

TM SLDR-430/10.5 @ 12°, OEM speeder 57R
08 Burner 3w/5w 49g M/sr flex
Cobra TWS Hybrids H3/H4 A-flex 60g
Cobra SS-i irons Penley Graphite Light-R
Cleve 588-49LowBounce,900-54LB,588-57LB
TM Spider 72M
[url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1061239-katbirds-bag-of-sticks/"]WITB Link[/url]

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I think the best advice you can get for drivers is going to come from a computer screen these days.

 

I watched the Cleveland tech van work through fittings for three or four players yesterday afternoon, with a Vector and mainly Hi-Bores. They didn't have every shaft under the sun, but they had a very good selection, 15 models or so in R and S, with a few Xs and various lofts.

 

There's no question in my mind anymore that someone buying a driver is probably doing themselves a huge disservice by not going with the launch monitor fitting.

 

The local pro at the range (who is a fantastic player..former college Div I, played the Nike Tour for a while) hits the ball solid...he hit about 20 shots with various combinations against his own driver ( a Comp 8.5 with an 83X Diamana). 117 head speed, 175 ball speed, 11 to 12 launch and 2700 to 3100 spin. He was incredibly consistent with the clubhead speed/ball speed, but the launch and spin could go all over the place with different shafts, even in X.

 

One of the players hitting different shafts just couldn't accept that an 11.5 loft (in combination with a certain shaft) was the best fit on the numbers. I got the feeling he just couldn't carry a loft that high.

 

I did get a pretty good feel for what the different launch angles look like, and a bit of feel about what the ball behavior looks like when the ball is really spinning.

 

I didn't get a chance to get on the machine, since they were booked on times, but I'm going that route this year...selling all the drivers and finding one that I can feel confident about the launch specs.

 

The important thing to remember is that to produce good launch monitor numbers, you have to be able to hit the club consistently. You don't want to buy the one that produced the best numbers 2 out of 15 shots.

 

What you want to do is hit as many shafts as you can, but not more than four or five balls each, and preferably after you haven't hit your current driver for a couple of weeks if possible. You do want to warm up with your irons. Then narrow it down to four or five shaft models that you like the feel of and can hit. Then go with the one that produces the best numbers the most consistently.

 

Then smile confidently on the tee, even if the right shaft for you turned out to be something other than a Diamana or a Speeder.

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