Reshafting 101

taylormadefan · April 7, 2006

How to reshaft a steel shaft

I've been seeing a lot of questions about how to reshaft irons in the past couple of weeks, so I figured a step by step walk through might be useful for the forum. Paying someone $17 labor to reshaft a golf club is ludicrous IMHO since it's so easy.

This isn't Joe Kwok's 5 hour blueprinting, nor is it meant to be, it's just a quick primer on the basics needed to reshaft a golf club, should your beloved 8 iron come flying off on a practice round the day before a big tournament. :D

Also remember, that while most of what holds true with steel can be transferred to graphite, there are some differences (mostly heat involved and prepwork). If there's enough interest from the membership, perhaps we can cover graphite reshafting.

Tools and Materials
Tape Measure
Epoxy
Shafting Beads (optional)
Sandpaper
Acetone
Rags
Toothpicks
Chop Saw or Pipe Cutter

Prep Work
To pull off an iron head, just take a torch or heatgun to it and get it hot. After 30 seconds or so (if you're using a torch a heat gun may take longer) the head should just twist right off.

This is a key difference with graphite shafts, it's easy to cook graphite shafts with too much heat and twisting heads off graphite shafts is a big NO NO. :stop:

Clean out the inside of the hosel with a pipe cleaner and some acetone to remove any dried epoxy and let it dry thoroughly. This is a crucial step since any remaning epoxy, dirt, and oil can prevent the new epoxy from curing and can lead to failure.

Dry Fitting
This is a key step which makes sure things go easier later. Take the replacement shaft and insert it into the hosel to make sure it's the right fit. Mark the hosel insertion depth as shown below. Remove the shaft.

Abrasion
Another important step that's vital. The chrome finish on irons is smooth and smooth things don't like to stick in place. Take sandpaper, wrap it around the shaft, and roll the shaft around until the surface is roughed up. This way the epoxy will have something to stick to. You should abrade the shaft about a 1/4" past the hosel insertion mark you made to allow for the ferrule to go on. Once the shaft is abraded, insert the ferrule so it sits flush with the hosel insertion line and dry fit again to make sure everything is still in good standing.

Edit: I forgot to take a picture before adding the ferrule on.

Epoxy
mix up whatever epoxy you choose. Buy the stuff from a golf store, not the standard stuff at Home Depot. If you're a newbie at shafting it's a very good idea to stay away form the tour van stuff since it sets up so fast you've got to be able to work fast. I still use the 18 hour curing stuff, and it's fine by me. Some comes in syringes, some come in bottles. Whatever you choose, the key is getting equal parts of the stuff dispensed and thoroughly mixed so it can properly cure.

I always use shafting beads in my epoxy to ensure that the shaft goes into the hosel evenly and not cocked to one side. I've heard horror stories about funky lie angles caused by improper insertion. All you have to do is mix them in with the epoxy and you're good to go. I don't know if they're even neccessary for iron shafts, but hey, it can't hurt, can it?

Shaft Away
Coat the inside of the hosel with the mixed epoxy and run the tip of the shaft over the epoxy as pictured below. Make sure everything is completley covered. It's very easy. Then just insert the shaft tip into the hosel. Wipe off any excess epoxy with an acetone soaked rag. Let the club dry in playing position for 24 hours and your'e done! Couldn't be easier!

I hope that helps, any questions, feel free to drop me a PM.

Perhaps I can do some more about gregripping and perhaps graphite shafts if you guys are interested!

MrParr1Noid · April 7, 2006

taylormadefan

Good information, good topic, good job. :stop: For a second I thought someone was video taping my operation here. :D Like you said, it isn't as extensive as Joe K does it but it'll work in a pinch.