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"cokeing" TM TP Y Cutters?


liongolf_ike

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anyone tried it?
I have recently purchased some TM Y Cutters and I am not really a huge fan of the black. I have noticed that with some play the soles are somewhat losing their color. I was wondering if anyone hase tried "cokeing" any Y Cutters like some do with older camerons to take the black finish off. Just wondering if anyone has tried or what the results would be? Raw? Satin? help, lol
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The TP's are plated black. Coke won't do anything to it. The Oil can finish is actually an oil that cools the wedge after it's cast.

 

You need to either sand it manually or sand blast it.

 

thanks, i wasnt sure, but it does rust on the black right?

 

could he just leave it outside all the time? or sand it down to allow weathering to occur?

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thanks, i wasnt sure, but it does rust on the black right?

 

could he just leave it outside all the time? or sand it down to allow weathering to occur?

 

I don't know for sure, but from what I understand, the only place it will rust is in the feel pockets and on the face of the club which are blasted (I believe).

 

However, I am sure that when you get it stripped, since the club's stainless steel (not carbon like the Vokeys), it's going to look different rusted and won't rust as much.

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I bet the wire wheel treatment or sand blast would make them raw and then they would rust all over.

 

From our experience with our on the beach location, all wedges will rust. You dont even have to try here. Nothing like a little salt air in the morning.

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Plated black with what?? you sure about that??

 

matt411,

 

I'm not going to post something unless I'm sure about it. But if I'm proven wrong, I'll gladly eat my words as I have in the past :)

 

From TMAG:

The distinctive dark finish, created by a three-step oxidation process, dramatically reduces glare.

 

It's not like the Fe2O3 "black" wedges of old. . .

 

The only way I've heard to get it off is sanding / grinding as discountdan's posted above.

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Plated black with what?? you sure about that??

 

matt411,

 

I'm not going to post something unless I'm sure about it. But if I'm proven wrong, I'll gladly eat my words as I have in the past :)

 

From TMAG:

The distinctive dark finish, created by a three-step oxidation process, dramatically reduces glare.

 

It's not like the Fe2O3 "black" wedges of old. . .

 

The only way I've heard to get it off is sanding / grinding as discountdan's posted above.

3x Black oxide is not a plating and can be removed fairly easily. Run by pinchapenny and buy some muriatic acid used for pools and pour it on the head and see what happens. or use a 25% hcl solution, or use limeaway, or use clr. the last 2 just take a little longer. The 1st 2 should take less than 30 seconds.

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Plated black with what?? you sure about that??

 

matt411,

 

I'm not going to post something unless I'm sure about it. But if I'm proven wrong, I'll gladly eat my words as I have in the past :)

 

From TMAG:

The distinctive dark finish, created by a three-step oxidation process, dramatically reduces glare.

 

It's not like the Fe2O3 "black" wedges of old. . .

 

The only way I've heard to get it off is sanding / grinding as discountdan's posted above.

3x Black oxide is not a plating and can be removed fairly easily. Run by pinchapenny and buy some muriatic acid used for pools and pour it on the head and see what happens. or use a 25% hcl solution, or use limeaway, or use clr. the last 2 just take a little longer. The 1st 2 should take less than 30 seconds.

 

So if i do any of these to the wedges, it will not ruin them? I just dont want to be out of 2 wedges.

 

The coating on my J33 black satins came off very easily in coke including the backs which seem to be a similar coating. Worth a try I guess. Gave me a nice raw finish that is rusting along pretty well

So you did coke your bridgestone wedges? The finish on those is is alot thicker than the Tp Y Cutters. I just may try it. I guess the worst it could do is make em sticky. LOL. Also BTW, how long did you soak your bstones?

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3x Black oxide is not a plating and can be removed fairly easily. Run by pinchapenny and buy some muriatic acid used for pools and pour it on the head and see what happens. or use a 25% hcl solution, or use limeaway, or use clr. the last 2 just take a little longer. The 1st 2 should take less than 30 seconds.

 

matt411, you're correct, I looked a couple of used TP wedges today at the store and sure enough, the sole was worn to the stainless beneath as were the contact spots in the center of the club. Definately 3X BO.

 

The works is another option to take it off safely without harming the metal beneath.

theworks_toiletcleaner.gif

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I soaked them overnight in some Coke although I think Pepsi or Dr Pepper may work as well. In the morning, I cleaned them with some citrus degreaser.

IMO, if it doesnt take the finish off, you shouldnt have any damage to the wedges. It will just leave them sticky.

The finish on the J33 seems to be the same on the rear of the wedge as other black wedges. It didnt do anything else to the wedges. In fact all the paintfill remained intact.

 

Shouldnt cost you more than a 2 liter to try

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thanks talyormadefan for the try with the toilet bowl cleaner, but it seemed to just make the face actually darker and didnt do too much to the backside of the wedge, except EAT the TP symbol right off the club. I woulldnt try this again. Sorry TMFAN, just didnt seem to work well. I am gonna try coking it now i guess, since this seemed to make it darker. Ive only done the 54 right now, cant hurt my baby the 58, but i guess it is not hurting the metal. I will have pics after I finish the whole process. Any other ideas are welcome too.

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3x Black oxide is not a plating and can be removed fairly easily. Run by pinchapenny and buy some muriatic acid used for pools and pour it on the head and see what happens. or use a 25% hcl solution, or use limeaway, or use clr. the last 2 just take a little longer. The 1st 2 should take less than 30 seconds.

 

matt411, you're correct, I looked a couple of used TP wedges today at the store and sure enough, the sole was worn to the stainless beneath as were the contact spots in the center of the club. Definately 3X BO.

 

The works is another option to take it off safely without harming the metal beneath.

theworks_toiletcleaner.gif

 

This stuff "Works" way better than coke! :) I use it for all my wedges (removing rust and finishes).

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yeah i am coking the 54 degree as we speak. I am gonna leave it in overnght since i already lost the medallion. Dont want to lose the other medallion in the coke, dont know if it will or not. The works probabaly would have worked, but I didnt like the chemicals, scared of burns, and also it ate away the meadallion and that was kind of shocking. I will let oyu know how it goes. I am suprised no one has tried this yet.

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if its stainless it resists rust thats why its called stainless.

 

All steels rust, stainless or otherwise. Stainless steel alloys just to a better job resisting the rust. If you have a stainless wedge and you want it to rust try a salt water bath and then let it sit outdoors, or use a wire brush on a carbon steel piece of metal then use it on the stainless. The carbon steel that is letft behind will give the rust a place to seat and grow.

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From the clubmaker's workshop:

 

Try navel jelly...the phosphoric acid does the trick apparently..

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if its stainless it resists rust thats why its called stainless.

 

 

 

All steels rust, stainless or otherwise. Stainless steel alloys just to a better job resisting the rust. If you have a stainless wedge and you want it to rust try a salt water bath and then let it sit outdoors, or use a wire brush on a carbon steel piece of metal then use it on the stainless. The carbon steel that is letft behind will give the rust a place to seat and grow.

 

 

Thats what i said it resists rust

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