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oil quenching your wedges


jva

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Here's what you'll need

 

 

1 propane torch from hardware store

 

2 5 gallon bucket

 

3 1 quart of motor oil. doesnt matter clean or dirty or weight

 

 

Put oil in 5 gallon bucket and start heating up your wedge for a few minutes maybe 5 or so. Then dip the hot wedge into the oil and you will hear the cooling. Let your wedge cool down for a few minutes. repeat process ujntill dark enough.

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i have to believe there is more to it than this, and this just seems like a way to burn the garage down.

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Good advise, oil quenching isn't something you should try at home IMHO.

 

The process listed above is close to what they actually do. However, there are some key differences.

 

1. They use special quenching oils with flash points between 250-500*F. I don't know what the flash point of motor oil is, but I'd rather not find out.

 

2. They get the wedge RED hot before quenching it. Much hotter than you can get it with a propane torch.

 

3. The vats they use to cool the metal are specially insulated to keep them from conducting heat or melting. A metal or plastic pan isn't the same thing.

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I have actually done this "oil quenching" to a Cameron putter. I took care to use thick leather gloves, and instead of using the bucket of oil, i took an oil soaked rag and just rubbed it over the hot metal. It took some time, but the result was amazing....alot like an oil can. I didn't have any problem with the rag catching fire, but you still might want to keep the fire extinguisher within arms reach.

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While heating and getting that head hot, there wouldn't be any chance of that head needing reshafting, would there? This heating and cooling of the head wouldn't make that epoxy brittle or anything, would it? :)

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  • 6 months later...

Hey guys I am going to be re-finishing my tear-drop this weekend. and yes I will be doing it in a safe enviroment, not my home.... and I will not be using propane but an Oxygen/Acetylene torch

 

Acetylene

Acetylene when burned with oxygen gives a temperature of 3200 °C to 3500 °C (5800 °F to 6300 °F), which is the highest temperature of any of the commonly used gaseous fuels.

 

Any difference in result when using conventional vs. synthetic oils?

 

Here is a before pic, comming soon an amazing after (cool)

 

 

 

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I cant wait to see the after pictures.

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Most lubricating oils like motor oil, or lubricating oil for very large bearings, will not ignite unless it's been "atomized" (think sprayed in a fine mist out of a shower head). If it's sitting in a bucket like that you could drop a match in to the bucket and........the match would just go out.

 

It's still a dangerous procedure though as seen on Mythbusters this week. They were attempting to "oil harden" steel hammers to disprove a myth. They used the hottest torch you can get, got the steel RED HOT, and then put it in the oil...at which point the oil instantly ignited.

 

Be careful (cool)

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Most lubricating oils like motor oil, or lubricating oil for very large bearings, will not ignite unless it's been "atomized" (think sprayed in a fine mist out of a shower head). If it's sitting in a bucket like that you could drop a match in to the bucket and........the match would just go out.

 

They used the hottest torch you can get, got the steel RED HOT, and then put it in the oil...at which point the oil instantly ignited.

 

Be careful ;)

 

This is true for gasoline and diesel as well... the trick is getting the match into the fluid before the vapors ignight ;) It is the vapors that burn, not the liquid.

 

I will of course be carefull, I am always wearing my PPE :cheesy:

 

If I dont post by Monday call 911 (cool)

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It's still a dangerous procedure though as seen on Mythbusters this week. They were attempting to "oil harden" steel hammers to disprove a myth. They used the hottest torch you can get, got the steel RED HOT, and then put it in the oil...at which point the oil instantly ignited.

 

Be careful :cheesy:

 

Glad to know I'm not the only Mythbusters fan out there. (cool)

 

I think their downfall with the fire was using a BBQ pit and hot coals to warm up the hammers, pull the hammers (burning cinders and all) and dunk them in the motor oil. The cinders ignited and kept going.

 

If it was me, I would avoid the whole fire threat and just use Birchwood Casey plum brown.

 

Good luck, be careful.

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i have oil quenched tattoo machine frames i made out of cold rolled steel....my method

 

take materials and put them in the oven at the highest temp setting.

 

periodicaly check if there red hot yet...prolly take longer for a wedge as there is more material.

 

i have used motor oil as well as gun blueing for this...note if using gun blueing where a heppa filter mask as the fumes can cause cancer and could send you to the hospital real quick

 

place in bucket...i use old coffee cans.

 

remove uniformally heated metal with tongs and dip.

 

let cool and you should have a very nice finish. the trick to this is getting the metal the same tempature through out the whole piece...and it really needs to be red hot. i can get them black as night with this treatment as well as almost a hematite finish with the bluing.

 

hmmm.... mabe i will try a wedge see if the same method works as well as it did for my tattoo machine frames.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here was a Scotty Cameron Studio Design #1 I did my experiment with..

 

Yes make sure whatever you pour your oil in IS NOT PLASTIC. I would also suggest doing this outside away from anything you wouldn't want to caught on fire if anything should go wrong.

 

Before and after shots..... Enjoy!!

 

 

Andy

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Has anybody done a more thorough job than the teardrop?

I have an old Cameron design with the finish stripped and was considering this.

 

I hate it when really cool projects like this fizzle out before we see a finished project.

 

Sorry, I have it finished, shafted and ready for the snow to melt (cool)

I will post pics when I get my hands on a camera.

 

 

make sure whatever you pour your oil in IS NOT PLASTIC. I would also suggest doing this outside away from anything you wouldn't want to caught on fire if anything should go wrong.

 

Andy

 

Yes you must do this outside!! I work in a shop with 55,000² feet of floor space and 35' ceeling with severl exhaust fans... I did my first stage inside the shop and we were smoked out!! the amount of smoke that this process produces is increadable ... and yes the oil will catch fire so be carefull!

 

 

wow they look great, does anyone know if it will work on stainless. hmmmm......Oil can irons?

 

I dont belive you can do this wil stainless... and the finish would not last long on irons anyway

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Glad to know I'm not the only Mythbusters fan out there. (cool)

 

I think their downfall with the fire was using a BBQ pit and hot coals to warm up the hammers, pull the hammers (burning cinders and all) and dunk them in the motor oil. The cinders ignited and kept going.

 

If it was me, I would avoid the whole fire threat and just use Birchwood Casey plum brown.

 

Good luck, be careful.

 

:idhitit: I agree! Although you still need the blowtorch with the plum brown :drinks:

 

what cameron did you oil quench. im willing to do it to a studio style newport beach if you give me more info. thanks

It probably wouldnt work on you studio style. From what others have told me and my experiences, unless something is different about this "oil quenching," carbon steel is the only steel that will respond to any kind of homeade refinishing.

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