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Refinishing the face of forged irons


csiachos

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You would have to be very careful about sanblasting a chrome iron head. It could take off the chrome if done with the wrong material or with to high of pressure. Most would say don't do it. You might consider s scotch pad or something like that or if you can find someone to do them they could use a very fine glass bead at a lower pressure and it would work. Sorry Im not much help.

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I've had a set of forged irons refinished by Golfworks, and they did a pretty good job. The faces come back with that new, OEM-style finish on the face. I have seen warning about not sandblasting forged iron faces, probably because the typical sandblasting setup has sand that is way too abrasive and high pressure. But at GW, they finish them somehow. Maybe they use a lower pressure bead blasting setup, or a finer grade of sand.

 

If the irons are in good shape and you just want the faces cleaned up a bit, call Golfworks or Golfsmith and ask if they can just do the same treatment to the faces.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi,

 

I suspect they use fine Glass Bead abrasive, it's also used in the automotive industry to finish valves, camshafts etc.

 

I've got a sandblasting cabinet that I'm currently setting up, I'll report how the Glass Bead performs on Stainless Steel, I've got some sets to re-furbish.

 

Cheerz :clapping: :cheesy: :crazy:

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Blasting is not a good idea at all unless you're planning on having them re-chromed. Best thing to do is polish them with a bench grinder with a brass wire wheel on one side and a threaded polishing wheel on the other. Don't use a steel wire wheel. The brass is softer than the chrome and will remove the rust from the carbon steel. Then polish it with white polishing compound that you can get at Walmart or Sears. The compound will leave some residue on the face and in the grooves, but it can be easliy removed at your sink with a stiff brush and some Comet. Once you get the finish, then you have to protect it, or it will just rust up again. The underlying steel on forged clubs is usually 1030 carbon steel which has a LOT of iron in it.

Get some anti corrosion formula to put on them when done, then make sure you wipe them well after each round. The ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion-Formula can be bought at either Walmart or an auto parts store. It's real light and a quick spray after you clean your clubs will not cause any kind of build up.

I'm working with a chemical company to try to find a specific anti corrosion material for golf clubs. It's a work in progress but may have a significant impact on this issue.

Mike

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Adjust the regulator to a lower pressure and use a finer bead (round, not a silica cube).

 

BeadblastCabinet.jpg

 

The wedge head was blasted to give it a Satin look. Here it is beside a chrome 690.MB PW. I don't have it anymore, but rusting was never an issue.

 

BeadblastWedge.jpg

 

Unless someone else actually has a cabinet and bead blasted irons, I am not even going to respond to people who do not have the equipment and have never even used the process, but want to argue that it will hurt the head. With the round, ball shaped media, you are not "stripping" the chrome, as this is a heck of alot harder than you would think unless you are using a very abrasive media and higher air pressure. The less abrasive media doesn't strip the metal, the dull, satin'ish look is a result of thousands upon thousands of 'micro-dings' in the chrome plating. This gives it a rougher texture and removes the mirror-like reflective quality of the plating. It DOES NOT go through the chrome if the right set up is used.

Taylormade Sim2 10.5° (turned down to 9°) - Tensei White 60 stiff

Ping G400 3 and 5 Woods - Diamana D+ Limited 70 stiff

Ping G400 22° Hybrid - Diamana D+ 90 Stiff

Ping i200 5-UW - Modus Tour 105 stiff

Vokey SM4 54° and 58° - DGS-300

Cameron Special Select Newport 2

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Hi,

 

Well I got my Glass Bead sandblaster setup and it works a treat, using a 2.5Hp 40L air compressor and a large bench sandblasting unit.

 

I'm using No. 4 glass beads, about MEDIUM grade, used for finishing rather than removal opf surface material.

 

 

 

 

 

It won't remove the surface scratches, but I don't want the blasting to remove any metal or groove edges.

 

I use a bench sander with scotchbrite medium grade belt to remove the nicks, medium scothbrite bench grinder disc to smooth surface, then a SISAL cleaning bench grinder pad for final satin polish on heads, then tape up the heads to sand blast the face.

 

It gives a finish I liken to Mizuno's, kinda a satin dull contrasting finish.

 

Cheerz :rolleyes: :D ;)

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Could you put some WAX into the grooves (I have haerd this is what cleveland is doing w/ cg12/zip grooves) to preserve the edges? I would think normal candle wax might work, scrape so it is even, then sandblast away w/ no damage at all?

 

Not that what you obvious experienced guys are doing is wrong at all. Just an idea.

 

JC

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Could you put some WAX into the grooves (I have haerd this is what cleveland is doing w/ cg12/zip grooves) to preserve the edges? I would think normal candle wax might work, scrape so it is even, then sandblast away w/ no damage at all?

 

Not that what you obvious experienced guys are doing is wrong at all. Just an idea.

 

JC

 

Hi Jameson,

 

The Glass Beads aren't really abrasive like most grits, they basically have roundish edges rather than sharp, used to finish a surface, rather than removing material.

 

Glass Beads are used in the automotive industry on valves etc., to clean the hardened baked on grime, rather than removing the metal surface, need to retain tolerances.

 

Cheerz :rolleyes: :D ;)

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...and the media would remove the wax from the grooves.

 

I have used harsher media to strip paint and it might soften the groove edges with enough time and pressure, but the round media won't even remove paint unless the psi is jacked up to 70 or so pounds.

As daMANiak said, we use the round media for cleaning/derusting metal parts, many of which have very tight tolerances (I work with Gas Turbines) and have never had a problem with it being too harsh.

Taylormade Sim2 10.5° (turned down to 9°) - Tensei White 60 stiff

Ping G400 3 and 5 Woods - Diamana D+ Limited 70 stiff

Ping G400 22° Hybrid - Diamana D+ 90 Stiff

Ping i200 5-UW - Modus Tour 105 stiff

Vokey SM4 54° and 58° - DGS-300

Cameron Special Select Newport 2

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daManiak: PM sent about how i'm crazy enough to send them your way.... the grooves are nice on both sets, but they could use some freshening up on the faces.

The bag:

 

Titleist 915 D2 driver

Titleist TS2 3 wood

Titleist 818 H1 3 & 4 hybrids

Mizuno MP-60 irons (5-PW)

Mizuno T-22 wedges

Odyssey Stroke Lab 2-ball

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daManiak: PM sent about how i'm crazy enough to send them your way.... the grooves are nice on both sets, but they could use some freshening up on the faces.

 

Hi RankOutSider,

 

You're even madder than me and I have a couple crazy nicks, daMANiack and MANiacs, a few may remember me with releases on BitTorrent etc.

 

What's the condition of the macgregor muirfield heads like, assume they are forged carbon steel, I generally only work on SS as it can be scotchbrite finished, it would take the chrome off? I'll see if I have something with a chrome finish and tape off a section to see what the glass bead blasting does to the surface and post some pics.

 

Isn't there someone in Canada that can do it, I don't mind at all, but the shipping alone is going to cost you abit, I suspect at least US$75 both ways (return).

 

Cheerz :rolleyes: :D ;)

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