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Installing Grips With No Tape


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HOW??
I find my grips a bit too big and want to install them with no grip tape to get a better size, i have dont this before and seem other peopel do it but i am having a hard time doing it, is there a trick to doing it?? should i use normal grip solvent? woudl it be easier if i used a big butt grip tool?

any tricks woudl be great as i woudl like to do this sometime tomorrow
its for my steel shafted clubs
thanks
Matt

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Matt, here's how I did it, it worked on both steel and graphite. I taped up the club from the butt to only about 1.5" down the shaft with traditional 2" double sided tape to help get the grip started. Then I SOAKED every surface involved with Bramptons. I didn't want to take any chances so I used double what I would normally. It took a bit longer to dry, but none stuck! I used a vice and pushed hard and it went on like a charm.

 

A couple of things to watch for.

 

1. You need a vise (which I know you've got), it takes some muscle to get it done.

 

2. I like brampton's solvent better than the golf smith stuff. It's just a little less volatile and seems to last longer than the clear stuff from golfsmith IMHO.

 

I haven't ever done it with an air compressor, so if that's what you were after sorry.

 

Hope that helps.

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One layer of tape isn't much. If your grips feel too big, you'll probably have better results by trying an undersized grip.

 

If you use a stretchy grip like a Tour Velvet, another way that undersized grips are made are by starting with an normal installation, then stretching the grip past it's natural length. You pull the grip until the diameter is down where you want it, then use gaffer's tape or duct tape to hold it in place while the solvent dries. You'll also get a undersized grip by installing a 60-size grip on a 58-size shaft (obviously, this will only work if you have a 58 shaft in the first place.

 

If you have an air compressor, you can also use an air grip tool to blow the grips on. The tool fits on the vent hole on the grip cap, and basically pressurizes the inside of the club. The air spills out underneath the grip and it will slide on or off easily when pressurized then grab on tightly when you turn the air tool off. I have one of these (the Star Grip tool) and it works great - you can take grips on or off in seconds. I don't think you can stretch the grip with an air install though. The air tool is only $30, but you will need at least a small air compressor with a tank.

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Do you have to use their grips for this - in other words, what holds the grip in place, friction alone from inner grip to shaft?

 

Thanks

 

Yeah, it's basically the friction between the shaft and rubber combined with the size difference between the shaft diameter and grip core.

 

Next time you cut a grip, take a look at how little adhesive remains on the grip. most of it usually slides out of the mouth of the grip when you slide it on.

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Do you have to use their grips for this - in other words, what holds the grip in place, friction alone from inner grip to shaft?

 

No, you don't need to use their grips for this to work. I've had the Star Grip setup for a couple of weeks now and have mounted Golf Pride, Lamkin, and Winn grips on irons and putters (no graphite shafts yet). They are pretty upfront in warning you that it may not work with all grips, although I've had no problems with the ones that they warn you about. A rubber one-piece grip like a Tour Velvet is a breeze - you slide the grip on the shaft about a 1/2", then hit the air lever and just slide it all the way on. Let the lever go and it's ON. It works equally well on a bare shaft or on buildup (masking) tape. You just need to be sure that there are no big creases in the tape. If you want to pull the grip, you pressurize the grip and just pull it off - there's no pulling effort at all, it just slides off.

 

The grips they warn you about are the polymer ones - Winn, GP Dual Durometer, GP New Decade Multicompound. The reason for this is that these sorts of grips intentionally have different stretching characteristics on the inner layer. For what it's worth, I put on a Winn V17 AVS midsize and GP Dual Durometer midsize with no issues whatsoever. I had bought this setup based on a review by a local clubmaker who also mentioned they didn't have great results with Winn. I believe this may be because the Winn grips appear to be made by wrapping a flat material around a mold (they have a visible seam in the back). The seam definitely doesn't stretch as much as the rest of the grip. But I had not complaints in the installation I did. I did a bunch of my clubs over with the new Lamkin Crossline Full Black Cords, also midsize with the only issue getting the grip started (the band end is very soft rubber for the first 3/4" before the cord starts).

 

I too was concerned about whether the grip would hold on without grip tape. I marked the centerlines on the shaft before cutting off the original grips and aligned the new grips to those lines. After a range session with my 5-, 7-, and 9-irons, including at least my normal share of mishits, it doesn't seem like there's any rotation with no tape. It is just the friction and stretch holding the grip on, but you can demonstrate how much grip this is by trying to slip on a grip without tape or solvent - I don't think it can be done. That said, the conventional solvent/tape application is defintely stronger than just friction - I was only able to remove one conventionally taped grip with air out of maybe 10 tries.

 

Part of what convinced me to try this out was the review I had read and the relatively low cost of the tool (assuming you have a suitable compressor). The discussion with Paul, the phone sales guy at Star Grip, was a big factor as well. I'm just a regular guy who likes to dink around, not a dealer or shop, but got great treatment from Star Grip. I was surprised to get a follow-up call from Paul yesterday, who wanted to see if I had any issues. He knew that I'm just a guy in his garage, but it really impressed me that the company would take the time to follow up.

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The main problem with grips that are percieved to be too big is the butt size. I combat this by belt/spin sanding the butts of my grips down to -1/32 under. makes a big difference ...then every 2 weeks or so i take a little sandpaper and refresh my grips...you will have thinner grips easily and quickly. I do this with the V55 Cord.

 

 

 

GoOse :)

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The conventional way would be to simply install as normal and stretch down 3/4". Massage the grip so the thinning action spreads along the entire length. Ya, I know, you like that.

 

Air is easy. Can do the same thing with a single layer of masking. Wet the mouth of the grip with soap/water solution, only about 1/2"of wetting needed to allow the mouth to slide along the surface of the masking tape. Apply air sparingly, only enough to allow you to push it on. Some grips like Dual Density, Dual Durometer don't work well. You need a protector tube so the grip doesn't blow in your face if you get frisky with the air. Blowing up grips can be fun though.

 

Compressors usually come with the gun and some attachments. Something you can stick into the a** of the grip is what you want. Usually it's a barbed looking dealie.

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The main problem with grips that are percieved to be too big is the butt size. I combat this by belt/spin sanding the butts of my grips down to -1/32 under. makes a big difference ...then every 2 weeks or so i take a little sandpaper and refresh my grips...you will have thinner grips easily and quickly. I do this with the V55 Cord.

 

 

 

GoOse ;)

 

Hi just get a towel and some paint thinner to refresh the grips no need to sand them.

 

Stretching also works well to get them skinnier but you leave it up to the install to get the diameter correct and cords don't stretch as easily but 3/4" is no problem.

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