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True Temper Dynamic Gold SL shaft trimming question


Leftygolfin

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Why tip trim on the .370 but no tip trim on the .355 and??
I just reshafted a set of irons that were .370 tip with the TT DG SL S300's and they had trimming instructions of which I followed. I am fixing to put a set in some Nike Pro Combo Tours which are .355 tt. I was fixing to order the shafts and have to pick out the lengths. They also advised no tip trimming. Whats the deal with that?? Do they have the same preformances? The .370's came in one length only and the .355s have to be specified lengths. I guess I don't really get it. Any info you guys can provide are much appreciated. Thanks
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They're already "tipped" for you. Each shaft length has a progressively longer section to the first step. Like the old saying goes, don't look a gift horse in the mouth. :D

 

Theoretically you can still tip them a little bit more, although this isn't advised with hard / soft stepping such a feasible option. Just install and butt trim, then enjoy. :idhitit:

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I just reshafted a set of irons that were .370 tip with the TT DG SL S300's and they had trimming instructions of which I followed. I am fixing to put a set in some Nike Pro Combo Tours which are .355 tt. I was fixing to order the shafts and have to pick out the lengths. They also advised no tip trimming. Whats the deal with that?? Do they have the same preformances? The .370's came in one length only and the .355s have to be specified lengths. I guess I don't really get it. Any info you guys can provide are much appreciated. Thanks

 

The 0.370 tip shaft is also a different type of shaft, beyond the different tip diameter. The 370 shaft has a parallel tip, meaning the bottom 4 or 5 inches of the shaft are the same diameter. The whole set of irons can be made up from on 40" master shaft, by tip and butt trimming the appropriate lengths.

 

The 355 shaft tip gets progressively larger from the tip up all the way to the first step of the shaft, which produces a taper that matches the taper of the hosel bore. This approach was used years ago when shafts were actually mechanically seated or pressed into the taper tipped hosel bore as an additional means of assuring that the shaft wouldn't come loose. Epoxies weren't quite as reliable in the old days. In any case, each shaft of a taper tipped set is individually designed and manufactured, so you don't tip trim them. If you do, the tip may not fit into the hosel completely.

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So would I be ok in ordering the .355tt shafts all in on length and then just butt trimming them to length?? Doesn't seem like that would work. I guess I need to figure out the exact lengths first and order them that way so that they would have the right kick point for the particular iron??

 

It just kinda thru me off when I installed a .370 tt DG SL shaft in a PW and compared it to the PW that is .355 with a tt DG SL shaft and the steps were at least an inch different.

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So would I be ok in ordering the .355tt shafts all in on length and then just butt trimming them to length?? Doesn't seem like that would work. I guess I need to figure out the exact lengths first and order them that way so that they would have the right kick point for the particular iron??

 

It just kinda thru me off when I installed a .370 tt DG SL shaft in a PW and compared it to the PW that is .355 with a tt DG SL shaft and the steps were at least an inch different.

 

You've got good instincts, LOL. Buying one length will only work if you want a VERY flexible PW or an ultra stiff 3 iron.

 

You should be able to buy a set for 3-PW.

 

If not, you need the following lengths (for DGSL):

 

PW - 37"

9 - 37"

8 - 37.5

7 - 38

6 - 38.5

5 - 39

4 - 39.5

3 - 40

 

Hope that helps.

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So would I be ok in ordering the .355tt shafts all in on length and then just butt trimming them to length?? Doesn't seem like that would work. I guess I need to figure out the exact lengths first and order them that way so that they would have the right kick point for the particular iron??

 

It just kinda thru me off when I installed a .370 tt DG SL shaft in a PW and compared it to the PW that is .355 with a tt DG SL shaft and the steps were at least an inch different.

 

 

True Temper sells the taper tipped shafts in 1/2 inch increments, these days from 37" up to 41". The 37" shaft is for your wedges, then you order the 1/2" longer shaft for each of the rest of the irons in the set. You butt trim the shafts to their final length.

 

The increments give you 10 taper tipped raw shaft lengths, which will allow you to shaft a whole set from wedges down to 1 iron, but it also allows you to soft step a particular flex twice and still be able to shaft a full set to the three iron.

 

If you have a SW, GW and PW, order 3 37", then 1 37.5" for the 9 iron and so on down the set.

 

Note that Taylormade's point about using the 37 for the 9 iron isn't incorrect. Some OEMs use 1/4" between the 9 and the PW, so you can use the 37" for that one as well.

 

There's never really been a hard and fast standard. I've seen R-400s in one OEM model that were significantly soft stepped, but that's what they thought produced the best "R flex" result for them, so that's what they made and sold.

 

I've seen it both ways in taper tipped OEM installations.

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If you have a SW, GW and PW, order 3 37", then 1 37.5" for the 9 iron and so on down the set.

 

Note that Taylormade's point about using the 37 for the 9 iron isn't incorrect. Some OEMs use 1/4" between the 9 and the PW, so you can use the 37" for that one as well.

 

There's never really been a hard and fast standard. I've seen R-400s in one OEM model that were significantly soft stepped, but that's what they thought produced the best "R flex" result for them, so that's what they made and sold.

 

I've seen it both ways in taper tipped OEM installations.

 

I think it's worth nothing that when you buy a standard "set" of DG's, you'll get 2 37" shafts.

 

Esentially by using a 37.5" for a 9 iron on up you've soft stepped the clubs once from "standard" (if there is such a thing in golf manufacturing) since the tip section is now longer with 9 iron on up.

 

My 704's are the same from hosel to first step on both the 9 and PW (SW and LW as well).

 

I guess we can agree to disagree. :crazy:

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If you have a SW, GW and PW, order 3 37", then 1 37.5" for the 9 iron and so on down the set.

 

Note that Taylormade's point about using the 37 for the 9 iron isn't incorrect. Some OEMs use 1/4" between the 9 and the PW, so you can use the 37" for that one as well.

 

There's never really been a hard and fast standard. I've seen R-400s in one OEM model that were significantly soft stepped, but that's what they thought produced the best "R flex" result for them, so that's what they made and sold.

 

I've seen it both ways in taper tipped OEM installations.

 

I think it's worth nothing that when you buy a standard "set" of DG's, you'll get 2 37" shafts.

 

Esentially by using a 37.5" for a 9 iron on up you've soft stepped the clubs once from "standard" (if there is such a thing in golf manufacturing) since the tip section is now longer with 9 iron on up.

 

My 704's are the same from hosel to first step on both the 9 and PW (SW and LW as well).

 

I guess we can agree to disagree. :crazy:

 

That is true, which is why I mentioned it that way, but it's always been a curious thing for a lot of clubbuilders. Many people adhere to the heel to first step approach for flex, which means that TT intended for the PW and other wedges to be "one step" soft, or they meant the rest of the set to be firmer. I suspect it was the former, but it doesn't make much sense. If the 9 iron is 5 to 7 grams heavier and 1/2 an inch longer, the first step ought to be a 1/2" farther from the heel if the flex assumptions are the same from shaft to shaft and head to head. I think at some point TT's engineers agreed that the wedges in a set should be slightly softer, so effectively TT doesn't make a wedge flex in the standard taper tipped set, but just uses the 9 iron shaft for all the wedges.

 

In any case, I think there are a couple of OEMs that sell taper tip DG shafted forged irons that have a 1/2" step difference between the PW and the 9, which just reflects the other philosophy (which they do simply by ordering 37.5s for the 9 irons and so on).

 

Then you've got the whole situation with different hosel lengths and bore depths, and it does result in situation where there is really no standard. No argument though that if you purchase a set of tapertipped DGs from one of the component suppliers, you get "9 iron" shafts for the PW and the rest of the wedges.

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