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How to get epoxy residue of driver crown


SweetTeaGolfer
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Sloppy reshaft job
I went to a local golf shop to get my Taylor Made r7 425 TP reshafted and when I got it back it was really sticky on the shaft which I just passed off as grip solvent, but then I remembered I didn't have them put a grip on it. I looked alittle closer when I got home and I think it may have been epoxy or something. I tried cleaning it with grip solvent and the shaft is fine but the crown def has some dried epoxy on it. It looks almost like a bunch of matte cirlces with fingerprints in them sporadic on the head and around the crown where the hosel meets it looks like a swirl as if a towel had been used to wipe it off but it left an awful residue. Any help to get it off would be alot of help. I am thinking acetone but dont want to ruin the finish on the crown. Also maybe just scratching it off. I would rather not take it back and complain, instead just fix it at home and never go back there. So anything will help.

Thanks

9* Taylor Made 2016 M1 430 Aldila Rogue MAX
[size=4]15* and 19* TaylorMade 2016 M1 [/size]Kuro Kage TiNi Silver 70
[size=4]19* Titleist 818 h2 Diamana D+ 90[/size]
[size=4]4-PW MP64 KBS C Taper
52*, 56*, 60* Cleveland 588 Tour Action DG S400[/size]
34" Scotty Cameron Seleect Newport M1 350g
34" Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 350g
[size=4]34" Scotty Cameron Studio Style 2.5 330g
34" Odyssey Works Versa V Line 350g[/size]

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I already have all of that. I do alot of club work just never got the confidence to do a wood shaft for some reason.

9* Taylor Made 2016 M1 430 Aldila Rogue MAX
[size=4]15* and 19* TaylorMade 2016 M1 [/size]Kuro Kage TiNi Silver 70
[size=4]19* Titleist 818 h2 Diamana D+ 90[/size]
[size=4]4-PW MP64 KBS C Taper
52*, 56*, 60* Cleveland 588 Tour Action DG S400[/size]
34" Scotty Cameron Seleect Newport M1 350g
34" Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 350g
[size=4]34" Scotty Cameron Studio Style 2.5 330g
34" Odyssey Works Versa V Line 350g[/size]

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OK Goo Gone worked a bit but still there....on to the Acetone...

9* Taylor Made 2016 M1 430 Aldila Rogue MAX
[size=4]15* and 19* TaylorMade 2016 M1 [/size]Kuro Kage TiNi Silver 70
[size=4]19* Titleist 818 h2 Diamana D+ 90[/size]
[size=4]4-PW MP64 KBS C Taper
52*, 56*, 60* Cleveland 588 Tour Action DG S400[/size]
34" Scotty Cameron Seleect Newport M1 350g
34" Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 350g
[size=4]34" Scotty Cameron Studio Style 2.5 330g
34" Odyssey Works Versa V Line 350g[/size]

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Yeah no good near the ferrule. Q Tip and acetone in small amounts.

9* Taylor Made 2016 M1 430 Aldila Rogue MAX
[size=4]15* and 19* TaylorMade 2016 M1 [/size]Kuro Kage TiNi Silver 70
[size=4]19* Titleist 818 h2 Diamana D+ 90[/size]
[size=4]4-PW MP64 KBS C Taper
52*, 56*, 60* Cleveland 588 Tour Action DG S400[/size]
34" Scotty Cameron Seleect Newport M1 350g
34" Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 350g
[size=4]34" Scotty Cameron Studio Style 2.5 330g
34" Odyssey Works Versa V Line 350g[/size]

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Dried epoxy on the crown (any painted surface) can be a real problem. Acetone might just eat away at the clear coat and paint. Try rubbing the affected area against a cloth. In the past, when I encountered this issue, I have had some success in rubbing it on my jeans (thigh area) since denim seems to have the right texture and I can easily vary the pressure. The heat generated is usually enough to break the bond without damaging the head. Heat from a heat gun or torch seems to be too much heat for this kind of work.

I don't think it will work on epoxy that has fully cured but works well on epoxy that has set but not fully cured (one day vs a week later). Depending on how hard you have to rub, you might have buff out the finish.

I hope you made sure that they know that there were issues with the repair job and if you can't fix it, they need to make it right for you.

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Ping i20 3 Hyb 707H Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-PW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
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MCC Align Midsize

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That's inexcusable from a clubmaker with any competence. This is exactly the type of thing the led me to doing my own club work for the most part.

This is a tip I got from someone else that actually works well. Take an old credit card and very gently use the sharp edge to scrape off the epoxy. This works well for very thin layers like fingerprints.

For drips or larger blobs that are cured on areas like an iron or wood hosel, you can tap on the epoxy with a small hammer, which creates enough of a compressive stress on the epoxy to break the bond with the surface. That will allow you to scrape it off.

If for some reason you happen to leave any marks on the clear coat, you can use a little auto paint/clear coat Scratch Out or similar product.

Taylormade r11s 9 Penley Stealth 70x 44.5" D-3 ------> Taylormade 16 M1 8.5 GD AD TP6x 44.0" D3 [s]PX Hzrdus Black 75 6.0 44.5" D-3[/s]
Nickent 3DX Pro 14 MRC Diamana WB 83s
Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro 18 Grafalloy CNote ProtoX
Mizuno MP62 DG x-100 Sensicore D-4 3-pw ---------> Ping i200 DG120 S3 D-3 +1/4" Red 4-U.
Vokey SM6 56-14/60-04M DG x-100 Sensicore 1xss D-5 ------------> Vokey SM6 56/10 60/4M DG 120 S300 35" D-5
Scotty Golo

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MacGuiar's Cleaner Wax, (car wax),and some elbow grease is your best bet if you don't want to damage the painted surface. Use a terrycloth towel with the wax to generate some heat while rubbing.

:rolleyes:

[b]What's in Bobcat's Bag? (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)[/b]

Driver: TM 2015 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s (tipped 1/2")
Fairway: TM Tour-iussue V-Steel 15* 3W - 43.25" Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff
Hybrid Fairway: TM Rescue Fairway 15* '3-Strong'- 42.75" Fujikura VP-90 Stiff
Hybrids: TM Rescue-Mid TP's 19*(3H) & 22*(4H) - Fujikura Vista Pro 90 Stiff
Driving Irons: TM TP UDI's 16* (#1) & 20* (#3) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Shafts
Irons: TM 2015 SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff Flex Steel
Hybrid Wedges: Cleveland 2011 Niblicks - 42*PW /49*DW / 56*SW - Stock Steel
Wedge: 2011 Cleveland CG-16 Black Pearl 58*/8* (SW/LW) - Stock Steel Shaft
Putter: Bettinardi BBX-81 Blade - 35" Bettinardi Stock Steel Putter Shaft
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