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Lead Tape, does it work?


adb67

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Driver - M2/KuroKage xstiff
3 wood - TS2 16.5/KuroKage xstiff
Hybrids - Titleist 918 3/4
Irons - Mizuno 223, Modus 105 Stiff
Wedges - Vokey SM8 - 51, 56, 60
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You will read numerous articles, like the one linked by the other poster, that will tell you lead tape makes no difference. Using the tenants of science and physics, a little tape here and there should not vary the ball flight. However...

 

Every club in my bag has lead tape applied. The game is 90% mental and the other 10% is all in your head. Hence, if you believe it will work... If you believe that tape makes a difference... it will!!!!

 

I use lead tape on my irons simply to fine tune the swing weight. I like a little heavier swing weight and I can tweak each iron to the exact swingweight I believe I need. Is my skill factor good enough to feel the difference between D2 and D2.5? No! Is my mind going to have more confidence in my iron game when I know each iron is tweaked to within .25 swingweight of where I want it? Certainly!!!

 

The use of lead tape on the driver to enhance ball flight does work! I do not believe you can appreciably elevate or lower trajectory with lead tape. However, especially as the size of the clubheads have grown, lead on the heel or toe can and will allow the clubface to close at a different speed. If you want to promote a draw/hook bias, add 3 to 4 grams at, or near, the heel. Hold the club lightly and allow it to "pendelum" swing. You will feel the toe closing past the heel. If you want to promote a fade bias, add the weight to the toe. The toe will close a tad bit slower and you can work the ball left to right.

 

Notice I have talked about fade/draw bias and promoting a left to right or right to left ball flight. This will work if... if your swing characteristics are fairly sound. If you have great swing flaws, no amount of lead tape will change those swing flaws. Here's what I mean. If you come over the top, with the driver, and the clubface is moving dramatically out to in, lead tape will not change that. Lead tape may turn the huge slice into more of a pull, but the tape will not cure your over the top move. Likewise, if you "hook the snot" out of the ball due to a hook-faced driver or a dramatic in to out swing path, the tape will not cure either. The tape on the toe can allow the 10 yard, controlled, draw to be worked into a staight or slightly faded ball flight.

 

Sorry, I've rambled on long enough. As with many aspects of this great game, there is no hard and fast rule like 2 grams equals "x" degrees of change in the clubhead angle as it contacts the ball. "Your mileage will vary", depending upon your game and your swing.

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IMO it does do something......just don't add it to a composite club, I added one of the bigger pieces with the foam tape on it to the back of my comp 3-wood and after 2 hits it cracked the composite about a 1/4" back from where the face meets the composite crown.

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In summary, lead tape DOES WORK...if you're looking to adjust the swingweight. But as far as changing ball flight, you have to add a boatload of lead tape to the heel area of the clubhead to make it draw-biased. This will increase the swingweight of the club substantially, probably to the point of reducing your swingspeed, and screwing with your swing's tempo.

 

Bigger driver clubheads are supposedly more difficult to square through impact because the center of gravity is farther away from the hosel/shaft. I don't know that I buy into that, but it's something I've heard/read.

 

The OEM's do make drivers that are intended to have a draw bias, so you could just buy a new club: FT-3, TaylorMade R7, R5, Titleist 983K. Most Cobras are designed with draw bias too. Some are offset, some have closed faces, and I imagine most have draw-biased internal weighting. But I'm not sure about that.

 

If I were you, I'd look into shortening the driver you have down to 44" or 44.5"... as this will reduce your swingweight by 6 or 3 swingweight points, respectively, and probably improve your consistency (while not affecting distance signficantly). And then play with the lead tape if you want, you'll have some swingweight-room to play with. You might want to get a crude swingweight scale (~50 bucks). If that doesn't induce draws, try lessons.

 

Or try closing your stance slightly by moving your back foot away from the ball an inch or two, and trying to hit the inside dimple.

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In summary, lead tape DOES WORK...if you're looking to adjust the swingweight. But as far as changing ball flight, you have to add a boatload of lead tape to the heel area of the clubhead to make it draw-biased. This will increase the swingweight of the club substantially, probably to the point of reducing your swingspeed, and screwing with your swing's tempo.

 

Bigger driver clubheads are supposedly more difficult to square through impact because the center of gravity is farther away from the hosel/shaft. I don't know that I buy into that, but it's something I've heard/read.

 

The OEM's do make drivers that are intended to have a draw bias, so you could just buy a new club: FT-3, TaylorMade R7, R5, Titleist 983K. Most Cobras are designed with draw bias too. Some are offset, some have closed faces, and I imagine most have draw-biased internal weighting. But I'm not sure about that.

 

If I were you, I'd look into shortening the driver you have down to 44" or 44.5"... as this will reduce your swingweight by 6 or 3 swingweight points, respectively, and probably improve your consistency (while not affecting distance signficantly). And then play with the lead tape if you want, you'll have some swingweight-room to play with. You might want to get a crude swingweight scale (~50 bucks). If that doesn't induce draws, try lessons.

 

Or try closing your stance slightly by moving your back foot away from the ball an inch or two, and trying to hit the inside dimple.

 

 

Absolutely on the money! Lead tape is something I use a lot. However, it can only realistically be used to alter swingweight and NOTHING ELSE. You would really need to be sticking around 10 or more grams at the extremes of a club to get any real difference, and this would make the club totally unbalanced as you cant remove 10 grams from somewhere else.

 

If you are mad about manipulating ball flight, go and buy one of the TM movable weight drivers or fairways. Sadly though, spending 500 dollars on a driver is unlikely to change your swing plane or give you more consistency!

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