Grip Alignment Marks - Align to what?

[H-Blade]

To what portion of the club are grip alignment marks intended to align to??? My guess is if a line was extended from the marks on the grips it would intersect the bottom face of the club??? Anybody know the answer???

 

 

 

 

[nitram]

For the majority of folks, the alignment marks should be at 12:00 on the shaft when the face is square to the line.

[hayzooos]

Nitram would be correct, they're made so as you grip your club, you can square the face up just by aligning your hands to the grip. Here's a question I have thought...if i'm doing my own regripping and I want to align them to square as usual; can I take a level and vertically align the face to square and go from there? I've always put my own grips on label down because if it was just a bit off, it would bug the crap out of me.

However, I'm wondering if using a vertical level on the face would be the best way to go. Thoughts?

[lobub]

[quote name='hayzooos' timestamp='1289844093' post='2791467']
Nitram would be correct, they're made so as you grip your club, you can square the face up just by aligning your hands to the grip. Here's a question I have thought...if i'm doing my own regripping and I want to align them to square as usual; can I take a level and vertically align the face to square and go from there? I've always put my own grips on label down because if it was just a bit off, it would bug the crap out of me.

However, I'm wondering if using a vertical level on the face would be the best way to go. Thoughts?


[/quote]

Not sure how you would do that with a level since each club has different lofts and lies. I've read on another thread about using a laser level that shoots beams out of both ends to line up the grooves on the face with the grip. Going to try this at some point since I have all the tools at home. Whenever I get to a regripping project, I'll try and post pics if I'm successful.

[nitram]

Either draw you a vertical line on the wall or use a corner of the floor. A vertical line 0-180* is as true as any level and a helluva lot easier to deal with. jm.02

[hayzooos]

[quote name='lobub' timestamp='1289844460' post='2791482']
[quote name='hayzooos' timestamp='1289844093' post='2791467']
Nitram would be correct, they're made so as you grip your club, you can square the face up just by aligning your hands to the grip. Here's a question I have thought...if i'm doing my own regripping and I want to align them to square as usual; can I take a level and vertically align the face to square and go from there? I've always put my own grips on label down because if it was just a bit off, it would bug the crap out of me.

However, I'm wondering if using a vertical level on the face would be the best way to go. Thoughts?


[/quote]

Not sure how you would do that with a level since each club has different lofts and lies. I've read on another thread about using a laser level that shoots beams out of both ends to line up the grooves on the face with the grip. Going to try this at some point since I have all the tools at home. Whenever I get to a regripping project, I'll try and post pics if I'm successful.
[/quote]

I was thinking about putting the level right against the leading edge of the face. It's not perfectly straight but I figure you should be able to get the center part of it against the level and go from there. I know a video would certainly help in describing what I'm thinking about. Again, this is the biggest reason I put alignment anything on a grip (words, aids, whatever) on the underside of the grip.

You would put the club in the vice as it was going to be played, with the toe pointing up towards the ceiling. Put the level (using the vertical part of it of course) against the leading edge and get it straight, so technically the leading edge would be straight up and down, making me think this would then be square.

[hayzooos]

Nitram - you posted as I was writing...good call on the whole corner thing. WAY easier.

[mablax12]

[quote name='hayzooos' timestamp='1289847941' post='2791574']
[quote name='lobub' timestamp='1289844460' post='2791482']
[quote name='hayzooos' timestamp='1289844093' post='2791467']
Nitram would be correct, they're made so as you grip your club, you can square the face up just by aligning your hands to the grip. Here's a question I have thought...if i'm doing my own regripping and I want to align them to square as usual; can I take a level and vertically align the face to square and go from there? I've always put my own grips on label down because if it was just a bit off, it would bug the crap out of me.

However, I'm wondering if using a vertical level on the face would be the best way to go. Thoughts?


[/quote]

Not sure how you would do that with a level since each club has different lofts and lies. I've read on another thread about using a laser level that shoots beams out of both ends to line up the grooves on the face with the grip. Going to try this at some point since I have all the tools at home. Whenever I get to a regripping project, I'll try and post pics if I'm successful.
[/quote]

I was thinking about putting the level right against the leading edge of the face. It's not perfectly straight but I figure you should be able to get the center part of it against the level and go from there. I know a video would certainly help in describing what I'm thinking about. Again, this is the biggest reason I put alignment anything on a grip (words, aids, whatever) on the underside of the grip.

You would put the club in the vice as it was going to be played, with the toe pointing up towards the ceiling. Put the level (using the vertical part of it of course) against the leading edge and get it straight, so technically the leading edge would be straight up and down, making me think this would then be square.
[/quote]

Know this is real old, but interesting thought with the level technique is that you might align the level with the bottom groove instead of the leading edge. This will ensure that the line is straight and true. Another $.02, but for what it's worth. There are also a number of distance lasers that are fairly inexpensive (sub $30) that might assist with this. Some even shoot out crosshairs so you can get the perpendicular on a putter or driver alignment etc.

[brucemiller]

Use the alignment marks to make sure the grip is perpendicular to a square face. The bottom groove is what you need to focus on. The biggest challenge is not installing the grip but making sure the clubface is clamped in square. You'll also want to make sure the Golf Pride logo is straight on the top of the club in line with the alignment marks. Putter grips with a flat paddle can be pressed up against a door flat once installed and that will instantly tell you if the face is square. Works very well with plumber neck putters, not so great with center shafted. Best. Bruce

[WalleyeDave]

I'm going to save everyone some time here. Just get grips with no alignment marks. Please don't take offense just my opinion.

[JimNewton]

To get the face dead square, you need accurate loft and lie measurements, a digital level, and the formula: face angle = 1 / tan(lie) * loft. (Make sure your in deg mode...) If you set the level cube to that number with it placed parallel to the scorelines that blade is square. You can't just use 90 as the level tips back a little bit on the blade, as a function of the loft and lie of the club. You also need to ensure the shaft is level first.

Then the problem is getting a good mark at exactly 12:00. I have yet to figure that out. A centering head might be of use but there's not one with a level and a marking guide... surely there's an easy solution I am missing, or I may have invented something there. Patent pending on that ... don't steal my idea, unless you can make me one first.

So, why would anyone bother with this, why not just eyeball it. Sure, I still do that. I have a yardstick hanging on the wall in front of the vise that I've eyeballed against for years.

The reason is A) I'm injured and have nothing better to do but over think things like this, and B) I have been looking for a good process for making ribbed grips using a guitar string. I do not use air so I want to get it exactly right the first time every time. I've verified that function with the level, it looks really good, but I can't figure out how to get a line at 12:00. I would actually want the rib a little off center (actual angle TBD by hitting balls), so I'd just tip the blade shut by that amount using the level, but still marking at 12:00.

Even putters have loft and lie, the last putter grip I installed I ignorantly just set the level to 90 ... that grip is still on there about 0.8 deg closed.

I can't do trig anymore (obviously) so I somehow got lucky and found that formula from one of Tom's old newsletters here: [url="http://wishongolf.com/etech/archive/2014-2/marchapril-2014/#6"]http://wishongolf.com/etech/archive/2014-2/marchapril-2014/#6[/url]

[Kelco]

I agree with you Walleye. I don't really understand this "obsession" with the alignment of grips. I have never even considered the grip when aligning the club on a shot. Here's an idea -- point the face of the club at the target. You're done. (Of course putter grips with a flat side to them are a different story.)

[WalleyeDave]

[quote name='JimNewton' timestamp='1447291382' post='12586776']
To get the face dead square, you need accurate loft and lie measurements, a digital level, and the formula: face angle = 1 / tan(lie) * loft. (Make sure your in deg mode...) If you set the level cube to that number with it placed parallel to the scorelines that blade is square. You can't just use 90 as the level tips back a little bit on the blade, as a function of the loft and lie of the club. You also need to ensure the shaft is level first.

Then the problem is getting a good mark at exactly 12:00. I have yet to figure that out. A centering head might be of use but there's not one with a level and a marking guide... surely there's an easy solution I am missing, or I may have invented something there. Patent pending on that ... don't steal my idea, unless you can make me one first.

So, why would anyone bother with this, why not just eyeball it. Sure, I still do that. I have a yardstick hanging on the wall in front of the vise that I've eyeballed against for years.

The reason is A) I'm injured and have nothing better to do but over think things like this, and B) I have been looking for a good process for making ribbed grips using a guitar string. I do not use air so I want to get it exactly right the first time every time. I've verified that function with the level, it looks really good, but I can't figure out how to get a line at 12:00. I would actually want the rib a little off center (actual angle TBD by hitting balls), so I'd just tip the blade shut by that amount using the level, but still marking at 12:00.

Even putters have loft and lie, the last putter grip I installed I ignorantly just set the level to 90 ... that grip is still on there about 0.8 deg closed.

I can't do trig anymore (obviously) so I somehow got lucky and found that formula from one of Tom's old newsletters here: [url="http://wishongolf.com/etech/archive/2014-2/marchapril-2014/#6"]http://wishongolf.co...chapril-2014/#6[/url]
[/quote]You really need to have Ping put your grips on. I hear they do a pretty good job for Bubba.

[ronsc1985]

Putting the grips on with the alignment marks and/or logo facing up is just asking for trouble. What happens is you start to look at the lines/logo instead of the clubface to target alignment. It's just easier to put the markings face down, then you don't see them.

Reminder grips are another story. Here the alignment matters but their optimal orientation may not be straight for any particular player.

What it all comes down to is can you align the clubface with a fixed relationship to the target line you are trying to attain. If you can't do this no amount of fiddling with the alignment lines and/or logo will bail you out.

[nbg352]

I use the straight edge of a floor tile or the straight edge of a carpet to align the leading edge of irons and putters and the top line of woods and hybrids square. Very easy and accurate.

[Manz60]

when you install the shaft, make sure the clubface is square and the shaft is vertical, aligning the "In" from True Tempers "Made [b][u]In[/u][/b] USA" on the [u]top of the shaft[/u].

then when installing the grip, the shaft in the vise aligns the shaft vertical so just make sure the face is square to the target line. Install the hash marks and Golf Pride Logo again to [u]the top of the shaft[/u].

to find the 12:00 position of the hosel, lay the clubface face down on a flat surface. Mark the point at which the hosel touches the flat surface. 90° from that point is[u] the top of the hosel[/u].

Hope this helped
M60