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Paint fill 101


HuckleBogey_Finn

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OK, a couple things...

 

First, spray? Just take a stick or q tip or whatever, and apply it in a lump to where you can no longer see the paint.

 

Then, let it dry overnight.

 

If it doesn't just come off with a toothbrush in the morning, I'll eat my hat.

 

Back to spray... it's a goopy gel. Right? Don't tell me they have a new product...

 

I've read online to use the spray? I've never done this before, and I figured spray would be easier. I guess I can return this and get the tub of gel or whatever.

 

Also, after posting last night, I decided to try again. I sprayed both my 56 and 52 down, left them out all night, and scrubbed again this morning. They were covered/soaking from 10pm until 7:30am.

 

 

Still, absolutely nothing. That's 10.5-11 hours of soaking with Citristrip and scrubbing with a tooth brush. I'm bamboozled and perplexed.

 

The 56 degree is reacting a little better to

 

But still, at this rate, it would take me about 5 days & nights of waiting to get it fully clean. I must be really dumb, because I haven't read about anyone else having such an issue.

I got my best results from simply filling up a bowl with nail polish remover, and sitting the club head in there for 45-60 minutes. Some of the paint came out in its own and some I took either a screw with a sharp point or even a fish hook depending on how thin the lettering is. Might take a couple tries and some knuckle grease but it got the job done.
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lol I don't have to wait more than 20 minutes with aforementioned stuff Rustoleum I use.

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Still, absolutely nothing. That's 10.5-11 hours of soaking with Citristrip and scrubbing with a tooth brush. I'm bamboozled and perplexed.

 

But still, at this rate, it would take me about 5 days & nights of waiting to get it fully clean. I must be really dumb, because I haven't read about anyone else having such an issue.

 

Not sure what to tell you as I just globbed in on the paint and let it do its thing. After several hours it was coming up slightly and after about 12 hours (continuous) everything was floating in the gel. The edges of the gel was dried out so I'm not sure if that's an indication you can use for timing. I suppose it might help to slightly scratch up the paint to let the CitriStrip seep in better but obviously do this at your own risk.

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So I returned the spray and exchanged it for the gel. Gel works WAY better. Covered all the paint completely, and I gave it a shot after 2 hours. It got rid of all the green paint fill, but didn't really make a ding in the white stuff yet. I'm playing in a tournament tomorrow morning, so I'm just going to wait until Sunday evening to let 'er soak all day. I'll get there eventually!

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So the top 2 brands of paint I've seen over and over again are Testors and Tamiya. Where exactly are you getting these at?! Both websites list Michaels and Hobby Lobby as vendors, but nowhere local carries them. Have been in both Michaels and Hobby lobby.

 

Also, are we talking strictly acrylic paints? There aren't many options on Amazon, but I did find a color of the Testors I want, but it says it's enamel paint. Is that okay to use?

 

Hobby Lobby has Testors. You need to look in the model car section.

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So I returned the spray and exchanged it for the gel. Gel works WAY better. Covered all the paint completely, and I gave it a shot after 2 hours. It got rid of all the green paint fill, but didn't really make a ding in the white stuff yet. I'm playing in a tournament tomorrow morning, so I'm just going to wait until Sunday evening to let 'er soak all day. I'll get there eventually!

 

Glad to hear that's working better for you. Wouldn't have guessed the spray would be different than the bottle. Also, on the subject of Testors paint, at my Michael's it's not in the paint section but on the other side of the store in the model section. It took me a couple trips to realize that. Yours might be the same.

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^^^

 

Thanks for the head's up. I went back to Michaels and found all the Testors stuff. Picked this up:

 

I wasn't sure what to choose between acrylic vs enamel. The "water wash-up" kinda scares me on this box though.

Supposedly enamel is tougher than acrylic so that's what I got. But I don't have enough of a sample size to give any advice there either way.
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Then, let it dry overnight.

 

If it doesn't just come off with a toothbrush in the morning, I'll eat my hat.

 

*Banging fists on a table while chating* EAT THAT HAT! EAT THAT HAT!

 

In all seriousness, I applied the gel at 6:45pm last night. Went out for a jog this morning, and came back to remove the gel and scrub on the paint at 8:45am. So 14 hours of sitting/soaking/etc. Here are the results.

 

fKXoyeyl.jpg

 

m1pTVjel.jpg

 

I scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush. I scored & scraped it with an Xacto knife. I rubbed it with acetone on a rag. STILL isn't coming out. The green paint came out easy enough, but that white paint seriously won't budge. You think a 14 hour soak with all the scratching and rubbing I did afterwards would yield better results than that. Maybe the MD3 just has some insane paint fill going on from the factory.

 

Here's how my gel was applied.

 

mYWKoa3h.jpg

 

I bought a Maltby head to test out, and the white fill in the number came out SUPER SUPER easy. So I'm starting to think it's just the MD3's specifically that are putting up such a fight.

 

SQ9pLwIh.jpg

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Then, let it dry overnight.

 

If it doesn't just come off with a toothbrush in the morning, I'll eat my hat.

 

*Banging fists on a table while chating* EAT THAT HAT! EAT THAT HAT!

 

In all seriousness, I applied the gel at 6:45pm last night. Went out for a jog this morning, and came back to remove the gel and scrub on the paint at 8:45am. So 14 hours of sitting/soaking/etc. Here are the results.

 

fKXoyeyl.jpg

 

m1pTVjel.jpg

 

I scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush. I scored & scraped it with an Xacto knife. I rubbed it with acetone on a rag. STILL isn't coming out. The green paint came out easy enough, but that white paint seriously won't budge. You think a 14 hour soak with all the scratching and rubbing I did afterwards would yield better results than that. Maybe the MD3 just has some insane paint fill going on from the factory.

 

Here's how my gel was applied.

 

mYWKoa3h.jpg

 

I bought a Maltby head to test out, and the white fill in the number came out SUPER SUPER easy. So I'm starting to think it's just the MD3's specifically that are putting up such a fight.

 

SQ9pLwIh.jpg

DAMN! took the paint right off the table.

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Then, let it dry overnight.

 

If it doesn't just come off with a toothbrush in the morning, I'll eat my hat.

 

*Banging fists on a table while chating* EAT THAT HAT! EAT THAT HAT!

 

In all seriousness, I applied the gel at 6:45pm last night. Went out for a jog this morning, and came back to remove the gel and scrub on the paint at 8:45am. So 14 hours of sitting/soaking/etc. Here are the results.

 

fKXoyeyl.jpg

 

m1pTVjel.jpg

 

I scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush. I scored & scraped it with an Xacto knife. I rubbed it with acetone on a rag. STILL isn't coming out. The green paint came out easy enough, but that white paint seriously won't budge. You think a 14 hour soak with all the scratching and rubbing I did afterwards would yield better results than that. Maybe the MD3 just has some insane paint fill going on from the factory.

 

Here's how my gel was applied.

 

mYWKoa3h.jpg

 

I bought a Maltby head to test out, and the white fill in the number came out SUPER SUPER easy. So I'm starting to think it's just the MD3's specifically that are putting up such a fight.

 

SQ9pLwIh.jpg

DAMN! took the paint right off the table.

 

I've had the same issues with removing white paint from several different manufacturers.

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  • 1 month later...

Then, let it dry overnight.

 

If it doesn't just come off with a toothbrush in the morning, I'll eat my hat.

 

*Banging fists on a table while chating* EAT THAT HAT! EAT THAT HAT!

 

In all seriousness, I applied the gel at 6:45pm last night. Went out for a jog this morning, and came back to remove the gel and scrub on the paint at 8:45am. So 14 hours of sitting/soaking/etc. Here are the results.

 

fKXoyeyl.jpg

 

m1pTVjel.jpg

 

I scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush. I scored & scraped it with an Xacto knife. I rubbed it with acetone on a rag. STILL isn't coming out. The green paint came out easy enough, but that white paint seriously won't budge. You think a 14 hour soak with all the scratching and rubbing I did afterwards would yield better results than that. Maybe the MD3 just has some insane paint fill going on from the factory.

 

Here's how my gel was applied.

 

mYWKoa3h.jpg

 

I bought a Maltby head to test out, and the white fill in the number came out SUPER SUPER easy. So I'm starting to think it's just the MD3's specifically that are putting up such a fight.

 

SQ9pLwIh.jpg

DAMN! took the paint right off the table.

 

I was in the AF and worked on planes for a while when I got out. I was a sheet metal fabricator but we did stripping and painting as well, when you have tough paint you can use a heat gun alone or stripper and then apply a head gun carefully and that will get even the toughest paint out

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Then, let it dry overnight.

 

If it doesn't just come off with a toothbrush in the morning, I'll eat my hat.

 

*Banging fists on a table while chating* EAT THAT HAT! EAT THAT HAT!

 

In all seriousness, I applied the gel at 6:45pm last night. Went out for a jog this morning, and came back to remove the gel and scrub on the paint at 8:45am. So 14 hours of sitting/soaking/etc. Here are the results.

 

 

 

 

 

I scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush. I scored & scraped it with an Xacto knife. I rubbed it with acetone on a rag. STILL isn't coming out. The green paint came out easy enough, but that white paint seriously won't budge. You think a 14 hour soak with all the scratching and rubbing I did afterwards would yield better results than that. Maybe the MD3 just has some insane paint fill going on from the factory.

 

Here's how my gel was applied.

 

 

 

I bought a Maltby head to test out, and the white fill in the number came out SUPER SUPER easy. So I'm starting to think it's just the MD3's specifically that are putting up such a fight.

 

 

DAMN! took the paint right off the table.

 

I was in the AF and worked on planes for a while when I got out. I was a sheet metal fabricator but we did stripping and painting as well, when you have tough paint you can use a heat gun alone or stripper and then apply a head gun carefully and that will get even the toughest paint out

 

Just make sure that heat isn't an open flame - that would not end well

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How are you guys doing paint fill on a sight line? Every time I try it I get brush strokes and it looks like crap.

i use a toothpick and drop the paint along the line, take my time so i don't get it outside the sight line -- works every time.

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How are you guys doing paint fill on a sight line? Every time I try it I get brush strokes and it looks like crap.

i use a toothpick and drop the paint along the line, take my time so i don't get it outside the sight line -- works every time.

 

Same. I don't ever use a brush. Toothpick for all paint fill.

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Has anybody ever used an acrylic paint marker for paint fill purposes?? The one linked below has a 1.5mm tip, which seems sufficient enough to fill in numbers on an iron while leaving minimal required touch up/clean up work afterwards??

 

1.5MM tip acrylic marker

 

I use the Elmer's paint markers from Wally, they are like 2 bucks.

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