Paint fill 101

[matchavez]

Just finished stripping the paint on my Never Compromise Gambler Royal. I used zip strip to remove the paint. It is a gel and took the paint right off without damaging the finish. I really like the naked look and

I may keep it this way or just do the logos in blue and white.

 

Stripper

 

 

Before

 

 

 

After

 

 

 

First attempt at Paint fill. I like the colors but may have to strip and retry later this winter as some of the white letters are not as good as I would like.

 

 

 

I'd have so done Black and Red...

[GripRight]

Is this testors pen for bottom groove / scoring line on iron heads the best move? Or is the testors enamel GLOSS pen a “no no”? Thanks!! https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Enamel-Paint-Marker-Gloss-White/dp/B008CVNY34/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=56110247455&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW7XLyn9EeXMBZ28DZkUN5eeJAqfnu47Qwl4GfiWuukP1-P_9Xsd4bxoCvjoQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274725446594&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1025587&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1923402995539094158&hvtargid=kwd-300897197173&hydadcr=15375_9862859&keywords=testor+paint+marker&qid=1557370444&s=gateway&sr=8-5

[benno_r]

I have a request for Translucent Purple paintfill. Tamiya don't have it as stock, I assume it's a mix of red and blue. Anyone ever mixed up Trans Purple, and possibly have a recipe?

 

 

[Flashwurks]

> @benno_r said:

> I have a request for Translucent Purple paintfill. Tamiya don't have it as stock, I assume it's a mix of red and blue. Anyone ever mixed up Trans Purple, and possibly have a recipe?

>

>

>

 

In for this answer. Thats the exact color and opacity Im looking for as well.

[tenny352]

For those of you that have been using Testors enamel, is it holding up fine when you leave your clubs in a hot car? I just did some paint fill on my putter and after about 48 hours I decided that it should be good. It sat in a hot car all day and now I have a few ripples in the paint. Nothing major but I'll have to touch it up or redo it. I'm thinking once I go over it again I'll just leave it alone for a week for good measure.

[dave_79]

Quick question on cleanup after paintfill on a Scotty putter. . . .

 

How long do you wait to clean up the area around the letter cavities you have painted? I am sure since I did my last one a couple of years back that I've seen comments where people have wiped the area almost immediately after painting, whilst others have waited an hour or two before doing it, then others have waited a day or two. So which is best?

 

I ask because I just went to do cleanup about 48 hours after painting and was surprised how much q-tip fuzz seemed to embed itself in the deep milling on my black Select. Even though I wiped very carefully with cosmetic q-tip dipped in (but not soaked with) acetone, only going in one direction and using a fresh one with each wipe. I was not pressing hard into the cavities but just wiping across the top, yet I was surprised how messy it was. I have seen mention of folks using Kimwipes dipped in acetone for cleanup so maybe I will try that. Perhaps that will eliminate the fuzz.

 

Also I am having to re-do half the face letters due to bubbles. Using Tamiya acrylics (after dropping a tiny amount of acetone into the cavities first to help the paint spread out well). Is there a sweet spot in terms of both how long you stir the Tamiya paints for (I know not to shake the bottle), and then leave them to settle before painting? I find that the opaque colours need mixing for a good 2 minutes or they are too cloudy (especially X2 white), but I've only been leaving them 5-10 mins to settle after mixing, so I will probably try leaving 20 mins next time. Input from Tamiya users would be great. Thanks!

[payturb]

Thanks for the guide! I've always wanted to give a go at something like this myself.

[jgc9512ss]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but have a quick question. I’ve searched here and through google and haven’t had any luck finding the answer to my question. Has anyone stripped the blue cavity paint off the badges of JPX900 Hotmetals? I know the white is permanent, but would like to get rid of the blue. I have always just used acetone or industrial stripper on any other club I’ve done, but don’t want to have any issues stripping the finish off the badge or affecting the rubber underneath. Thanks in advance.

 

[Phireside]

looks like the step by step guide doesn't show on the new forum layout. can it be repaired

[txsndvl]

Lots of good discussion. Is there a clear winner for paint brand? Tamiya or Testors? Acryllic or other? Generally have clubs in heat and humidity...

[Yacuone]

 

Before I sell these off, figured I'd share last year's build.

[Mattyboi]

Does anyone have the original step-by-step instructions provided by @HuckleBogey_Finn? The original post only shows the first several paragraphs. Cheers!

[datkison]

ANYONE?

[Mattyboi]

Does anyone have the original step-by-step instructions provided by @HuckleBogey_Finn? The original post only shows the first several paragraphs. Cheers!

 

[Mattyboi]

Hey all. Sorry to post repetitively. The boredom of quarantine is really starting to set in. Does anyone have the original step-by-step instructions provided by @HuckleBogey_Finn? The original post only shows the first several paragraphs. Cheers!

[wcgolfer]

It can take up to a week to fully cure at room temperature. Regular usage is ok the next day but extreme heat will be a problem if not fully cured.