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Graphite pulls with ferrules still in tact???


LBlack14

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ferrules are cheap.. so I cut them off.. but if use low enough heat and weak epoxy (low melting point).. I can sometimes pull off the shaft without a puller.

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Well, in some instances (Callaway S2H2) there is no hosel to push on so there wouldn't be any need to cut the ferrule off before pulling the head, but then again those wouldn't have ferrules. With some of the tip adapters, you could use the threads on the end of the adapter to fasten a piece of metal to it then pull via the piece of metal instead of the top of the adapter, but there again a lot of those don't have ferrules. Can't think of any other instance that wouldn't involve someone pulling it off by hand, hard to get a straight pull that way, which I'm guessing is your concern.

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[quote name='LBlack14' timestamp='1341368861' post='5213992']
I'm wondering how you accomplish this? I stay away from any graphite pulls with the ferrules still in tact. Can somebody explain to me how this is accomplished without jeopardizing the integrity of the shaft?

Please enlighten me.

[/quote]

Assuming you are talking only about a steel shafted set of irons. . . . . . (because you can't really twist the heads off a graphite shaft set without fear of damaging the shafts - and you cannot save the ferrules if you have to use a "push the head off" type of shaft extractor)

1. Use only a butane torch to heat the hosel because it has a really small size flame that is lower in temp than propane and easy to keep away from the top of the hosel.

2. Take a paper towel and fold it continuously so it is only an inch to 2" wide and thus fairly thick. Soak it in water and do not wring it out - leave water dripping. Wrap it all the way around the ferrule so it extends say 1/8" on to the metal hosel of the head.

3. Heat the hosel with the butane flame tip keeping the flame moving all around the hosel and keeping the flame 1/4" at least away from the top of the hosel. Steam will come off the wet towel from the transfer of heat up the hosel, but you should be able to get the heads off without doing any damage whatsoever to the ferrules.

TOM

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Graphite pulls are risky at any time, and the ferrule being intact may or may not be an indication that improper procedure was used. There are two proper ways to remove a graphite shaft without disturbing the ferrule. As another poster mentioned, if it was installed in an adapter then the puller may have been working on a washer installed on the adapter screw. If not, then the clubhead may have been pushed off using one of the big tubes designed for Ping and Callaway heads, which will fit over many ferrules.

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I've come across some ferrules which aren't well-fixed onto the shaft or hosel, so that they can be pushed up the shaft by hand, out of the way of any puller. Personally, I don't use any additional epoxy to secure a ferrule, all that holds it is the small bit that oozes out during shaft installation, so if the collar of the ferrule is pretty tight to the hosel and shaft, there might not be much bond to deal with.

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[quote name='RookieBlue7' timestamp='1341497814' post='5220418']
Another thing to consider is if they saved the ferrule they likely used a much lower heat setting as well, so you'd likely know that the resin in the shaft wasn't compromised and the tip separating.
[/quote]

So how then did they push off the head without messing up the ferrule? I'm talking about graphite. Anybody who twists a head off graphite by hand, I want no part of that shaft regardless.

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[quote name='RookieBlue7' timestamp='1341398970' post='5215186']
Anything that's got an adapter could have the ferrule still in tact if one uses the method of putting a screw in the end of the adapter and using the screw as a leverage point.

Or one could warm it and slide the ferrule up then pull like normal.
[/quote]

If you heat the adapter then you ruin the andonized (sp?) finish.

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