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My Driver is Unhittable! Now what?


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I'm by no means a slow swinger, but I'm definitely nowhere near a gorilla that kills the ball. So here's the story...

 

My current driver is a Yonex Ezone Type 380 (The Ryo Ishikawa model) 10*. About a year ago, I had a used Fujikura Motore F3 70X shaft, so I decided to just throw it in the driver and give it a shot. Due to slight damage near the tip, it had to be tipped about .25" - .5". Since I tend to hit it a little low (probably due to a negative angle of attack), I figured a more mid launch and spin with a 10* head would work well. Well for some reason, the shaft just seemed to work well for me. It felt pretty smooth, and it would keep up with my swing even on hard swings. I've even managed to hit a few 340 yard drives this summer.

 

However, about a week ago, the shaft turned about 45* in the head. I must have melted the epoxy in the head from leaving my clubs in the trunk in the sun (I had no choice with this). I dropped the driver off at my local Golf Galaxy for the main club repair guy to reglue (who I'm pretty good friends with and who does good work). I picked the driver up yesterday and finally got to hit it at the range today. It seems that he must have tipped the shaft about half an inch, as the club now plays 45" instead of 45.5" and has a swingweight of about D1.5 instead of D3 like before. I know he didn't butt trim it, since the grip was left alone.

 

I took it to the range with one of my friends, and I literally couldn't get it off the ground. It felt incredibly board and I thought I would break my back just trying to swing it. I was hitting low pulls and snap hooks trying to get the shaft to move with me; keep in mind, I usually play a power fade but can sometimes shape a small draw when I really go after a drive. My friend suggested that it wasn't the extra tipping that did as much as the lighter swingweight, which tends to stiffen a shaft (something heavier will put more stress on and bend a shaft more).

 

I'm not sure what to do with my driver now... I'll have to ask the club builder what exactly he did when repairing my shaft. Maybe I was just having a bad day swinging, but it just seemed ridiculous that a driver I hit so well before is now almost unhittable for me. I wouldn't say I'm weak, as I average about 113-115 swing speed and can get up to over 170mph ball speeds. Yet, I just couldn't get this driver airborne... Do I just replace the shaft? Any suggestions for comparable shafts? I have an Ahina 60X incoming soon

TaylorMade SLDR 10.5˚, Kuro Kage Proto TiNi 70X
TaylorMade R7 TP 17.5˚, GD Prototype Model 902X OR TaylorMade SLDR 17˚ Kuro Kage Black Proto 80X
Titleist 712U 3i, Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura CB-501 (4, 5) & Miura MB-001 (6-PW), Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura Wedge Series 51˚, Nippon Modus3 120X
Fourteen RM-12 56˚, 60˚
Odyssey Tank Cruiser V-Line, Garsen Max

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[quote name='Naughty Mazz' timestamp='1374888881' post='7547410']
This thread is full or f*uark.
[/quote]

What do you mean?

TaylorMade SLDR 10.5˚, Kuro Kage Proto TiNi 70X
TaylorMade R7 TP 17.5˚, GD Prototype Model 902X OR TaylorMade SLDR 17˚ Kuro Kage Black Proto 80X
Titleist 712U 3i, Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura CB-501 (4, 5) & Miura MB-001 (6-PW), Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura Wedge Series 51˚, Nippon Modus3 120X
Fourteen RM-12 56˚, 60˚
Odyssey Tank Cruiser V-Line, Garsen Max

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[quote name='TheSecondZ' timestamp='1374889513' post='7547466']
[quote name='Naughty Mazz' timestamp='1374888881' post='7547410']
This thread is full or f*uark.
[/quote]

What do you mean?
[/quote]

Nevermind that post.

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Sounds like you should replace the shaft. If it works, keep it. Check out my last thread if you want my take on a similar situation.

[size=3][color=#ff0000][b]I'm a business/recreational golfer with a 100 MPH driver swing speed, and a 10 HC.[/b][/color][/size]

[size=3]Ping K15, 9*, Motore F3 70s | [/size][size=3]Titleist 915F, 15*, Blue 70s | [/size]T[size=3]itleist 915H, 18*, Rogue 85Hs [/size][size=3]| [/size]T[size=3]itleist 816H2, 23*, [/size][size=3]Speeder HB8.8[/size]
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[size=3]Golf Pride CP2 Pro Grips | [/size][size=3]Wilson Duo/Spin | [/size][size=3]Leupold GX-3i[/size]

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[quote name='dbogeyguy75' timestamp='1374890736' post='7547616']
Sounds like you should replace the shaft. If it works, keep it. Check out my last thread if you want my take on a similar situation.
[/quote]

I'm just hoping there's a way I can still salvage the driver without having to get a new shaft. Your situation is really unfortunate too... I'm just a little frustrated since I didn't want to make any changes to my gamer, but simply have it reglued.

[quote name='jewofgolf' timestamp='1374892222' post='7547796']
Add 3-6 grams of lead tape to get the old swingweight back (or more to soften it more). This is a simple problem. 1/2" isnt a lot of tipping, just tightens things up a bit and feels different.
[/quote]

I'll give that a shot! How much lead tape is 3-6 grams? 6-12 inches of lead tape?

TaylorMade SLDR 10.5˚, Kuro Kage Proto TiNi 70X
TaylorMade R7 TP 17.5˚, GD Prototype Model 902X OR TaylorMade SLDR 17˚ Kuro Kage Black Proto 80X
Titleist 712U 3i, Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura CB-501 (4, 5) & Miura MB-001 (6-PW), Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura Wedge Series 51˚, Nippon Modus3 120X
Fourteen RM-12 56˚, 60˚
Odyssey Tank Cruiser V-Line, Garsen Max

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I would bet that the original damage to the tip migrated up and he had to re-tip it. Still not a good choice IMO. You are between a rock and a hard place as that shaft is not going to get easier to hit even if you extend it back to the 45.5". It might help a bit, but not much. Sounds like it's new shaft time.

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Give the tape a chance before you re-shaft it. It's a cheap, easy thing to try.

I've tipped some shafts 1" and could barely tell. Others @ .5" and they were unplayable. All shaft/head/swing combos are differentb and react differently.

With the lead tape, I wouldn't worry too much about the SW but the feel.

I do this: Throw some equal length strips on the sole to get it above original SW and see what it feels like.

Then, as I get the feel I will start pulling tape off until it feels right. You can do this during a range session or over the course of several rounds.

It may not work at all, but it's only a few buck in tape and some time. It may even come out better.

Good luck!

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[quote]
My friend suggested that it wasn't the extra tipping that did as much as the lighter swingweight, which tends to stiffen a shaft (something heavier will put more stress on and bend a shaft more).
[/quote]

The lower swing weight (from the length reduction) certainly can effect the swing but it would not result in the shaft feeling stiffer or more boardy. More accurately It's the head weight, not swing weight, that can effect the stiffness of the shaft. In your case, it seems only the length changed but the head weight remained the same.

I can't imagine it would result in a full 1/2" difference but if the hossel was cleaned out much better than it was for the previous install, you can loose length through an increased insertion depth into the hossel. The end result is the same as tipping so it doesn't change the answers but it might effect how you might want to prep the replacement shaft.

If it was tipped more, the only really effective way to soften it back up is to add lots of weight to the head (~10+ gms) but that will result in a SW much heavier than you have been playing so could result in a club that's still just as unplayable.

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[quote name='Stuart G.' timestamp='1374914348' post='7548790']
[quote]
My friend suggested that it wasn't the extra tipping that did as much as the lighter swingweight, which tends to stiffen a shaft (something heavier will put more stress on and bend a shaft more).
[/quote]

The lower swing weight (from the length reduction) certainly can effect the swing but it would not result in the shaft feeling stiffer or more boardy. More accurately It's the head weight, not swing weight, that can effect the stiffness of the shaft. In your case, it seems only the length changed but the head weight remained the same.

I can't imagine it would result in a full 1/2" difference but if the hossel was cleaned out much better than it was for the previous install, you can loose length through an increased insertion depth into the hossel. The end result is the same as tipping so it doesn't change the answers but it might effect how you might want to prep the replacement shaft.

If it was tipped more, the only really effective way to soften it back up is to add lots of weight to the head (~10+ gms) but that will result in a SW much heavier than you have been playing so could result in a club that's still just as unplayable.
[/quote]

If you think that frequency is an indication of stiffness then length is more important than head weight. http://www.tutelman.com/golf/shafts/frequency.php

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It's a combo of the shorter shaft and secondarily the lighter sw that's your problem. Shorter shaft affecting arc rather than shaft profile. Arrow affecting injun.

In general, I've found shaft length affects playability more and tape affects feel more rather than the other way around.

Adding 1/2" is easy and not going to affect the shaft profile at all. I'd go back to your friend- tell him to get the length correct and you get a new grip to boot. Tape is even easier and you can do that yourself- that also may just do the trick.

FWIW I have a 9* 380 and replaced the original Elements MK with a VTS Black. Both are really great combinations in that head. The Black is just a great wind shaft. I'm not familiar with the F3 shaft. I used to play the Fuji VTLTs and Vista Tours a decade ago, dunno how they are with respect to F3.

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I bet the insertion depth has changed. That plays big with tip stiffness. Just look at the difference between a bore thru head vs a standard bore. I ha e seen stiff shafts play stiffer in a bore thru than a xstiff in blind bore. Could very well be the difference between why it feels and loads so much different.

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If the shaft has been tipped, it will definitely play stiffer. To remedy this (as others have suggested), add some weight to the head. Grab some lead tape and head to the range. Add small increments of lead tape to the head until you're satisfied with the feel and performance. Your clubmaker can replace the lead tape with hotmelt if you don't like the look.

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I don't think it's the shaft. You say you had it in the trunk and it got hot. My guess is that ALL the hotmelt has migrated to some weird position in the clubhead - high on the hosel side for instance, or the toe up near the face, which is making it impossible to feel where the head is. First step is to get it pretty hot - a hairdryer for a couple of minutes should do it, and then set it down in playing position and let the goo flow back where it most likely was. If your clubmaker is really good, he'll pull the head, measure CG, then heat the thing properly and let it cool, then re-measure CG to see if this is the issue.

If it is just the extra tipping he may be able to pull and short-insert to take away some of the stoutness.

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Okay, so I threw a bunch of lead tape on the driver until it was heavier than the previous swingweight. The shaft still felt really boardy and didn't move with my swing, although I was able to launch it a little bit higher. It probably didn't help that the driver was very heavy, so I took off some of the tape with still mediocre results. I may tinker by taking a little more off, but it just seems that the shaft plays too stiff overall. I may mess around with it more, but I'll just end up taking it back to the club builder and see if he can explain what he did when reinstalling the shaft. It's possible he didn't use a shim (the Yonex is a .350) and ended up inserting the shaft too deep somehow.

Maybe it's just time to get a new shaft though. I did like the Motore F3 a lot, and it seems that I can get a new one for fairly cheap ($50 or so), Other shafts that could possibly fit my swing profile seem to be:

Oban Kiyoshi Purple/White
Diamana Kaili/S+
Fubuki K
AD-DI
AD-BB
Fuji Fuel
Motore Speeder VC 6.1/7.1

TaylorMade SLDR 10.5˚, Kuro Kage Proto TiNi 70X
TaylorMade R7 TP 17.5˚, GD Prototype Model 902X OR TaylorMade SLDR 17˚ Kuro Kage Black Proto 80X
Titleist 712U 3i, Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura CB-501 (4, 5) & Miura MB-001 (6-PW), Nippon Modus3 120X
Miura Wedge Series 51˚, Nippon Modus3 120X
Fourteen RM-12 56˚, 60˚
Odyssey Tank Cruiser V-Line, Garsen Max

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