DIY Driver tune up / DIY fitting

[Puttersaurus Rex]

22 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

Correct to:
Heavy = Fat
Light = Thin

The hip rotation needs a trained eye. We all have some hip movement target line, its when this movement becomes "violent" (jump start the club), and the players hip rotation simply get out of timing for that reason, so he will struggle to get his hips into position with the right timing vs impact, so if timing seems difficult, pay extra attention to weight and how he turns the club on the top.
(over swinging = to low feedback of shaft and head weight - jump starting or to aggressive = too heavy or too stiff) 
 

Thank you! 

[hookie25]

Shortened Callaway Mavrik driver with Aldila Rogue White 130 70X from 45.5" to 44". Clubhead feels light, making better contact with good ball flight and losing about 25-30 yards. Looking to get back some yardage by adding lead tap to the head and to feel the head a bit more.

 

Question is, how much tape and where on the head to put it to really get the feel as close to original?

 

Thanks

 

[Howard_Jones]

1 hour ago, hookie25 said:

Shortened Callaway Mavrik driver with Aldila Rogue White 130 70X from 45.5" to 44". Clubhead feels light, making better contact with good ball flight and losing about 25-30 yards. Looking to get back some yardage by adding lead tap to the head and to feel the head a bit more.

 

Question is, how much tape and where on the head to put it to really get the feel as close to original?

 

Thanks

 

The first page is the answer to your question, and its NOT a "value" in grams...

[granata10]

Thank you @Howard_Jones for all of your knowledge and this thread. 
 

I started and found my length last night, it was kind of eye opening. 

45” driver 

 

44.5”

 

44”

 

Now I want to test for swingweight and shaft weight. Since they are related. Do you find the swingweight first and then explore shaft weight?  That was my plan, add weight to the head until I dial it in find SW and then take a little off the head add to the shaft and go from there. 
 

anyone have any suggestions?

[Stuart_G]

1 hour ago, granata10 said:

Now I want to test for swingweight and shaft weight. Since they are related. Do you find the swingweight first and then explore shaft weight?  That was my plan, add weight to the head until I dial it in find SW and then take a little off the head add to the shaft and go from there. 

 

anyone have any suggestions?

 

Fit for swing weight is dependent on shaft weight so ideally you'd be doing both at the same time.   e.g.  as you vary the shaft weight, you refit for swing weight at each shaft weight increment.

Edited February 28, 2021 by Stuart_G

[granata10]

44 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Fit for swing weight is dependent on shaft weight so ideally you'd be doing both at the same time.   e.g.  as you vary the shaft weight, you refit for swing weight at each shaft weight increment.

That’s what I thought you just put it better than I did. 

[Howard_Jones]

18 hours ago, granata10 said:

Thank you @Howard_Jones for all of your knowledge and this thread. 
 

I started and found my length last night, it was kind of eye opening. 

45” driver 

 

44.5”

 

44”

 

Now I want to test for swingweight and shaft weight. Since they are related. Do you find the swingweight first and then explore shaft weight?  That was my plan, add weight to the head until I dial it in find SW and then take a little off the head add to the shaft and go from there. 
 

anyone have any suggestions?

Stuart already gave you a reply, we do both shaft and head wgt at the same time (trial and error, add and remove)

Your new vs old impact position will be visible as gained distance, and if your normal club speed is 100, and you can measure how much its moved both higher and toe side, this chart can help you to estimate changes to carry and potential total. (eyeballing on your photos say 10-12 yards carry, 15-17 more total)

Edited March 1, 2021 by Howard_Jones

[Sisbuad]

Hi, new to the forum @Howard_Jones, many thanks for the initial post!! I'm going to try this today on the range, since I have very high spin with my driver with around 3,5K rpm (SS is 125 mph, -1,4 AoA, launch 11,3, Smash Factor 1,4, peak height 44,6 ) so I have to rule out bad impact before changing my driver, even though is pretty old (Driver is a Titleist D3 909 9 deg. with Aldila Vodoo X). With that low of a smash factor, could that be a bad LM reading due to off-centered hit? Could that be the reason for the high spin numbers? That should be a lower spin/higher launch part of the face...isn't it?

 

I did a preliminary testing with a marker and getting consistently the spot below. I can't pull the shaft to get the CG but I guess that is outside the green smiley. I got the spin numbers with a LM on a different range session than the impact marks.

 

 

Also, I would like to know if there is a DIY tune-up that could be done with irons...I have around 9k spin with a 7 iron and high launch (don't have the numbers). Playing a DG X100. I guess that, being the loft the main spec to affect the spin on the irons, is more difficult, is it?

 

Many thanks for all!!

Edited June 22, 2021 by Sisbuad

[Stuart_G]

Unfortunately Howard isn't able to spend much time answering questions any more.  But I'll give it a shot.

 

1 hour ago, Sisbuad said:

 With that low of a smash factor, could that be a bad LM reading due to off-centered hit?

 

Depends on the LM used so we'd need to know what model LM was used to get the numbers.

 

But impact high on the face generally reduces spin, not increase it.  Are those average numbers or are they the numbers for that one swing that left that mark?

 

 

1 hour ago, Sisbuad said:

Also, I would like to know if there is a DIY tune-up that could be done with irons...I have around 9k spin with a 7 iron and high launch (don't have the numbers). Playing a DG X100. I guess that, being the loft the main spec to affect the spin on the irons, is more difficult, is it?

 

In way - the fitting for shaft weight and swing weight will be the same for irons as it will be for the driver.   The main difference with irons is that length fitting is very different so you wouldn't use that part of the tutorial the same way.  Also, there is no real gear effect or buldge and role on the face with irons so the impact location wont have the same effect on the launch/spin.   In that case, high spin is all from high dynamic loft delivered - which is typically more of a swing issue (amount of shaft lean at impact) than an equipment one.   Same could be said for the driver in the case where there is high amount of dynamic loft generated with the driver to cause high spin.

 

But delivery isn't completely independent of the club specs so playing around with shaft weight or head weight can sometimes influence the dynamic loft a bit.  Even shaft stiffness for some can do the same.  But it's all very subjective and there are no hard and fast rules.  Hence the trial and error process in the tutorial.

[Sisbuad]

2 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

Depends on the LM used so we'd need to know what model LM was used to get the numbers.

 

But impact high on the face generally reduces spin, not increase it.  Are those average numbers or are they the numbers for that one swing that left that mark?

 

The numbers you could say that are average, and after that fitting session (Launch Monitor was Flightscope Mevo+) and seeing my spin numbers I searched on the forum for answers on high spin driver shots and found this post. It was then when I tried the mark thing. I've just come from a range sesison and I'm still hitting in a similar spot (now closer to the green smiley face as I was conscious on where I wanted to hit it, but still up and to the toe)

 

2 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

In that case, high spin is all from high dynamic loft delivered - which is typically more of a swing issue (amount of shaft lean at impact) than an equipment one.   Same could be said for the driver in the case where there is high amount of dynamic loft generated with the driver to cause high spin.

 

I understand that when it comes to the driver main contributor to spin is the strike with regards to the COG. So if that is ok as per my tests, I wonder why I'm still spinning it that much. Any clues?

 

Also, I've read that the equation for the Dynamic Loft is DL= Static Loft + Angle of Attack + shaft bending. So I understand that with shaft lean what you are doing is really reducing the Dynamic Loft by reducing the Static loft of the club? Is that it? If I can't or don't want to change the shaft lean at impact, then the way to go is to tweak the irons 2 deg. or so stronger. Is that correct?

 

I don't want to bother anyone if this has been already answered, so ignore me if that is the case :). I'll continue surfing the forum and will do more tests and match them with trackman numbers. Thans everyone for your contributions!

[Stuart_G]

8 minutes ago, Sisbuad said:

The numbers you could say that are average, and after that fitting session (Launch Monitor was Flightscope Mevo+) and seeing my spin numbers I searched on the forum for answers on high spin driver shots and found this post. It was then when I tried the mark thing. I've just come from a range sesison and I'm still hitting in a similar spot (now closer to the green smiley face as I was conscious on where I wanted to hit it, but still up and to the toe)

 

 

 

8 minutes ago, Sisbuad said:

I understand that when it comes to the driver main contributor to spin is the strike with regards to the COG. So if that is ok as per my tests, I wonder why I'm still spinning it that much. Any clues?

 

Yes, impact position and the gear effect from that are the #1 contributor but dynamic loft delivered is a close #2.    If that's an issue with the irons then it's also wouldn't be surprising if the same problem existed with the driver.  In fact it's fairly common with drivers when people try to force a positive AoA without proper instruction.   Face to path can also contribute to spin so an open face to path can increase the spin somewhat.

 

 

8 minutes ago, Sisbuad said:

Also, I've read that the equation for the Dynamic Loft is DL= Static Loft + Angle of Attack + shaft bending.

 

Actually it's dynamic loft  = static loft - forward shaft lean + any shaft bend  (the last one usually very small in irons).

Angle of attack comes in to play for "spin loft" = dynamic loft + AoA.

 

But the two biggest contributors are the static loft of the head and the shaft lean (where the hands are relative to the ball at impact).

 

8 minutes ago, Sisbuad said:

So I understand that with shaft lean what you are doing is really reducing the Dynamic Loft by reducing the Static loft of the club?

 

Nope.  Static loft is always measured relative to the shaft being perfectly vertical and is independent of the swing.

 

8 minutes ago, Sisbuad said:

 If I can't or don't want to change the shaft lean at impact, then the way to go is to tweak the irons 2 deg. or so stronger. Is that correct?

 

Changing the clubs by bending the static loft can help a bit but it can only do so much if your swing naturally delivers a high dynamic loft.    And yes, trying to address it with a shaft change isn't the best way to go (not very reliable or predictable) as long as the shaft is a good fit for both shaft weight and the stiffness feel.

 

As mentioned before, it's not uncommon for shaft weight or swing weight to have some influence on the release timing and dynamic loft delivered.  But also one can play around with ball position (not as far forward) and tee height (lower) with the driver to see if that helps at all.

[Sisbuad]

23 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

 

 

Yes, impact position and the gear effect from that are the #1 contributor but dynamic loft delivered is a close #2.    If that's an issue with the irons then it's also wouldn't be surprising if the same problem existed with the driver.  In fact it's fairly common with drivers when people try to force a positive AoA without proper instruction.   Face to path can also contribute to spin so an open face to path can increase the spin somewhat.

 

 

Yes...I guess you could be right there, don't know, could be the reason for the high spin in both driver and irons with good contact.

 

24 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

Actually it's dynamic loft  = static loft - forward shaft lean + any shaft bend  (the last one usually very small in irons).

Angle of attack comes in to play for "spin loft" = dynamic loft + AoA.

 

But the two biggest contributors are the static loft of the head and the shaft lean (where the hands are relative to the ball at impact).

 

 

Nope.  Static loft is always measured relative to the shaft being perfectly vertical and is independent of the swing.

 

Makes total sense, just had the intuition that shaft lean was substracting somehow from static loft.

 

26 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

Changing the clubs by bending the static loft can help a bit but it can only do so much if your swing naturally delivers a high dynamic loft.    And yes, trying to address it with a shaft change isn't the best way to go (not very reliable or predictable) as long as the shaft is a good fit for both shaft weight and the stiffness feel.

 

As mentioned before, it's not uncommon for shaft weight or swing weight to have some influence on the release timing and dynamic loft delivered.  But also one can play around with ball position (not as far forward) and tee height (lower) with the driver to see if that helps at all.

 

Shafts (especially on the irons) feel good, and have been playing them for lots of years.

 

Many thanks for your comments. As I said I will test around and also have found whats seems like a reputable fitter on the area so I think I will end up having a good solution for my high spin issues.

[Sisbuad]

So I did again some impact testing and is definitely not a strike problem. See the result of around 20 shots (Fade and draw included). I'm also working on more shaft lean during impact. Let's see what information I get on the next fitting. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Sisbuad]

Hi,

 

Just in case it does help anyone. I managed to decrease my spin drastically by working on more shaft lean to decrease dynamic loft - provided that the impact spot is correct, which it is. I was around 3000-3500 rpm with good impact and AOA -1 to 0 degrees,  and yesterday on a trackman session I could hit several like the one below (distance is in meters). Very very happy with the results. Having this type of information around is a blessing. Thanks everyone!

 

Edited September 10, 2021 by Sisbuad

[Skhacker]

As a hobbyist club builder and tinkerer, I’ve used this thread to fit my own driver(s) with great results. Also fit a couple friends and improved drastically. Thanks for all of the great info. 

[gdb99]

I still don't understand why this isn't stuck to the top of the page!

[Jlocke22]

OK - So eventually I will be getting truly fitted when my other Taylormade Warranty Replacement head from concaved face shows up (hopefully its the new Stealth) 

 

However, Driver has always been the worst club in my bag and I am determined to finally do something about it. I stepped away from the game for a few years and now falling back in love. I picked up a SIM off the rack last year and was "fitted" with three stock X-Stiff shafts on a crappy Simulator and picked best option. I then learned all last year I couldn't hit a driver consistently just like years past. Took me digging and finally finding this gem of a post to start trying to work on this myself a bit. That there are different head grams, weights,  that TM shafts are 45.75 long, effects of counterbalance shafts, etc. 

 

Current Setup:

Sim 8*

HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70G 6.5

Align Standard +4

 

Clubhead Speed:116-119 on average (Have reached 122 on Trackman but can't put up any relevant smash factor)

Working on swing but seems I may have an issue/power leak of almost getting stuck on downswing/impact and flipping hands/bending arms. I think that may be some of swing but could also be length issue but that is a different subject. I also lose track of clubhead in swing with current setup that I think can throw off timing/tempo. 

 

Before my golf sim league last night I measured everything (minus rear weight as I didn't have the right torx bit) and found that my head weight was 194 grams, gross weight was 330 grams, front sliding weight was 9 grams. I showed up to league early to get 15 minutes of screen time alone (really need some more) but had added 6 grams of lead tape in various spots (bottom chrome pieces and back of rear weight) on the driver and could finally feel the head and floating around 168-172 Ball Speed. I choked up around .5 (forgot a marker) and really felt like I could get after it a bit more and more confidence and ball speed stayed the same with tighter misses and better accuracy. 

 

I could buy weight kits for SIM but would you split the differences in grams between both spots or just throw the additional mass in slider or rear weight? How many additional grams would I need for butt trimming .75 off a counterbalance shaft? I am not sure if that would throw things off further or completely change the profile.  Just looking for some recommendations/expertise. Thanks for your time! 

Front Weight.jfif Gross W.jfif Head Weight.jfif Lead Tape.jfif

Edited January 7, 2022 by Jlocke22

[Howard_Jones]

Just mark the grip, like 0.5" shorter or what ever, and add lead tape untill it feels right and works good, and forget everything about SW points or math, YOU are "the real scale", YOU are the one who shall like it and play it, so dont even think of "rules" here, its only 1 thats valid in the end, what ever works for YOU.

PS your smash factor is still not optimized
Ball speed / club speed = smash

Average 170 ball speed / average club speed 117.5 = 1.44
Max 172 ball speed / max club speed 119 = 1.44 again....

Low club speed 116 x 1.5 = 174 ball speed
Average club speed 117.5 x smash 1.5 = 176.5 ball speed...
Max club speed 119 x 1.5 = 178.5...

Simply slow down a bit and focus on impact, it will keep your ball speed ABOVE 172 who is the max you got now, so dont focus so much on club speed, improve impact and let the club head do the job, it will improve both distance and dispersion, and you save energy

[Jlocke22]

Howard - Thank you for the feedback and writing the original guide. It gives me something to focus on in terms of just finding the right feel and less on numbers when it is in terms of the swing weight/cutting/head weight/etc. However, it gives me a much better idea in terms of impact of how much I am leaving on the table and how much better I can optimize my setup! I will stay on the path and hopefully report back some great news in the future! 

[Prudacris]

amazing info here. thank you howard and everybody thats chimed in!

 

im still unsure about how to choose loft with a DIY fitting.  what are the main factors to determine best fit if testing 2 driver heads (9 vs 10.5 degree)...? is it all based on strike point on head being optimal?

[Howard_Jones]

36 minutes ago, Prudacris said:

amazing info here. thank you howard and everybody thats chimed in!

 

im still unsure about how to choose loft with a DIY fitting.  what are the main factors to determine best fit if testing 2 driver heads (9 vs 10.5 degree)...? is it all based on strike point on head being optimal?

With heads "off the rack" we really dont know what loft is. The best is plus minus 1.0* from official, many has larger tolerances than that (but they dont tell you), so the lofts you suggest could be the same. They could even opposites where actual loft for the 9* is 10.5* and the 10.5* could be only 9*

To dial in the right loft we will need a launch monitor, and use the hosel setting (like it should) to get the ball flight we want. Loft also vary with face roll, so if your impact is variable and all over the face, we cant judge whats the right loft.

So the answer is yes, its related to actual impact area on the face, and if we want maximized carry, total or a compromise in between those.

Its also related to what ball flight we want (Fade or Draw)
A fade is a face angle open to path = we add loft by that
A draw is a face angle closed to path = we reduce loft by that
 

Edited January 27, 2022 by Howard_Jones

[Prudacris]

wow very interesting...so for someone like me testing on a launch monitor.  if I swing between 105-110 with driver and dont have consistent strike point contact (although i followed what you said about altering shaft length and it really helped my heel strike, so thank you!) then what am I looking for? an optimal spin and launch number?  i found it interesting reading your comment about how aggressive someone swings and if they are strong but swinging easy and so forth.  im definitely the guy who looks like hes going to kill the ball and has an aggressive transition as opposed to floating...from what you were saying would that mean the shaft needs to possibly be lighter and more stiff?  any help is appreciated! thank you!

 

[Howard_Jones]

1 hour ago, Prudacris said:

wow very interesting...so for someone like me testing on a launch monitor.  if I swing between 105-110 with driver and dont have consistent strike point contact (although i followed what you said about altering shaft length and it really helped my heel strike, so thank you!) then what am I looking for? an optimal spin and launch number?  i found it interesting reading your comment about how aggressive someone swings and if they are strong but swinging easy and so forth.  im definitely the guy who looks like hes going to kill the ball and has an aggressive transition as opposed to floating...from what you were saying would that mean the shaft needs to possibly be lighter and more stiff?  any help is appreciated! thank you!

 

Nobody respond the same to club spec changes. but in general, too heavy or too stiff triggers tempo speed and use of power and opposite, so a aggressive player will often benefit from a shaft with more feedback from load and release. "The book say" go heavy on this type of players, but thats often like gasoline on fire, his swing want become more rhythmical or fluid for that reason. He might need the weight to stabilize him, while a softer profile with more feedback might be whats needed for a more controlled load and release. Golf AINT the same game as Long driving, we dont have Mulligans in Golf, so its not beneficial to swing out of our shoes from the tee.

Here is how i mean a good golf swing looks like when the equipment is good.
We see good rhythm and tempo, body balance, dedication and control.
The power used, "dont leak out" during the swing, its all delivered to the ball.  You can even hear it on impact. Scroll down for the video, i fitted and build the whole bag for her,

https://womensgolf.com/daisy-nielsen

Edited January 27, 2022 by Howard_Jones

[Prudacris]

awesome insight. thank you Howard!  one other question...anybody know the reason why rahm or brooks plays a 10.5 degree driver while most others like rory and wolff play lower lofted sub 9 degree drivers?  whats the equation that makes this happen?

[Howard_Jones]

2 hours ago, Prudacris said:

awesome insight. thank you Howard!  one other question...anybody know the reason why rahm or brooks plays a 10.5 degree driver while most others like rory and wolff play lower lofted sub 9 degree drivers?  whats the equation that makes this happen?

Wanted launch angle vs Angle of attack is the short answer, and club speed is part of it, where we in general can say, higher club speed = lower loft needed, since the ball climbs to a higher apex the higher club speed is.

Example, lets say 2 players both had the same target (mix of a good carry AND roll out) and both had a AOA of lets say plus 5*.

IF this 2 players had different club speed, the player with lowest club speed would need a higher loft than the player with highest club speed to be "optimized". both because of their APEX and the fact that SPIN values follows club speed. (10% higher club speed = 10% higher spin using the same loft). So to get the Descent angle wanted, and by that, the mix of carry and roll out we wanted, this 2 players would need different lofts.

If we have good roll out conditions, we can judge if the players SPIN value is "optimized" for his club speed and launch angle by looking at roll out as a % of his total like this.

80 mph club speed - Roll out should be 13 % of total
90 mph club speed - Roll out should be 12% of total
100 mph club speed - Roll out should be 11% of total
110 mph club speed - Roll out should be 10% of total
120 mph club speed - Roll out should be 9% of total

You can see this "pattern" in this chart made for a 100 mph club speed player
Each launch angle, has a "ideal spin value" where carry is at peak, and this peak who is launch angle dependent, IS ALWAYS where roll out % of total becomes like above (plus minus max 1%)

The "optimum" for the 100 mph player is 11% roll out of total


Here the chart for the 110 mph player where "optimum" is 10% roll out of total


For DIY fitting without a launch monitor, we can use this % factors if we know our club speed, and is able to measure carry and roll out using a LASER or GPS to bunkers or similar. Then we dont even have to know our launch angle to see if we are where we should be, as long as carry and roll can be measured or estimated with Laser or GPS.

We can also use the formula PW carry to driver carry
= PW carry x 2.03 = driver carry.

Its demands a "good working PW" as reference point. This way we can also judge if we are shorter on carry with the driver than we should be, or if the PW dont work as it should. For more info about the PW to driver relation, follow the link below.
 

 

Edited January 28, 2022 by Howard_Jones

[Luckydutch]

Following the advice here, I tested gripping down on the driver in a fitting and the results were honestly transformational. I gained 20 yards and a great deal of consistency. 

 

I am going back to PXG on Friday to fit for the Gen 4 driver and I'm absolutely convinced I will ask for a 44.5" shaft, down from their 'standard' 45.5".

 

What I'm not really sure is what I need to ask them about in terms of swing weight.

 

If I am interpreting the information on page 1 correctly, reducing the shaft by an inch decreases the SW by 6 points (c.12 grams). As I'm not experienced enough to really know what feels right (no experience to benchmark it against), do I just ask them to add 12g weight back to the head? Can they do that with the weight ports or will they just be adding lead tape like I would following this guide at home? 

 

Do I need to think about how where the weight should be added? Presumably, adding it to the back of the head promotes higher launch and more spin?

 

I'm probably going to go for a mid-size grip rather than the standard which might add a bit of weight back. I went for mid-size on my irons as it's just more comfortable.

 

@howard_jones

[Howard_Jones]

3 hours ago, Luckydutch said:

Following the advice here, I tested gripping down on the driver in a fitting and the results were honestly transformational. I gained 20 yards and a great deal of consistency. 

 

I am going back to PXG on Friday to fit for the Gen 4 driver and I'm absolutely convinced I will ask for a 44.5" shaft, down from their 'standard' 45.5".

 

What I'm not really sure is what I need to ask them about in terms of swing weight.

 

If I am interpreting the information on page 1 correctly, reducing the shaft by an inch decreases the SW by 6 points (c.12 grams). As I'm not experienced enough to really know what feels right (no experience to benchmark it against), do I just ask them to add 12g weight back to the head? Can they do that with the weight ports or will they just be adding lead tape like I would following this guide at home? 

 

Do I need to think about how where the weight should be added? Presumably, adding it to the back of the head promotes higher launch and more spin?

 

I'm probably going to go for a mid-size grip rather than the standard which might add a bit of weight back. I went for mid-size on my irons as it's just more comfortable.

 

@howard_jones

Forget rule of thumbs for SW, its useless, forget SW values, they are just as useless in the fitting bay, they belongs to the workshop AFTER fitting has found what works. If they dont offer shorter play lengths who include head wgt tuning, its not club fitting at all.

[Luckydutch]

20 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

Forget rule of thumbs for SW, its useless, forget SW values, they are just as useless in the fitting bay, they belongs to the workshop AFTER fitting has found what works. If they dont offer shorter play lengths who include head wgt tuning, its not club fitting at all.

 

So the process should be that I tell them I want 1 inch shorter shaft and in the club manufacturing process, they adjust the swing weight in a workshop before they send them to me?

 

They do have a "swing weight" box on their spec sheet but every time I've been to them, including when I bought my irons, this was just left blank.

[Howard_Jones]

4 hours ago, Luckydutch said:

 

So the process should be that I tell them I want 1 inch shorter shaft and in the club manufacturing process, they adjust the swing weight in a workshop before they send them to me?

 

They do have a "swing weight" box on their spec sheet but every time I've been to them, including when I bought my irons, this was just left blank.

 

A REAL club fitting has length and SW value as part of it, and its no reason to ask for a SW value you never was fitted to play. if the club as "standard" works and feel good gripping down 1 inch, just order it 1 inch shorter than standard. its no need for head wgt adjustment then.

[Luckydutch]

Did the fitting with PXG and had unexpected and frustrating feedback from the fitter.

 

They we’re pretty adamant that I shouldn’t shorten the shaft. Not because of a loss of club head speed but because they felt I was hitting too much towards the toe and thus with too little spin when using the shorter 44.5 and 45” shafts.

 

I don’t fully understand how shaft length pushes the strike location towards the toe. Wouldn’t I, with practice, just start to address the ball a tiny bit closer to compensate for the shorter shaft and then still strike it more centrally?

 

I want the shorter shaft to make it easier to get a tighter, more consistent strike pattern. But not if it comes at the cost of  all my drives being toe-y low-spinning hooks.