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Advantages and Disadvantages of using Rifle Flighted shafts


ijha

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What is the basic difference between Rifle flighted and regular TT tapered shafts?

I somewhere heard that the Rifle shafts are not preferrable if you're not a fast swinger. Is it true?

Also, I'd like to know those confusing numbers (5.0, 5.5...etc) that those shafts are using. I know it has to do with the frequency but I'd like to know which one matches to which flex.

Personally, I'm comfortable with TT Dynamic Gold Regular. Which number I have to go with?

 

Thank you.

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Are you sure you don't just mean to compare regular Rifle to TT Dynamic Gold?

 

Rifle Tour Flighted shafts are very different than almost any shaft on the market. They are designed so that the kickpoint of the shaft is lowered as the shaft length increases to help hit long irons higher and short irons lower. In actuality they seem to hit pretty high in general, especially compared to DG's.

 

The numbered fitting system refers to CPM's or frequency. If you bolt down the grip end and pull and release the head and measure the frequency with an oscilloscope, the higher the frequency, the stiffer the shaft. Royal Precision produces Rifle shafts to match by frequency as opposed to by weight (which is how TT does it).

 

In terms of True Temper shaft flexes, a DG S300 shaft is about the same flex as a 5.5/6.0 Rifle shaft.

 

Keep in mind though, that comparing True Temper DG to Rifle Flighted is like apples and oranges as it is more comparable to regular Rifle.

 

I disagree with the notion that Rifle shafts are designed for harder swingers. However, just as with all other shafts you need to get the right flex. The problem is that many people fail to realize that a Rifle 5.0 is stiffer than a DG R flex and that Rifle 6.0 is comparable to a true temper X flex in terms of frequency. The common misconception is that 6.0 is stiff and 5.5 is regular. This misconception has lead a lot of Rifle shaft users to use way too stiff a shaft. I believe that the reason for this misconception is that since Rifle shafts tend to fly the ball a little higher people fail to realize they're using too stiff a flex in Rifles, but their website has a handy chart for determining which flex is right for you based on 6-iron distance. If you hit your 6-iron 165 yards, you are a 5.5.

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Thanks a lot for your reply.

Yes, I think I meant regualr Rifle shafts. I thought that they are the same one.

Anyway, does that mean I have to go for 5.0?

 

And..Again, I don't still don't know what properties of Rifle shaft make it being preferred by advanced players.

 

Thanks.

 

--------------------------------

OOOPPs...

I didn't see your edited massage. Thanks a lot for your detailed reply!

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I agree with previous posts that the best option would be to visit a Certified Rifle and get fitted. If you don´t have that chance and like the DG Regular I think that you should go for a 4.5 since 5.0 is more of a firm (between regular and stiff) flex.

 

The reason why many tour players prefer Rifle shafts is because with the frequency measurement method there is much greater consistency through the whole set of irons than with the simple weighting. Maybe because of this True Temper recently released their frequency tuned DGBlack...

 

Finally, I would go for Flighted Rifle rather than the regular version. I used to play Rifle 5.5 and following the recommendation of Royal Precision I requested Flighted Rifle 5.5 in my new set of irons and never looked back. I gained tremendous accuracy in the long (higher and straighter flight curve) and short (lower) irons.

 

Good luck.

Regards.

Ping G430 MAX 10.5º. GD Tour AD IZ 6S

PXG 0311 XF GEN6 #4 & #7. UST Proforce V2 6F4

Maltby KE4 Tour RS 22º. FST Pro 115S

Maltby TE+ Forged 25º ~ 45º. FST Pro 115S

Maltby TSW Forged 50º, 55º & 60º. FST Pro 115S

EVNROLL ER5 CS Hatchback

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check www.tttourconcept.com

 

it gives all the shaft break downs.

Srixon Z565 10* 1* open Fubuki J S
Titleist 904F 13* Graffaloy Comp NT Blue Hybrid R tipped
PXG 317X 19* Aldila NV 2KXV Blue S
Srixon H45 Aldila NV 2KXV Blue S or 545 4i Steelfiber i95 S (depending on course)
Srixon 745 5-PW Steelfiber i95 S
SM6 Vokey 50* F grind, 56* S grind, 60* M grind--all with KBS 610's
Betti BB53C counterbalanced

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Here's a little handy reference guideline:

 

R300: 4.50

S300: 5.75

S400: 6.25

X100: 7.05

 

I've hit various combination of irons with DG and Rifle and I feel that some clubs just performs/feels better in DG's and some in Rifles.

I've hit Callaway X-Tours in Project X 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, and DGS300.

I normally play S300 but in X-Tours it felt terrible. In PX 5.5 it felt a bit loose, in PX 6.0 it was absolutely perfect - I was one club longer! and PX 6.5 felt good but just too stiff for me.

So the only to really know if to try it - unless you want to get fancy and get into hard-stepping/soft-stepping.

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what are the disadvantages of going a little too stiff besides losing distance?

 

 

My experience with going a little too stiff in Rifles is that they feel really boardish, like you're forcing the shaft to work. I suppose that's true of any shaft though, but it seems there is a fine threshold with Rifles...go a little too stiff and you lose all feel.

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  • 7 years later...

What about hitting the ball "in the screws"? If I hit a TMSpeed Blade 6-iron with Project X 5.5 my strikes are 4 lines up with 1/8" to 1/4" in variation toward toe and heel. But if I hit a Callaway Diablo Forged 6-iron with Uniflex shaft my strikes have a wider dispersion, e.g., 1/4" to 3/8" toward heel and toe. My ball speed measures for a "regular" shaft. Could it be the shaft is causing the wider dispersion? or what? I have tried the test sufficient times (i think) to eliminate "pilot error."

I like the "soft" feel of the forged club => do I need to replace the Uniflex shafts in order to hit the ball "in the screws"?

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