Custom Ferrules

[strick13]

So I know where to order them from but my question bc I want to install them on my irons and woods, are there standard sizes or is every shaft different? If so, what do you measure it with to get the right specs?

[3putt-5]

You need to know the diameter of the shaft which will equate to the I.D. of the ferrule, so .370, .355, etc and then you want to know the diameter of the outside of your hosel which will equate to the OD of the ferrule. You want the ferrule OD to be just slightly larger than your hosel so you can turn the ferrule down flush. You would measure both the shaft tip and hosel with a set of calipers. Not sure where you are looking to buy the ferrules from, but I would suggest you look at Cell Parts. Very high quality product and great to work with on custom stuff.

[Hot Rod 71]

Ferrules usually come in .335, .355, or .370 which is the inside diameter (ID) measurement.

They vary in size based on the ID, length, and outside diameter (OD).

Here is a good source [url="http://www.grailgolf.com/"]http://www.grailgolf.com/[/url]

I buy all my ferrules from these guys. High quality, fair prices, and super fast shipping.

[strick13]

[quote name='ThreePuttForePar' timestamp='1392605459' post='8683517']
You need to know the diameter of the shaft which will equate to the I.D. of the ferrule, so .370, .355, etc and then you want to know the diameter of the outside of your hosel which will equate to the OD of the ferrule. You want the ferrule OD to be just slightly larger than your hosel so you can turn the ferrule down flush. You would measure both the shaft tip and hosel with a set of calipers. Not sure where you are looking to buy the ferrules from, but I would suggest you look at Cell Parts. Very high quality product and great to work with on custom stuff.
[/quote]

Yes, I planned on going through Cell Parts Mfg. Thanks for the info. I'm sure I am able to order multiple different sizes through them since the different club categories have different shafts, correct?

[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1392605731' post='8683561']
Ferrules usually come in .335, .355, or .370 which is the inside diameter (ID) measurement.

They vary in size based on the ID, length, and outside diameter (OD).

Here is a good source [url="http://www.grailgolf.com/"]http://www.grailgolf.com/[/url]

I buy all my ferrules from these guys. High quality, fair prices, and super fast shipping.
[/quote]

I appreciate the input. I'll take a look at them.

///

A couple more questions about them..

What's the difference between smoothed or grooved ferrules? Does it have an effect on the club?

What does the collared ferrule do different other than just the appearance?

[strick13]

Also, what type of epoxy works best for gluing them back in?

[Hot Rod 71]

[quote name='strick13' timestamp='1392669199' post='8688085']
Also, what type of epoxy works best for gluing them back in?
[/quote]

Do you have one that has come loose and is riding up the shaft, or are you talking about installing the ferrule and shaft back into the head?

If its a loose ferrule, I take a 3/8 open end wrench (small one) and place it over the top of the ferrule and use a small tack hammer to knock it back down. You can put some super glue between the ferrule and hosel before you tap it down.

If you are looking for shafting epoxy, look here [url="http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_EPX1_A_cn_E_33"]http://www.golfworks..._EPX1_A_cn_E_33[/url] or here [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/261312682422?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649."]http://www.ebay.com/...84.m1423.l2649.[/url]

Edit: there are two basic types of epoxy - Regular set for everyday bonding (12-24 hour cure time) and quick set (30-60 minute cure time).

[DT15]

[quote name='strick13' timestamp='1392609764' post='8684133']
[quote name='ThreePuttForePar' timestamp='1392605459' post='8683517']
You need to know the diameter of the shaft which will equate to the I.D. of the ferrule, so .370, .355, etc and then you want to know the diameter of the outside of your hosel which will equate to the OD of the ferrule. You want the ferrule OD to be just slightly larger than your hosel so you can turn the ferrule down flush. You would measure both the shaft tip and hosel with a set of calipers. Not sure where you are looking to buy the ferrules from, but I would suggest you look at Cell Parts. Very high quality product and great to work with on custom stuff.
[/quote]

Yes, I planned on going through Cell Parts Mfg. Thanks for the info. I'm sure I am able to order multiple different sizes through them since the different club categories have different shafts, correct?

[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1392605731' post='8683561']
Ferrules usually come in .335, .355, or .370 which is the inside diameter (ID) measurement.

They vary in size based on the ID, length, and outside diameter (OD).

Here is a good source [url="http://www.grailgolf.com/"]http://www.grailgolf.com/[/url]

I buy all my ferrules from these guys. High quality, fair prices, and super fast shipping.
[/quote]

I appreciate the input. I'll take a look at them.

///

A couple more questions about them..

What's the difference between smoothed or grooved ferrules? Does it have an effect on the club?

What does the collared ferrule do different other than just the appearance?
[/quote]

I am with Hot Rod on Grail Golf - great ferrules and great prices.

Groved ferrules allow more room for epoxy to bond the ferrule to she shaft. Smooth ferrules leave microns of space to allow epoxy between the shaft and ferrule. If you go Grail Golf, you do not need epoxy for your ferrules.

Collared ferrules are like hub rings on wheels. They align the shaft in the center of the hosel if your hosel tolerances aren't exactly correct. Many hosels have a bit of a recessed area in the very beginning of the hosel to allow for collared ferrules, but some do not. They can also help with the cosmetics of the joint between the hosel and ferrule.

The Grail Golf ferrules I have used require zero epoxy, they are extremely snug fitting and usually need heated just to slide on as far as they need to go. I have no worries of these ever sliding up the shaft and its nice to know I can remove them if need be.

Everyone else is 100% correct on shaft size, hosel OD, and ferrule OD. For instance, I just built a set of the new TM TP's for myself. Shafts are .355, hosel OD is .52 - .53 (none are completely round). I bought non-collared, smooth .355 ID ferrules with .530 OD's then turned them down to match perfectly. This was my first time turning ferrules and it is really really simple.

[attachment=2073755:IMG_2671.jpg]

[Hot Rod 71]

I love those gray ferrules, DT15.


I just got my order from Grail Golf a couple of days ago and it included some of the gray, blue, and red ones. I can't wait to try them out. They shipped from Cali to Va in 2 days.

[strick13]

Thanks for the replies guys. Both helped a lot. I'm getting a caliper tonight so I'll do the measurements tonight.

What exactly does it mean to "turn" the ferrule down? It sounds like it means something else than the literal meaning but I'm not sure.

[Hot Rod 71]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qec0QEe1z9M

[media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPhwzzNPytc[/media]

[strick13]

Will Loctite Metal epoxy from Lowes work or do I need something more golf club related?

[Hot Rod 71]

I've heard of others on here using non-golf-specific epoxy (not sure of the brands), but I always use the Brampton from the ebay link I gave you. Works great.

[strick13]

Thanks for all the help brother. I'm thinking it would be a good idea to get the ferrule of the OD for the hosel a little bigger to sand down instead of too small then not be able to do anything about it. I've measure the hosel on my irons and I'm getting .507-.509 and the OD for the shaft is .368 (I'm assuming .370)

I would order them as .510 and .370?

Is it truly going to matter whether they are parallel or tapered?

I found this from a website about the shafts I have in my irons:

[color=#000000][size=1][background=rgb(236, 237, 243)]Parallel Irons R, S, X 107 / 108 / 109 .600 / .370[/background][/size][/color]

[color=#000000][size=1][background=rgb(236, 237, 243)]Tapered Irons R, S, X 105 / 106 / 107 .600 / .355 [/background][/size][/color]


When I measured them the all came out close to .370 so I can assume that they are parallel or is that deceiving?

[NevadaGolfGuy]

Well if they are a .370 it will have an additional 2" or so up the shaft were it will still measure. 370. Hence the name parallel.

.355's often measure close to. 370 at the top of the ferrule but since its tapered it will gradually increase from the very tip at. 355.

If your not sure try pulling up specs on your irons, or measure te shaft above the ferrule and see if it tapers.

[Hot Rod 71]

I'm pretty sure the MX 23s have .355 taper tip shafts. Look here - [url="http://www.pictures.gamolagolf.co.uk/Mizuno09.pdf"]/Mizuno09.pdf[/url] [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/85260-mizuno-mx23-tip-diameter/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...3-tip-diameter/[/url] [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/233733-mizuno-mx-23-iron-shaft-change/."]http://www.golfwrx.c...-shaft-change/.[/url]

I think the .370 in the info above is for graphite shafts.

A little bigger OD on the ferrule is better than too small. You can't turn a ferrule that is too small.

If you try to use a .370 ferrule on a .355 shaft it will not fit snugly and will slide up and down. And of course if you try to put a .355 ferrule on a .370 it will be too small and you won't even be able to get it on the shaft.

[strick13]

The shaft I have in my irons isn't listen. They're the TT Tx-Tour shafts. I was leaning towards what you guys were thinking but I wasn't sure. Should I go to a .520 in them or just leave them as a .510?

I think they are tapered the more I measure. .355 taper tip it is.

[Hot Rod 71]

I would go .520. That gives you room for turning them down.

Good luck. Post some photos when you get done.

[strick13]

Will do. Thanks again.

[DT15]

[quote name='Hot Rod 71' timestamp='1392674409' post='8688619']
I love those gray ferrules, DT15.


I just got my order from Grail Golf a couple of days ago and it included some of the gray, blue, and red ones. I can't wait to try them out. They shipped from Cali to Va in 2 days.
[/quote]

Hot Rod, I really like these ferrules. I haven't gotten too wild, just using grey and black form them, but they have looked awesome so far. Really a great product, and I am just East of you on the other side of DC in MD, they ship to me in 2 days as well after purchasing from eBay.

[quote name='strick13' timestamp='1392686552' post='8690265']
Will Loctite Metal epoxy from Lowes work or do I need something more golf club related?
[/quote]

I too use Bramptons club epoxy, but before I used a 2-1 epoxy from Auto Zone. It is designed for metal and had a Shear PSI of like 4,500 (well above any club epoxy I have seen). This stuff worked wonders and I never had a failure out of it (Forget the name, but it is in a 2-1 dispenser, 1 side black, 1 side white, red packaging). Changed to Bramptons when my EW store was closing and they had a blowout on their club building materials.

Turning ferrules to match is really simple. I have a vise, but don't use it. I sit in a normal chair, put the grip between my feet, then prop the club head up against my chest. Then use a strip of old T shirt soaked in Acetone and do a shoe shine motion across the ferrule. Once you get one side done, move the club around to start on the next section. Once you have all the edges even around the hosel, you are pretty much done except for finishing it. Before you finish it, the hesel may look like complete trash, (areas of built up plastic, scratches, lint from the t shirt, etc) - don't be worried. Grab the shaft a few inches above the hosel, soak a folded up paper towel in Acetone, and very quickly pass over the hosel in an up and down motion while you spin the club making sure to cover the entire hosel. She will come out looking like new and shiny!

*When using the rag to turn them, once you feel the rag beginning to grab or you can feel it scratching the plastic (not completely smooth) stop and reapply acetone to the rag. This helps with the lint / built up plastic residue / etc.
*Make sure when you are finishing that your paper towel is well saturated. If it is leaving lines or isn't 100% smooth, re-soak it with acetone.
*Wear gloves if you have access to them. Acetone is A) a nasty chemical and B) evaporates extremely quickly (evaporation is endothermic and takes heat away) aka this stuff gets cold when you use it haha.
* Pure Acetone can also be found at Autozone