So theoretically... Parallel vs Taper Tip shafts

[Howard_Jones]

56 minutes ago, rbpwrx said:

 

Interesting. It seems like the X7 is one constant taper from tip .355 to .394, over about 4.5". Assuming this would be similar to other DG lines, albeit w/ smaller diameters? Or is it really 2 separate tapers? I'm not finding a second 'flat spot' on these X7s...

The first taper is only 6/8" long, and officially 0.355 to 0.370, but like the photo above shows, the tip end itself was not more than 0.346 on both shafts measured, so maybe 6/8 above is really only 0.361?

The hosel itself shall have this measurements (the shaft is always smaller, the difference is for epoxy)

We know for sure, that tip trim of 3/8" still gives full insert, so if the shaft itself is 0.009 smaller, the tip will be 0.351 after we tip trimmed 3/8"

The drawing is really the hosel, not the shaft, but shafts much match that, so the taper down in the hosel is only 6/8" long. Some but not all TTs PDFs with step pattern also say that the taper is 6/8" long.
 

Edited April 20 by Howard_Jones

[rbpwrx]

51 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

The first taper is only 6/8" long, and officially 0.355 to 0.370, but like the photo above shows, the tip end itself was not more than 0.346 on both shafts measured, so maybe 6/8 above is really only 0.361?

The hosel itself shall have this measurements (the shaft is always smaller, the difference is for epoxy)

We know for sure, that tip trim of 3/8" still gives full insert, so if the shaft itself is 0.009 smaller, the tip will be 0.351 after we tip trimmed 3/8"

The drawing is really the hosel, not the shaft, but shafts much match that, so the taper down in the hosel is only 6/8" long. Some but not all TTs PDFs with step pattern also say that the taper is 6/8" long.
 

 

Interesting, so from the factory, it's supposed to be .355 to .370 for the first taper, 3/4" long, then parallel at .370 for 5/8" or so (?), then another taper from 1-3/8" to 4.5" ish?

[Howard_Jones]

17 minutes ago, rbpwrx said:

 

Interesting, so from the factory, it's supposed to be .355 to .370 for the first taper, 3/4" long, then parallel at .370 for 5/8" or so (?), then another taper from 1-3/8" to 4.5" ish?

Like i try to explain, the HOSEL BORE is like that, the shaft is a tad smaller (about 0.009)
As i understand the X100 tip section, its 2 tapers, NO parallel section, the first taper is 6/8" long, the next goes from that point to first step, where i found X100 to be 0.386. If my understanding is correct, the SHAFT should be 0.361 (0.370 minus 0.009) 6/8" up, then the second taper goes from 0.361 to 0.386. 

The question is really, at what point do OD becomes to large to get down in the hosel?
I simply dont know, since i never measured that.

[rbpwrx]

1 hour ago, natekwhaaattt said:

So the only shafts I've played were DG X100s, KBS Ctaper 130x, and my current nippon 120tx. I loved the feel and dispersion I had with the c tapers but those launched wayy too low. The DG were fine, didn't love them didn't hate them, and the nippons are both launching and spinning miles too high. I've never really changed my irons often (unlike my woods...), so this is a bit newer territory for me.

 

Interesting. So you are in a similar window as me - I play CT130Xs and X7s - but sounds like the C-Tapers were too low for you (FTR, they were super low when I first tried em, but traj went way up as I got used to the feel).

You say you didn't love the feel of X100, wondering how you liked the *feel* of the CTapers? Nippon 120TX launches too high, which makes sense - it's kicky in the low mid.

Sounds like you'd prefer a linear tip-stiff shaft, maybe with a little softness at the handle? Right off the bat, I'd suggest:
- C-Taper 125 S+, as others have mentioned. Tad higher/ spinnier than the CT130;

- Project X LS 6.5, which is a nice lo-lo, softer in the handle than other PX profiles, kind of a sleeper but IMO a great alternative to the X100 that some people love;

- Nippon 125X, which is a much more linear profile than the 120TX, no kicky low mid.
 

[rbpwrx]

27 minutes ago, Howard_Jones said:

Like i try to explain, the HOSEL BORE is like that, the shaft is a tad smaller (about 0.009)
As i understand the X100 tip section, its 2 tapers, NO parallel section, the first taper is 6/8" long, the next goes from that point to first step, where i found X100 to be 0.386. If my understanding is correct, the SHAFT should be 0.361 (0.370 minus 0.009) 6/8" up, then the second taper goes from 0.361 to 0.386. 

The question is really, at what point do OD becomes to large to get down in the hosel?
I simply dont know, since i never measured that.

 

I understand now. Hosel bore is parallel .370, which tapers to .355 in the last 0.75".

But the *shaft* is two tapers that run into each other, a 'steeper' taper at the tip, then a 'shallower' taper out maybe about 4" to the parallel section before the first step.

Diameters depend on profile (X100 parallel section is .386 or so, X7 is .394, etc).

And the shaft is a tad smaller than the bore to allow for epoxy. All makes sense.

You're wondering how much we can cut off the tip before it gets too wide to fully seat in the bore? Answer seems to be: not much. About the 3/8" that everyone always says.

As I measure this X7 4i, it reaches a full .370 by about 1.75" and continues to grow in diameter from there. So if we tipped it 3/8", it would already be impinging on the walls of the bore at an insertion depth of 1.25".

I'd be concerned about stresses at the edge of the hosel and snapping off the tip, so even at 3/8" tipping, I'd likely 'relieve' the edge of the hosel bore to make sure no 'pinch' point.

[Howard_Jones]

28 minutes ago, rbpwrx said:

 

I understand now. Hosel bore is parallel .370, which tapers to .355 in the last 0.75".

But the *shaft* is two tapers that run into each other, a 'steeper' taper at the tip, then a 'shallower' taper out maybe about 4" to the parallel section before the first step.

Diameters depend on profile (X100 parallel section is .386 or so, X7 is .394, etc).

And the shaft is a tad smaller than the bore to allow for epoxy. All makes sense.

You're wondering how much we can cut off the tip before it gets too wide to fully seat in the bore? Answer seems to be: not much. About the 3/8" that everyone always says.

As I measure this X7 4i, it reaches a full .370 by about 1.75" and continues to grow in diameter from there. So if we tipped it 3/8", it would already be impinging on the walls of the bore at an insertion depth of 1.25".

I'd be concerned about stresses at the edge of the hosel and snapping off the tip, so even at 3/8" tipping, I'd likely 'relieve' the edge of the hosel bore to make sure no 'pinch' point.

We are on the same line now, but dont forget that many heads today is made for Collared ferrules, so the last about 3/16 is wider, the actual hosel is really only 1.0"+, then it goes wider to make space for the ferrule.

The 3/8" measurement comes from me
Thats what i found to be "universal" for all those wedges ive done, and it includes most brands.
I never has issues with 3/8" tip trim in standard Taper tip hosels, but more than that, is very variable. I did some Mizuno wedges with 5/8" tip trim (1 shaft stronger), without the need for a ream job, while others will most likely need it when we go beyond 3/8", so ive been saying, 3/8" is the safe limit where we know we can get away with, without a ream job.
 

My old iron set, Callaway X-Tour 2005 model had a "strange" tip size of 0.363 Taper tip...
Its really a normal taper tip, tip trimmed 3/8", maybe a tad above, but not all the way to 4/8", so Callaway knew how to manipulate it, so they was able to "hard step" without moving shafts, since DG only goes to #9, and it will look crazy if a standard set, only had full flex progression up to #8
(X-tour 2005 played like hard stepped once as standard due to this) 

Edited April 20 by Howard_Jones