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Reshafting Ben Hogan irons


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Hi, I have got my hands on a set of '84 Apex PC's. The heads are in ok condition but the shafts and ferrules need replacing.

Theses irons are pinned and I'm wondering what's the best way to get them out. Is it just a matter of hammering them out, or?

I'm not too bothered about then installing new pins in the heads afterwards, heard it's a lot of extra work. Any ideas of how to keep the epoxy inside the head without it leaking out of the holes where the pins have been?

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks

Brad.

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I cut the shafts about 2 inches above the ferrule. Take a drill bit down the remaining shaft to break/remove the pin. Then I heated the shaft and pulled the remaining shaft. Went super quick.

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I take a nail punch (hardened steel); sharpen it on a grinder just a little with a 30 deg. taper from the horizontal (or use a very narrow nail punch); Set the punch on the back of the hosel and create a set hole with one pucnh; then I hit the punch a few times to get the pin out about 1/2 way; I then use a vice grip to work it out. Sometimes a little heat on the hosel (not too much) helps. I have used this technique on about 50 times on old Hogan irons without issues. I just bought a set of Hogan Directors from 1974 that I will receive later this week which will also get the same treatment.

I use 24 hour epoxy from Golfsmith. I wrap some tape on the old pin holes to keep the glue from running out. There is no need for new pins; the modern glue works well.

Good luck.

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Since the shafts were pinned, were they also dimpled ? You can tell by the resistance to pulling even after the shaft epoxy has been heated to break bond. You can also tell by simply looking at the shaft to see if they were dimpled, though that is a bit difficult for some to see. I'm just curios. Those very old clubs were made that way because they did not trust the epoxy of that time as being strong enough.

 

Frankly, I would have left the club as is provided the shafts were still in good shape. Some of those very old shafts were given to rusting out, but not all. Standards were not as well maintained in the old days.

 

 

 

Shambles

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The old Hogan shafts I've pulled haven't been dimpled. Once pinned, I'd think the shaft is going nowhere except with the application of the right tools and a bit of deliberate force - so I'd think that to dimple AND pin would be totally OTT.

 

I tend to agree but that tends to be meaningless in the face of players belief regardless that even club pros might advise otherwise. Once repinned, some pins had a tendency to fall off simply because they were held simply with glue. Best was to tap both ends a bit to widen them, but then you also have the sight of how very little actually held the pin in place, thus the desire to dimple as that offers a final resort. Way back, a lot of the epoxy was also home made and club makers had different ways of doing things. Some of the really old glue was even the sort used to make clubs that were truly made of wood with wood shafts. Steel shafts and epoxy sort of came into the market relatively close to each other.

 

Thankfully, epoxy got so much better that neither dimple or pin was ever again considered necessary. These days I use any sort of epoxy as being adequate for the job.

 

 

 

Shambles

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I see what you mean. I can very well believe that a re-pinned replacement shaft might be less secure than the original. I actually don't mind the pins. I've seen some old Hogans where once the pins were removed it wasn't clear whether the shafts had been glued in place at all. And I think I'd much prefer to deal with a pinned hosel than the threading that Wilson used, or the ball-bearing that sits at the bottom of Ping putters. I agree that modern epoxy has made the pins redundant and that's a very good thing - but I still think it was quite an elegant way to secure the shaft.

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When I re-shafted my Palmer Standards I did what premazipp said and was able to get the shafts out and leave the outside bit of the pin in the hosel. The shafts were dimpled when I pulled them out. Otherwise you leave a hole that has to be filled, and at least for me, and they just don't look as good after that. No real need for pins if you use high quality epoxy.

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  • 2 months later...

Hope someone can help, just purchased a set of Apex 93 Ft Worth fitted with precision rifle FCM 5.0 shafts. I want to re-shaft with some modern apex 3 shafts but unlike other blades it appears that the hosel is only pinned from the back of the hosel, that is the pin does not go right through the hosel. I also want to save the rifle shafts so the method of cutting the shaft near the ferrule and drilling out is not really an option. Any ideas?

Thanks.

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Hope someone can help, just purchased a set of Apex 93 Ft Worth fitted with precision rifle FCM 5.0 shafts. I want to re-shaft with some modern apex 3 shafts but unlike other blades it appears that the hosel is only pinned from the back of the hosel, that is the pin does not go right through the hosel. I also want to save the rifle shafts so the method of cutting the shaft near the ferrule and drilling out is not really an option. Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

just tap the pin into the middle of the shaft and remove

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Worth checking that what looks like the back end of a shaft pin isn't in fact decorative? The pin may be real, but all other Hogan irons that I've seen have been pinned right through the hosel and can be driven out. Those '92 - '94 "pins" look a bit funny in the photos I've seen - not polished flush to the surface of the hosel like other models.

 

I think I'd steam the ferrule on one club until it can be separated from the hosel, and then give the hosel a good blast of heat to see whether the shaft actually twists off.

 

If that doesn't work, then give Neil's suggestion above a go (though I tried it once without success on the single club I've ever had with a single sided pin) or else get a comically long drill bit (48"?) and drill out the pin from the butt end of the shaft.

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Thanks for the advice. After checking out photos of mint original irons on eBay it actually looks like solder filling has been used to fill the holes on my irons. Original irons have what appears to be rivets pressed into the hosel. Will try to remove the shaft with heat and if that doesn't work will drive the pin? into the shaft.

Thanks again for the help.

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Don't believe FCM 5.0 shafts existed back in '92 - '94 when these Apex's were new. So unless someone reinstalled the pins (why?), must have been a reshaft. And should present no trouble with removing by the usual methods.

 

Have you given the Precisions a go yet? The 5.0 flex would be equal to Apex 3 (thereabouts). I rather like those old Precision Rifles. Especially the Flighted variety. Installed them in a set of Apex II's during a makeover "modernization".

 

FYI - I use a dab of silver paint to hide the pin holes after reshafting. You will have some epoxy in the holes and will be a reasonably flush surface.

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

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Took the 93 ft worths out on the range yesterday and tried them with the rifle shafts, and yes they did feel pretty good. Had a set of precept tour forged back in the 90's fitted with rifle 5.5 and I had forgotten how good they really were! Sure enough the pins turned out to be just solder filling.

I recently purchased a set of Hogan PTx irons fitted with KBS tour 90 S, but my advancing years don't seem to match these shafts so the Apex 3 shafts might be the perfect solution. The PTx cost me a heap to import to Australia, so I am keen to get the setup right to make them work for me. A beautiful set of irons.

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