Shot Patterns and Weight Setups in R5 TP / modded R5?

[Stuy Pegleg]

Okay guys, I'm about to mod my R5 Dual N so that I can put in the removeable weights. I keep on hitting fades.

 

Can you guys list which club you have the and let us know how it fixed your drives?

 

Something like:

 

R5 TP 9.5

Before: Shots were fading with stock weights (what are the stock weights, by the way?)

After: 6 in heel and 4 in toe and shots started to go straight.

 

I need to figure out what kind of weights I need and these suckers aren't cheap for sure.

 

Thanks.

[ShortSticks]

I modded my r5 driver and 3 wood recently. The stock weights that are in it are 9 grams total, with 7g in the heel and 2 g in the toe for a draw bias. After removing these, I installed a 6g in the toe and a 2g in the heel with some rubber warshers to help deaden the sound and add the extra 1g needed to get it back to d2 swingweight. Changing the weights only helps a little with ball flight. I had been fighting a snap hook with the original weights, and since the change it seems to have helped, but a bad swing will still get me bad results, just not as severe. The 3 wood on the other hand is MONEY now, as all left bias seems to have been fixed by changing the weights. The rubber warshers did help to deaden the sound a little.

[Joshfo]

So the R5 can be modded, Ive had one for most of this year and always wondered if you could change the weights if you had the wrech and weight set. So you can? If a try should I be worried about anything?

[oldgoalie]

I modded my r5 driver and 3 wood recently. The stock weights that are in it are 9 grams total, with 7g in the heel and 2 g in the toe for a draw bias. After removing these, I installed a 6g in the toe and a 2g in the heel with some rubber warshers to help deaden the sound and add the extra 1g needed to get it back to d2 swingweight. Changing the weights only helps a little with ball flight. I had been fighting a snap hook with the original weights, and since the change it seems to have helped, but a bad swing will still get me bad results, just not as severe. The 3 wood on the other hand is MONEY now, as all left bias seems to have been fixed by changing the weights. The rubber warshers did help to deaden the sound a little.

 

Shortsticks - Did you weigh the old weights on a balance? I eyeballed the weight and thought the heel was a 10. I must admit, I could be off and/or if the material is not the same as a 10g removable weight I would be off too. If it is a 7 and not a 10, that could explain some of my swingweight issues....

 

Thanks

[ShortSticks]

I modded my r5 driver and 3 wood recently. The stock weights that are in it are 9 grams total, with 7g in the heel and 2 g in the toe for a draw bias. After removing these, I installed a 6g in the toe and a 2g in the heel with some rubber warshers to help deaden the sound and add the extra 1g needed to get it back to d2 swingweight. Changing the weights only helps a little with ball flight. I had been fighting a snap hook with the original weights, and since the change it seems to have helped, but a bad swing will still get me bad results, just not as severe. The 3 wood on the other hand is MONEY now, as all left bias seems to have been fixed by changing the weights. The rubber warshers did help to deaden the sound a little.

 

Shortsticks - Did you weigh the old weights on a balance? I eyeballed the weight and thought the heel was a 10. I must admit, I could be off and/or if the material is not the same as a 10g removable weight I would be off too. If it is a 7 and not a 10, that could explain some of my swingweight issues....

 

Thanks

 

I weighed the old fake weights on a digital scale. The heel plug is 6g and the fake screw was 1.25g and the toe fake screw was 1.75, with all weighed together for a total of 9g. Hope this helps.

[Stuy Pegleg]

Darn, I didn't think that the heel weighed that much. Time to order more weights...I got a type N and I figured that replacing the heel fake screw + plug with a 2g or 4g would be sufficient to get more draw action. I didn't know that the plug weighed that much.

 

Now I think that I should've gotten an 8g or a 10g weight for the heel.

 

Thanks for posting the exact weight SS.

[oldgoalie]

I modded my r5 driver and 3 wood recently. The stock weights that are in it are 9 grams total, with 7g in the heel and 2 g in the toe for a draw bias. After removing these, I installed a 6g in the toe and a 2g in the heel with some rubber warshers to help deaden the sound and add the extra 1g needed to get it back to d2 swingweight. Changing the weights only helps a little with ball flight. I had been fighting a snap hook with the original weights, and since the change it seems to have helped, but a bad swing will still get me bad results, just not as severe. The 3 wood on the other hand is MONEY now, as all left bias seems to have been fixed by changing the weights. The rubber warshers did help to deaden the sound a little.

 

Shortsticks - Did you weigh the old weights on a balance? I eyeballed the weight and thought the heel was a 10. I must admit, I could be off and/or if the material is not the same as a 10g removable weight I would be off too. If it is a 7 and not a 10, that could explain some of my swingweight issues....

 

Thanks

 

I weighed the old fake weights on a digital scale. The heel plug is 6g and the fake screw was 1.25g and the toe fake screw was 1.75, with all weighed together for a total of 9g. Hope this helps.

 

Helps a bunch. Thanks a ton!

[parkinni]

I've been mulling over doing this mod to my r5N ever since I found out that it was possible. Three days ago, I decided to give it a go, and even though I had a major scare en route, this has proved to be a very worthwhile improvement to my driver.

 

My experience was this: I broke the epoxy bond on both weight screws by playing my heat gun on each head for 30 seconds or so, and turning them anti-clockwise with my needle-nosed pliers. After cleaning out the epoxy residue from the weight chambers, Iwent to work on removing the heel-side sleeve with my #4 Easy-Out.

 

Had no trouble getting the bit started, but when I went to twist it out, the Easy-Out SNAPPED OFF IN THE SLEEVE!!! YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS!!! I couldn't get enough of a grip on the Easy-Out to pull it out with any pair of pliers that I owned. Thought about drilling the sleeve out around the outside of the Easy-Out, but decided against it. Went to bed at night with that sick-to-the-pit-of-your-stomach-feeling that comes from knowing that you're probably going to f**k up your favourite driver, and should have left well enough alone and been happy with the way TaylorMade put it together in the first place.

 

Luckily for me, I thought to take it to the guy at work that makes all of the machined parts for our engineering prototypes. He took one look at it, popped a carbide-tipped bit in his cordless, and drilled out the Easy-Out in less than a minute. Then told me this was the fourth or fifth time he'd worked on someones golf club this year!......Including one time where he made someone in my department half a dozen copper-tungsten weight screws, and drilled/tapped three holes in their driver head to take the weights that he made!!! WOW!

 

Anywho.....after removing the Easy-Out, the sleeve just pulled out of the head fairly easily. And apart from a small scar where the drill bit touched the inside wall of this weight chamber, my r5 is as good as new.

 

Based on the mass of the stock weights described in this post, I put a 6-gram weight in the heel (conveniently hides the scar), and a 4-gram in the toe. Played 36 holes today, and was very happy with my driving. I hit them very straight, although a touch lower than normal (got loads of roll). The nice thing is, I can now play around with the screws and really see what works best. Oh, and now I have an r5 TP for the price of a regular r5 plus a lost night of sleep, and a few grey hairs!

 

[Thanks to everyone who's ever contributed to this topic, everywhere. And especially to Rue Lynch, model shop maker extraordinaire.]