What is in "MY" blueprinting woods?

[joey3108]

Why it could be done in 30 minutes or 2 hrs?

This is a tough one here, lots of factors variation and modification that could change the time consume to work on the club. It could be fast as 30 minutes job but it could be a 2 hrs job. Yes, most cases is around 40 minutes.

After an extensive fitting discussion phone call ( Average is around 30 minutes ). It would be best if you already have a launch monitor number for us to discuss. Bare in mind that launch monitor is only good to guide us to make some changes to a better result number. Don't get to caught up w/ 1 launch monitor number, it could be different from one to another...plus there are some operators factors involve on how accurate he/she gave you the reading and set up.

Let start from pulling the shaft out. Patient and good puller are the key pulling the shaft out nice and clean without any damage, let the heat travel to the epoxy and soften it up for an easy clean pull ( it could be 5-10 minutes but it can took 30-40 minutes depending which head ), Clean up the hosel and clean up the pulled shaft and check the head weight 5-10 minutes. Spined and flo'ed the shaft on the machine and marked it properly ( 10-15 minutes ). Dry fit the head and check the cpm to determine how much tipping need it or how much head weight need to be adjusted, above 5 grams will be internal weight adjustment ( It could be 15 minutes but it could be 30-40 minutes ) and then I'll start by tipping 1/2" to 1/4 less than intended in case of miscalculation and re check till i got to a spot that is pretty close to ( within a couple cpm usually ). Glue them together and make sure the ferrule sit nice and tight and shim it if I have to for 350 hosel. ( 5 minutes ). Wait 24 hrs to ensure epoxy bonding in full strength, turn down the ferrule to get a nice flush and shinny ( 5 minutes ). Double check on every spec if there is any missed calculation.

Bare in mind that CPM means nothing if we don't understand the character of the shaft and how they're build. The same cpm can feel boardy or noodly. So understanding the character of the shaft will lead me to make a decision what cpm number and tipping I should get/do. There are so many options on shaft spec and charracter that need to be considered before making decision.

Bare in mind also that tipping is not always the answer to get the cpm number, because tipping will change the character of the shaft on how it play.

Some work Requires more time if they want me to manipulate how the shaft sits in the hosel to achieve certain specs ie: more or less open face or loft.

Again, This is "my" way of doing it!

Regards,

Joe