Reshafting a Taylormade V-Steel with a .335 tip shaft

[drscott266]

I was hoping to get some advice on reshafting a TM V-steel 3 wood I have, but with a .335 tip shaft. The hosel is a .350 diameter, but I want to put a GD Purple Ice 75 into it, and that only comes in .335 tip. I talked to goflsmith and they recomended a ferrule adaptor that would take a .335 shaft and fit it into a .350 hosel. It looks like a ferrule that is stepped to widen the shaft towrads the top of the hosel, and get skinnier as it goes down. Should I just use a shim instead? Does any one have any advice on how they did this project, as I am sure I am not the first? Thanks for any help.

[ifixclubs]

i use brass shims and a 24hour cure epoxy whenever i install a .335 tip shaft into a .350 hosel...if brass shims cant be found you can just cut up an aluminum(coke) can and perforate it...

[Lowpro]

the plastic shim gsmith talked about works great. i use them all th etime and no worries.. or as stated the brass shims work good also. not a hard process.. the plstic shim is fool proof if you have never done one before.

[drscott266]

I have heard that people recommend the 24 hour epoxy for these out of the ordinary installations, but can i use the hour curing epoxy from Golfsmith. Is there a difference in the strengths of the epoxys that cure faster than 24 hours. I want to do this right, so if anyone can clarify the differences between faster curing epoxy's and the 24 hour kind please help.

[ifixclubs]

the 24 hour cure epoxy will definetely hold stronger for a longer time...much much stronger bond...

[drscott266]

Thanks for all the help! I will stick with the 24 hour epoxy and give this project a shot this weekend, when the shaft comes in.

[Confiado]

we share the same issue. i was also wondering how i can install a .335 shaft into my vsteel. just saw the shim at gsmith for $2.99 i'm going to try to reshaft my 5wood this weekend, hopefully it comes out okay. i'm going with the v2.

[MrMom]

Two weeks ago I did the same thing. It was my first time doing a reshaft. I was nervous. I read about someone who used too much heat and melted something inside of his V Steel where the bottom of the shaft sits on. Taking the too much heat issue into concideration it ended up being extreemly easy to do. I used the following:

 

I Already had:

Torch

Work bench with a rubber vise clamp

Tape. grip solvent, and grips

Ferrules

My wifes nail polish remover(used this to help get old epoxy out)

30/60 epoxy syringe (I used this to extend my putter shaft back to 35.5", the shorter shaft was killing my back)

 

What I purchased from golfsmith:

Basics of clubmaking (you do not realy need this)

Black and blue remover

Hosel protectors (I do not think I really needed them but it was nice having them)

Deluex Mr T ferrule installer

Hosel Cleaner (spiral sleeves) Carefule to not grind down the inside too much using these

Rod saw blade

Golfsmith graphite shaft pry bar

Golfsmith brass shims

 

Other tips(most of which I have gotten on this site):

 

Careful when you take off the old ferrule. Being my first time I ruined the NVS shaft that I was replacing, and nicked the paint on my V Steel. I used a razor blade and got too recklace.

 

You do not need to use much heat, and spread the heat out evenly when aplying it. Felt like I did not need the special pry bar, but gald I had it along with the hosel protectors.

 

Used nail polish remover to clean out old epoxy. Along with the Hosel cleaners attached to my drill. Carefull you do not want to take down the inside of the hosel too much.

 

Used the black and blue remover and the hosel cleaned up nicely.

 

For a shaft that has epoxy in the bottom of the tip use a small tipped nail to pop out old epoxy, instead of using a drill. In order to use this method you must regrip the club so the old epoxy can fall out.

 

Used a plastic pot scrubbed that is sort of like steel wool to rough up and prepare the tip section for the install. This was my Idea there may be better ways but I do not have a grinding wheel, and did not want to but special item just for this. As you can see I dumped enough already, but I am ready to do my last club the driver next.

 

I wanted the length of the club to be the same. So I cut the new shaft to be the same length as the shaft I was repalcing before I installed it. Not the right order in which to do things but it came out to the right length. You are supossed to cut to length after the club head has been attached.

 

After I put the ferrule on I used a popsicle stick that I grounded down on one side so it could fit inside the hosel. I used this to aply the epoxy inside the hosel. The I applied epoxy to the tip and then I put the shim on top of the epoxy and then put the shaft(with shim on) into the hosel. Made sure it was installed the whole way, spun the shaft around until the SST pure alignment was right, and set it down and tried to forget about it (trying not to touch it). I check the epoxy that I mixed up to see if had set after two hours and it did. I then put on the grip.

 

 

The next day I then played with the lead tape. The following is just my playing with the club:

I used the lead tape to get the correct feel. The VS shaft I got was used, and I am sure it was tipped. I sent it to Golfsmith to have it pured and as part of the process now it gives the CPMs of the shaft. The shaft had 317 Cpm. I needed it to play about 300 or just over 300 so I added close to equal amounts lead tape to the shaft at the bottom just above the ferrule, and under the grip. I did the same with tape on the low back center on the head and 14 inches from the end of the shaft. I used to play a 95 gram shaft so along with getting the weight to where I am used to it I also got the feel of the shaft to where I like it. I pounded it on the range off of hard rubber mats and no issues. My 3W is done. Just leaving me the driver to do (R7 SuperQuad TP 9.5 with the VS 80 X shaft, already have the weights and the shaft just waiting for the rpice to come down on the SQ TP).

 

Hope this helps

[Confiado]

how long did you have to heat the shaft for before the epoxy came loose????

[MrMom]

how long did you have to heat the shaft for before the epoxy came loose????

 

I would say only 30 to 45 seconds keeping the blue tip of the flame on the hosel, going up and down and around. The Epoxy that was in there actually started bubble out from under the ferrule, so I knew it was done. You could here it sizzle. Maybe I had applied mine too much even, but with the blue remover it was no no issue. I was amazed at how quickly it came off. It just popped right off, and I did not really have to pry at all. That is why I do not know if you need the pry bar, but like I said it was nice to have.

[mac94]

You got a shaft pured at a GS store? I thought you had to send them to Austin to do that?

[MrMom]

You got a shaft pured at a GS store? I thought you had to send them to Austin to do that?

 

I sent the shaft to Golfsmith to get it SST pured.

[ezra76]

Get the brass shim. I got that stupid plastic adaptor and the thing broke inside the hosel, the shaft tip collapsed and cracked and the head flew off my driver. I've done over a dozen reshafts into matching shaft/hosel diameters with no problems.