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Early Hogan Precision persimmon Woods


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615AD4B6-59EE-4136-97EE-D2A18653909E.jpeg.6118bf66c694cf14a41990f0c8c46d1d.jpeg93086028-3593-4F6A-BD3A-A5ADF46375D9.jpeg.984dec1e8099978dd03411aa08016242.jpeg615AD4B6-59EE-4136-97EE-D2A18653909E.jpeg.6118bf66c694cf14a41990f0c8c46d1d.jpegOkay, one more try!

 

I cannot find or respond to the thread I started called Hogan Precision Persimmon Woods, so I am restarting it with A little different title since I found out that they were early Hogan drivers. I really hope Joe S and northplatteriver can repost.

 

So here is what I have:

 

readers digest version- grandfather‘s golf clubs, he died thirty years ago, clubs have been sitting in my parents garage  until I got them a year ago because nobody in the family wanted those old clubs.

 

Joe S. Had me close to figuring out exactly what year they were from and northplatteriver the value until I couldn’t get back on.  

The 1 wood had a rattle inside it which Joe thought was possible rust in that had come from the handle.  I think the leather grips are original and Neumann Leather.

 

This forum was harder for me to figure out than how to learn to do telemedicine during this pandemic 😷 

 

So sorry and thanks again 🙏🤪

 

Steve (Murrsd)

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Is your goal to sell these or keep them?

If selling are you looking for a value?

If keeping are you planning on using them or just displaying them?

 

To be honest I wouldn't value these very high. The 4 and 5 are in decent enough condition. The driver is unfortunately doomed, the 3 wood suspect. The cost to repair and refinish would negate any profit margin. As is, the 4 woods might fetch $100 at best IMO. I don't see them high on the collectable market although they maybe somewhat rare.

 

If your plan is to put them in play then they should be given some attention in terms of repair. Are the heads secure on the shafts? Many times the epoxy has given way and the backscrew is the only means of support. Inserts and soleplates should be reset and clear coats applied to the entire head to seal from moisture absorption. 

 

Hope this helps in determining the fate of your grandfather's woods.

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Thank you so much for your response.  It is very helpful.  Initially I was going to clean these up and sell them because I have a newer set of Dunlop clubs and I only play about once a year.  Then I noticed how much better the weight and balance of these were compared to my newer clubs and am considering keeping them. The heads are all on tight.  Also the irons are in good shape with similar grips.  
 

Thanks for the repair advice!

 

Steve

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14 hours ago, raggal62 said:

Is your goal to sell these or keep them?

If selling are you looking for a value?

If keeping are you planning on using them or just displaying them?

 

To be honest I wouldn't value these very high. The 4 and 5 are in decent enough condition. The driver is unfortunately doomed, the 3 wood suspect. The cost to repair and refinish would negate any profit margin. As is, the 4 woods might fetch $100 at best IMO. I don't see them high on the collectable market although they maybe somewhat rare.

 

If your plan is to put them in play then they should be given some attention in terms of repair. Are the heads secure on the shafts? Many times the epoxy has given way and the backscrew is the only means of support. Inserts and soleplates should be reset and clear coats applied to the entire head to seal from moisture absorption. 

 

Hope this helps in determining the fate of your grandfather's woods.

Very well put.  The monetary value of these clubs is quite low and probably wouldn't be worth the trouble of selling them.  The sentimental value would to me be very high if they belonged to a long passed family member although I am admittedly nostalgic and sentimental about such things.  No way would I sell my Grandpa's clubs!

I also agree with raggal62's take on playing them as-is.  They may feel alright but you'd likely be compromising them by taking them out for play without having them rebuilt and resealed.  Those woods will soak up moisture like a sponge.  Again if they were my Grandpa's clubs I'd seriously consider keeping them just as they are - dirt in the grooves and all.  

The irons on the other hand should be just fine to take out to the course and I recommend that you do.  I think your Grandpa would approve of that.  😃

Edited by Swingingk
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On 3/20/2021 at 9:52 PM, Swingingk said:

Very well put.  The monetary value of these clubs is quite low and probably wouldn't be worth the trouble of selling them.  The sentimental value would to me be very high if they belonged to a long passed family member although I am admittedly nostalgic and sentimental about such things.  No way would I sell my Grandpa's clubs!

I also agree with raggal62's take on playing them as-is.  They may feel alright but you'd likely be compromising them by taking them out for play without having them rebuilt and resealed.  Those woods will soak up moisture like a sponge.  Again if they were my Grandpa's clubs I'd seriously consider keeping them just as they are - dirt in the grooves and all.  

The irons on the other hand should be just fine to take out to the course and I recommend that you do.  I think your Grandpa would approve of that.  😃

 

On 3/20/2021 at 9:52 PM, Swingingk said:

Very well put.  The monetary value of these clubs is quite low and probably wouldn't be worth the trouble of selling them.  The sentimental value would to me be very high if they belonged to a long passed family member although I am admittedly nostalgic and sentimental about such things.  No way would I sell my Grandpa's clubs!

I also agree with raggal62's take on playing them as-is.  They may feel alright but you'd likely be compromising them by taking them out for play without having them rebuilt and resealed.  Those woods will soak up moisture like a sponge.  Again if they were my Grandpa's clubs I'd seriously consider keeping them just as they are - dirt in the grooves and all.  

The irons on the other hand should be just fine to take out to the course and I recommend that you do.  I think your Grandpa would approve of that.  😃

Thank you for your comments and advice. I will likely keep the clubs, but I am curious about when they were made and why he had a Precision Personal Model and a Precision Saber 100.  I would have thought that they came in a set but maybe they didn’t back then?  Also,  I was looking online and cannot find reference to Ben Hogan Precision Persimmon  No. 5 Wood - Personal Model.

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In the 1950's a 5 wood was generally not included in men's sets, unless they were senior or women's clubs. They could however be special ordered. I'm thinking the 5 falls under that category. I would be curious to see the difference between the 4 wood and 5 wood shafts. Are the shaft labels still intact on both and legible? Is the 5 wood slightly shorter than the 4? Or is the difference more like an inch or more? Also check out both shafts step patterns. Any difference between the two?

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3 hours ago, raggal62 said:

In the 1950's a 5 wood was generally not included in men's sets, unless they were senior or women's clubs. They could however be special ordered. I'm thinking the 5 falls under that category. I would be curious to see the difference between the 4 wood and 5 wood shafts. Are the shaft labels still intact on both and legible? Is the 5 wood slightly shorter than the 4? Or is the difference more like an inch or more? Also check out both shafts step patterns. Any difference between the two?

Here are some pictures of the two clubs. The 4 is 1/2 inch longer than the 5.   They seem to have the same shaft.

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14 hours ago, Murrsd said:

 

Thank you for your comments and advice. I will likely keep the clubs, but I am curious about when they were made and why he had a Precision Personal Model and a Precision Saber 100.  I would have thought that they came in a set but maybe they didn’t back then?  Also,  I was looking online and cannot find reference to Ben Hogan Precision Persimmon  No. 5 Wood - Personal Model.

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I think "late 50's" is about as close as you're going to get to figuring out when they were made unless a catalog collector chimes in.  

As for why it isn't a matching set I will say that it is not at all uncommon for a golfer to carry multiple brands and models in their bag, yesterday as it is today.  In fact early players rarely had matching sets of anything in their kits, sometimes each club from a different maker.  I'd suggest that he likely bought trade-ins from a local pro-shop or perhaps bought new at different times, adding and upgrading as needed just like modern golfers do.  Pretty normal really.    

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30 minutes ago, Swingingk said:

I think "late 50's" is about as close as you're going to get to figuring out when they were made unless a catalog collector chimes in.  

As for why it isn't a matching set I will say that it is not at all uncommon for a golfer to carry multiple brands and models in their bag, yesterday as it is today.  In fact early players rarely had matching sets of anything in their kits, sometimes each club from a different maker.  I'd suggest that he likely bought trade-ins from a local pro-shop or perhaps bought new at different times, adding and upgrading as needed just like modern golfers do.  Pretty normal really.    

Thanks, I will see if my dad remembers.  As you were posting this I received a message from Joe S. who has a ... catalog😅.   If I am reading this right it looks like the 4 wood is from 1957.  Saber 100 with no speed slot. 
 

Steve

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You'll likely need that if you plan on playing the club.  It'll probably be way too light without it.

 

I may be saying the equivalent of "water is wet," but felt I should chime in, anyway.  😁

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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Just now, Murrsd said:

It's about the size of a large pea.  Would I epoxy glue it inside that chamber?

 

Thats how I'd deal with it.  I'm hoping our more experienced persimmon clubwork gents will chime in if I'm giving poor info...

 

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini 11.5*, 43.5", Phenom NL 60X -or- Cobra SpeedZone, ProtoPype 80S, 43.5"

Fwy woods: King LTD 3/4, RIP Beta 90X -or- TM Sim2 Ti 3w, NV105 X
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h, MMT 80 S 

Irons grab bag:  1-PW Golden Ram TW276, NV105 S; 1-PW Golden Ram TW282, RIP Tour 115 R; 2-PW Golden Ram Vibration Matched, NS Pro 950WF S
Wedges:  Dynacraft Dual Millled 52*, SteelFiber i125 S -or- Scratch 8620 DD 53*, SteelFiber i125 S; Cobra Snakebite 56* -or- Wilson Staff PMP 58*, Dynamic S -or- Ram TW282 SW -or- Ram TW276 SW
Putter:  Snake Eyes Viper Tour Sv1, 34" -or- Cleveland Huntington Beach #1, 34.5" -or- Golden Ram TW Custom, 34" -or- Rife Bimini, 34" -or- Maxfli TM-2, 35"
Balls: Chrome Soft, Kirkland Signature 3pc (v3)

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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