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Couple of newbie adapter change questions


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Sorry...sure these have been asked before, but my search came up with too much to wade through.

 

Decided to start changing my own driver shaft adapters.  Bought a nice shaft extractor, torch, etc.

 

First go at it went pretty well.  Callaway to Ping (OEM).  Couple issues I'd like some help with.

 

1.  The ferrule that was used on Cally tip......it was completely on shaft with epoxy.  Some heat and scraping got most of it off......but now I'm left with about 3/8" of an over prepped tip.  That's above the Ping OEM ferrule.  What options do you guys have other than tipping the shaft 3/8?  Is there a way to try and avoid this in the future?  I've got a couple more to do with Cally tips and ferrules.  I'd like to think they're not all bonded on there with a bunch of epoxy and I can heat/cut them off before pulling my next tip.

 

2.  The one thing I haven't invested in is a belt sander.  So for now prep is by hand.  When reusing these shafts, how much sanding is enough....how much is too much?  Reason I'm doing my own is I had a good shaft ruined by PGASS (they took care of me) because of too much heat.....so I've seen what happens when the fibers get compromised.  So I might be a little hesitant with the sand paper getting the old epoxy off.  Do I need to get it all off....right down to the graphite?  Or am I ok smoothing it out, even though some epoxy may remain?  Any techniques on getting it off without damaging the shaft are much appreciated.

 

Next up is a Ventus TR......and I really want to try my best to get it right and avoid ruining a $300 shaft.  🙂

 

Thanks!!! 

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24 minutes ago, Flyguppy said:

1.  The ferrule that was used on Cally tip......it was completely on shaft with epoxy.  Some heat and scraping got most of it off......but now I'm left with about 3/8" of an over prepped tip.  That's above the Ping OEM ferrule.  What options do you guys have other than tipping the shaft 3/8?  Is there a way to try and avoid this in the future?  I've got a couple more to do with Cally tips and ferrules.  I'd like to think they're not all bonded on there with a bunch of epoxy and I can heat/cut them off before pulling my next tip.

 

Some ideas (other than tipping) that come to mind would be:

Paint (I'd try the kind used by modelers)

colored tape super glued on

heat shrink

 

Sorry are you saying that the tip was prepped under the ferrule before you removed the ferrule or as a result of you removing the ferrule?

 

With a heat gun and a plastic scraper (or even an old credit card), you should be able to remove any ferrule and epoxy without damaging the paint.

 

If someone else prepped the area of the tip under the ferrule, there's not a lot you can do about it.  Normally there is no need to prep under the ferrule.  

 

But even with a more carefully prepared tip, it's hard to avoid having some of the prepped area show when going from any other OEM to a Ping adapter.

 

24 minutes ago, Flyguppy said:

2.  The one thing I haven't invested in is a belt sander.  So for now prep is by hand.  When reusing these shafts, how much sanding is enough....how much is too much?  Reason I'm doing my own is I had a good shaft ruined by PGASS (they took care of me) because of too much heat.....so I've seen what happens when the fibers get compromised.  So I might be a little hesitant with the sand paper getting the old epoxy off.  Do I need to get it all off....right down to the graphite?  Or am I ok smoothing it out, even though some epoxy may remain?  Any techniques on getting it off without damaging the shaft are much appreciated.

 

you just need to

1) get the paint off and down to the actual graphite

2) make sure it isn't too big to fit fully inserted into the hosel.

 

Graphite tips are significantly reinforced, you'll have problems with the glue joint because the shaft is too loose in the hosel well before you have to worry about  the tip structurally.

 

FWIW - I use a coarse flat file  instead of sandpaper.  It cuts much better (not abrasive) and much more cleanly and better control.   Haven't bothered with a belt sander in the 24+ years I've been doing this.  And I wouldn't use it even if I had one.

Edited by Stuart_G
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1) Really no way around tipping it, other than covering it with tape or painting the tip. Or leaving it exposed.

 

2) I've never sanded a graphite shaft tip. I always use a utility knife, and scrape the paint or epoxy off. Zero damage to the shaft that way.

Srixon Z545 8.5° - Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 3 iron)

Piretti Cottonwood II, 375g - KBS GPS, P2 Aware Tour

Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

Maxfli Tour Yellow

Vessel Player III - Iridium

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19 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Some ideas (other than tipping) that come to mind would be:

Paint (I'd try the kind used by modelers)

colored tape super glued on

heat shrink

 

Sorry are you saying that the tip was prepped under the ferrule before you removed the ferrule or as a result of you removing the ferrule?

 

It was probably a combination.  I didn't think I'd be able to get the epoxy off without damaging the paint.  Will give the heat/plastic scraper a go.

 

19 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

 

you just need to

1) get the paint off and down to the actual graphite

2) make sure it isn't too big to fit fully inserted into the hosel.

 

Graphite tips are significantly reinforced, you'll have problems with the glue joint because the shaft is too loose in the hosel well before you have to worry about  the tip structurally.

 

FWIW - I use a coarse flat file  instead of sandpaper.  It cuts much better (not abrasive) and much more cleanly and better control.   Haven't bothered with a belt sander in the 24+ years I've been doing this.  And I wouldn't use it even if I had one.

 

Reusing the shaft, so paint is gone.  More about getting the old epoxy off.  So I'm guessing a touch of heat and the plastic scraper here too....will work wonders?

 

Good to hear that I'm a little over worried about screwing up the fibers.

 

Thanks!!!

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22 minutes ago, Ger21 said:

 

2) I've never sanded a graphite shaft tip. I always use a utility knife, and scrape the paint or epoxy off. Zero damage to the shaft that way.

 

Guessing that with a small amount of heat to soften it up a touch?  Was scraping it before I tried sanding.....was probably just a bit too worried about the graphite.  I was using a utility knife, but with the sharp edge facing opposite the scrape direction so I didn't cut into graphite.  I didn't soften it though.....and felt like I was scraping a bit hard.

 

Thanks!

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5 minutes ago, Flyguppy said:

Reusing the shaft, so paint is gone.  More about getting the old epoxy off.  So I'm guessing a touch of heat and the plastic scraper here too....will work wonders?

 

If it's area that's already been prepped and just needs to be cleaned up after the pull,  I may scrape off as much epoxy as possible right after I pull it - and the plastic scraper is only if you need to protect the paint.  A utility knife blade can be used (held perpendicular - 90* to the surface) if you don't have to worry about the paint.   But after the shaft has cooled down, I don't bother with heat unless the epoxy is still on fairly thick.  Normally I just go at it with the flat file cold.  If heated the epoxy would just gum up the file (or sandpaper).   I only heat before scraping.

Edited by Stuart_G
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8 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Normally I just go at it with the flat file cold.  If heated the epoxy would just gum up the file (or sandpaper).   I only heat before scraping.

 

Thanks!!!

 

And you're referring to something similar to this to file off old epoxy to get down to the graphite?

 

Screenshot2024-03-01at8_20_36AM.png.02d7e5ef1e20f81f39bc143689611a54.png

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11 minutes ago, Flyguppy said:

Guessing that with a small amount of heat to soften it up a touch?

No, I never apply heat. It's easiest to remove the epoxy right after you pull it, but it's not that hard even when it's still hard. Like Stuart says, blade 90° to the shaft, and scrape towards the tip. With a good sharp blade, it cleans up quickly, and will not even scratch the shaft. And graphite shafts do not have to be "roughed up" to bond well. Just scraped smooth and clean.

Srixon Z545 8.5° - Attas 11 7S
Honma TW747 3HL (16.5°) - Tour AD-IZ 7S

Honma TW747 7 wood - Attas 5 GoGo 7S

Honma TW-X 3 iron - Vizzard 85S (alternates with LW)

4-PW 2015 OnOff Forged Kuro - AMT Tour White X100 SSx2

50°-08 - Fourteen RM-4 - AMT X100
56°-10 - Fourteen RM-4 H grind - AMT X100
64°-10 - Callaway Jaws Full Toe Black - Dynamic Gold Spinner (alternates with 3 iron)

Piretti Cottonwood II, 375g - KBS GPS, P2 Aware Tour

Grips - Star Sidewinder 360

Maxfli Tour Yellow

Vessel Player III - Iridium

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9 hours ago, Ger21 said:

No, I never apply heat. It's easiest to remove the epoxy right after you pull it, but it's not that hard even when it's still hard. Like Stuart says, blade 90° to the shaft, and scrape towards the tip. With a good sharp blade, it cleans up quickly, and will not even scratch the shaft. And graphite shafts do not have to be "roughed up" to bond well. Just scraped smooth and clean.

 

Just a quick thanks to you and @Stuart_G.  I was just being too easy with the scraping for fear of damaging the shaft. 

 

A new blade in the knife and a little more pressure and shaft looks great. 

 

Will try the other tips on the ferrule removal without paint damage on the next one. 

 

Really appreciate the help!

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