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Milling Anser Face


bigpopper81

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I would assume so... but ou would have to go pretty deep I would think.

 

Going to lose weight on it. As well as hopefully it comes out even...

 

 

are you doing this on your own or sending it out?

 

and please dont make my answer the end of your search... hopefully some more experienced club makers or machinests will chime in for you..

 

 

good luck.

 

M.

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Would milling the face of an Anser help the ball come off a little softer?

 

 

I would think that you wouldn't want to do that. Milling is supposed to be done with some high grade materials, you can get a lot of imperfections in cast heads. MPH is right, you will make the head even lighter than it already is.

 

jay

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I'm really just exploring ideas right now. I don't have the right tools and would have it done somewhere else. The lighter putter would be a problem but I think there are a couple options for fixing that. I'm by no means an Anser purist (hence considering milling the face) so drilling the bottom out to insert heavier metals or even melting lead into the back cavity are not out of the question. Again, just exploring. Any other ideas or criticism is welcome.

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Would milling the face of an Anser help the ball come off a little softer?

 

I would get a putter with an insert face or put a slot it in. From my understanding, you will lose a significant amount of weight with re-milling and one method is to actually fill in the old grooves and then re-mill.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes you can mill the face of the anser to give it the raised grooves of the traditional milled face clubs.

I don't think the voids in the casting are an issue. Karsten Manufacturing has superb process control for the casting process. Is this a bronze version?

You can mill a cylinder out of the toe and heel from the sole and add either lead or tungsten pins to get the weight back up.

Be sure to use a fly cutter for the facing....if you want the 'groove ' pattern that seems to be the fashion.

Also be sure that the machinist grinds the tool to generate a symetric groove.

 

Dr.David

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I have a Dalehead Anser for sale/trade that is pretty soft.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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I asked Tom if he could add tungsten weights on the sole towards the heel and toe of my Anser and he said no. At the time, he said he hasn't worked too much with tungsten because it is so hard to cut and also, there isn't enough material to cut out to add a significant amount of weight. He could insert them on the face, but not on the sole. He is a class act and I appreciated his honesty.

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Yep...good old lead tape on the sole remains the best way to add weight to a putter.

 

I have to agree with the lead tape.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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