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How did they do it


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I'm sure that they did it the same way as it is done now. The equipment might have been more rudimentary, but it's the same process. Bend. Measure and repeat. I wonder how far back Mitchell goes?

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (Didn't make the cut)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (still the GOAT)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 56°, SM2 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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A vise , blow torch, lead hammer, and oak block were in most pro shops. There was a tool made by Ellingham, which went into a vise. Arnie was constantly using my dad's Ellingham and lead hammer when he was in The Western Opens sat Beverly CC in the sixties. Toney and my Dad could put an iron in a vise ad hit it on the toe or heel and change lies and lofts. I marveled at the accuracy when I put a protracter on the club

CHARLEY PENNA

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Education is just a shortcut to experience. Trial and error would take a lot of time and ruined clubs. The WWII pros started as caddies or were apprentices to club makers. Toney Penna started by sanding saplings into shafts after caddying. He looped for Tommy Armour and became his assistant at Congressional.

I don't do any club making any longer. My tinkering is reserved to changing grips, or lead tape

CHARLEY PENNA

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[quote name='stevemcgee99' timestamp='1427316171' post='11215185']
The guy who bent my clubs used a very simple tool - one that could easily have been built in the 20's if not the 50's.

A vice to clamp the club head.
A 'wrench' to grip the hosel and bend.
A protractor to show the new lie / loft measured against the shaft.
[/quote]That is exactly the way I did it in the 70s. I used a long pipe wrench with flattened copper pipe inserts to prevent scarring and also used copper pipe on the vise jaws. I used an ordinary protractor to check the results. A real old timer taught me this method when I was a kid and first started tinkering with clubs. Did it that way until the turn of the century when I bought my current loft and lie machine

Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

3W--- TM V-Steel TMR7 REAX 55g R

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

9W--- TM V Steel Stock V Steel R flex shaft

5 Hybrid-- Cobra Baffler DWS NVS 60A High Launch

Irons 5 thru PW 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW -- Cleveland 588 56* Shaft Unknown

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Rusty 1997 Scottie Santa Fe-- Fluted Bulls Eye Shaft

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[quote name='golfnut1964' timestamp='1427317755' post='11215375']
stevemcgee

did you happen to watch ? any heating up of hosel at all ? Simple pipe wrench or ?

thnx in advance
[/quote]

You've surely got to be careful using heat. A lot of old school irons were pinned, or had some other form of mechanical fixing to reinforce the weak glue joint. I've seen one set of irons from the late 50s which appear to have been pinned, but not glued at all. But if you're relying on glue to hold the head on the shaft, then the same heat that softens your hosel for bending is also softening the glue.

Or, as I discovered pulling my last set of iron shafts, blowing the head clean off and scattering various kitchen implements...

On the other hand, old school forged heads will bend readily in the absence of heat - provided you have the head secured and a couple of feet of leverage

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Bend all irons with NO heat. It isn't needed or desired and as pointed out, it is going to affect the bond.

Ping G430 10K 10.5º Chrome 2.0 S (Didn't make the cut)

Ping G400 9º TFC 419 Stiff at 45" (still the GOAT)

Jazz 3 wd Powercoil Stiff
Rogue 3iron Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
X2 Hot 4-AW Recoil 660 F3 +1/2"
Vokey SM2 56°, SM2 60°
Ping Sigma2 Valor at 34.75"
MCC Align Midsize

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