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Epoxy curing times... Is longer the only way to go?


drscott266

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I have checked around Golfsmith, and have found epoxys that cure much faster than the orignal package of 18 hour that i purchased. Is there any reason not to use the faster curing epoxys? I recently picked up some 30/60 epoxy, which says it would be ready to go in about an hour or so, which suits my short patience level much better than over night.

Basically, I am wondering if using quicker curing epoxy compromises the overall quality of the bond? The label on the 20/60 says it can handle any material, so I am looking for some previous experience or advice. Thanks.

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I would not use any epoxy not marketed as golf epoxy. I'm sure there's stuff out there as good or better than "golf epoxy" but I wouldn't want to take the chance of having a mishap with, say, a 5 iron being swung at max velocity.

 

As for the golf epoxies that are quick curing, I know the tour vans use stuff that sets in about 12 minutes so I would think that stuff is good to go--given the ramification of failure at that high level.

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Faster curing types tend to be more brittle and more prone to failure. 20/60 is pretty good though...much better than 5minute.

 

What you can do is use 24 hour then put a heat lamp (I use a 500watt halogen, 1000 watt is alittle too hot) on the club. Usually done in about 2 hours. Actually strengthens the resultant bond.

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What he said is correct. 5 minute epoxy's tend to have much lower shear strengths and are more brittle than the 1 hr.+ varieties. Using heat will certainly speed up the cure but too much will result in the same problems as 5 minute. How does "tour van" applications survive, maybe the calculated stress is much lower than one thinks!

 

I personally would not expect "golf" epoxy's to be any different than most general purpose, over the counter, hardware store varieties, just repackaged from a major supplier.

 

I have found 3M epoxy's to be great. The biggest difference is in the viscosity. Too thin and it will run out of the joint before it's cured, too thick, and it won't wet the surfaces as well.

 

ALways use as directed, as those compounds are somewhat toxic.

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As a hobbyist, I've tried a variety of the quicker setting types over the last couple of years. I've actually had better luck with the 10 minute Tour Van GS variety than the 30/60. I've had a couple of installations not hold with 30/60 in the last couple of months....and I'm fairly particular about hosel and tip prep.

 

I wouldn't use either for any installation where there is anything but a snug fit, but would favor the 24 hour mix with beads. Heat, up to a point, is your friend when it comes to curing epoxy. In summertime, I've been able to cure 24 hour epoxy by setting the club up in the back seat of a car in the driveway, where it might get up to 110 to 120, well within the tolerance range for the materials. Four hours at 120 is fine for setting 24 hour epoxy, but I always leave the remains of the mix in the place where I'm curing the club, just to be sure.

 

Most bond failures relate to two issues: hosel and tip surface prep, and hosel/tip fit. Loose fits are tough for any type of epoxy, due to the compression stress that have been mentioned in the forum previously. Hosel prep should be intuitive as to why it is critical.

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What he said is correct. 5 minute epoxy's tend to have much lower shear strengths and are more brittle than the 1 hr.+ varieties. Using heat will certainly speed up the cure but too much will result in the same problems as 5 minute. How does "tour van" applications survive, maybe the calculated stress is much lower than one thinks!

 

I personally would not expect "golf" epoxy's to be any different than most general purpose, over the counter, hardware store varieties, just repackaged from a major supplier.

 

 

Few epoxies available in hardware stores have lap shear strengths above 2000, which is essential for the type of stress the bond endures during impact with the ball. Golfsmith's tour van epoxy is a special formulation that has a shear strength suitable for club repair/assembly.

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