Where to find a chart or reference

[CoachRich]

I am going to be pulling shafts from somewhere to install in a bargain set,  could be DG or ZZ or something else I can score from old cheap set somewhere....

 

Would seem wise to check tip length or something of that nature, to know if they are going in the proper club - regardless what they had been in - who knows if that was correct to begin with.  But, what that tip length should be for a given shaft model and for each iron - I assume varies from shaft to shaft model.

 

Is there some place to find reference point as to how long the tip should be for x,y or z # iron depending on the shaft model in question. 

Assuming this exists but not sure where to find it is all.  

 

Most likely TrueTemper Dynamic something or ZZ.  Not running into much with Nippon ProModus (although I have them in set these will be sidelining) in the price range of sets I'm looking at.   The set has to be inexpensive to the point it can easily recoup the expense after I throw some other shafts in there - which will also need the reference above because they are a mismash from two prior sets and have to ensure they'll be playable at least.

 

 

 

Thanks!

Edited Thursday at 07:12 AM by CoachRich

[Stuart_G]

Sorry, not that I've ever heard of or run across.

 

With graphite you'd have to get the parallel tip length specs of the uncut shafts and then get the calipers out.

 

With steel I'm not even sure that would work as you can't assume the entire tip below the last step was meant to be tipped.  But at least you could use the step patterns to check the relative amount of tipping between different shafts.

 

If it's really a big worry, best bet would be to stick to taper tip shafts and use the etching in the butt end of the shaft to identify it's in the right iron.

 

Edited Thursday at 09:42 AM by Stuart_G

[CoachRich]

6 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

Sorry, not that I've ever heard of or run across.

 

With graphite you'd have to get the parallel tip length specs of the uncut shafts and then get the calipers out.

 

With steel I'm not even sure that would work as you can't assume the entire tip below the last step was meant to be tipped.  But at least you could use the step patterns to check the relative amount of tipping between different shafts.

 

If it's really a big worry, best bet would be to stick to taper tip shafts and use the etching in the butt end of the shaft to identify it's in the right iron.

 

Thanks Stuart.

 

If this is regarding a shaft I've ever owned or have, the butt will have been cut some, so unsure if the etching may not have been cut away already.

 

Your reply somewhat reinforces my concern with buying 2nd hand shafts given my limited tools and reference points.

Has me thinking two options are likely best ..... 

1.  Just see if the stock shafts aren't as bad as I fear, as golfers we tend to adjust more than forum exchanges would imply. 

2.  I may need to go two routes only if replacing,  either a) just pull my current shafts and insert them, or b) directly transfer from an existing set that I purchase and trust until they show to be a huge problem.

 

Thanks!

[Stuart_G]

22 minutes ago, CoachRich said:

Thanks Stuart.

 

If this is regarding a shaft I've ever owned or have, the butt will have been cut some, so unsure if the etching may not have been cut away already.

 

Your reply somewhat reinforces my concern with buying 2nd hand shafts given my limited tools and reference points.

Has me thinking two options are likely best ..... 

1.  Just see if the stock shafts aren't as bad as I fear, as golfers we tend to adjust more than forum exchanges would imply. 

2.  I may need to go two routes only if replacing,  either a) just pull my current shafts and insert them, or b) directly transfer from an existing set that I purchase and trust until they show to be a huge problem.

 

Thanks!

 

More possible options.

 

TT DG step paterns are well documented - probably the only shaft I've seen this has been done and made public. 

So IF that shaft is known to be a good fit, that's one that's easy to check for used.

 

Also use the known history of the used clubs.  If you're buying from the original owner and they are a factory build - it's not something you generally have to worry about.  Sure even factories mess up from time to time but not really enough or really in a way that warrants one being worried about it.

 

Finally - just demo the clubs before buying.  If the whole set feels uniform and the feel of the shafts seem to be a good fit - then nothing else really matters.  Don't make it any more complex than it needs to be or sweat over stuff that isn't important.

Edited Thursday at 04:44 PM by Stuart_G

[CoachRich]

Thanks.

 

One set I know and fits my budget plan, besides my own, is 845s and the TourStep (which I consider to be a foolishly dismissed shaft on some level)  meaning if that's in there it is most certainly from the factory.

Surely if they've worked ok before they'd be at least playable now and 845s if bought for under $75 will sell for nearly that much ...... or it is so minimal, I'd just hang on to them for one of our players who shows up with pawn shop Heinz57 iron set.