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MP-67 w/ Nippon 1150...Advice Please!


golpoo

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Hello, I am in the process of deciding on a new set of irons/shafts and have been driving myself crazy recently and would appreciate some advice. Some info on my swing/game:

 

Handicap: ~5

Driver SS: ~100-105 mph

Tempo: More smooth than agressive

Ball Flight: Mid-ish

7 iron distance ~ 160 yds

 

I'm very interested in the Mizuno MP-67's. I demoed these and MP-60s at the range recently (6 iron each) and surprisingly hit the 67's consistently better and the feel was great on them. Not to mention they look awesome. Not sure how well I'd handle the 3 & 4 irons though (some comments on the long iron difficulty of MP-67 owners would be nice). I've never hit Nippon shafts except a couple balls with 950gh (too light feeling) and would like to hear some comments on Mizuno/1150gh (or 1050) combo. Also would the 1150gh in stiff be ideal for my swing speed? From what I gather its a very smooth feeling shaft which I figure would fit nicely with the soft feel of Mizuno heads. Also, I was thinking the mid kick on the nippons combined with the higher COG on the 67 may help keep me from hitting it too low since I don't hit the ball especially high anyways.

 

Mizuno only offers the 950gh so getting the 1150's or 1050's installed would cost an extra $400-$450 for 3-PW (does that sound about right?) at the 2 authorized nippon installation centers I checked with. Pricey, but if its the bomb shaft then I'll probably do it. Any thoughts on the above would be greatly appreciated as I have been going nutty over all this lately. Also any other shaft recommendations for the MP-67 (don't like PX, shaft feels dead to me)? Gracias!

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I currently play MP30 with 1150 stiff (spined...pured all that).. I am getting my mp32 set with PX 5.5 next week.

 

I've hit MP67 at a store, and a set of my friend's for the long irons.

 

If you are making decision on switing to a new set, i'd highly recommend that you hit the long irons (3 and 4) before you make the switch. I played many different heads of blade (nike, mizuno mp33, miura, etc). and like many people here, you won't have any problem hitting the mid or short irons on any of the blades...it's mainly the feel/distance/head design that people have different opinions.

 

But, One thing for sure is that the long irons of blades are more difficult than half or full cavity back. I currently play halo 22 instead of my 3 iron, but getting MP 60 iron to along with my MP32's. (I took my friend's never used 3 iron from his MP60 set).

 

I haven't hit 950 or 1050's, but heard that there are higher ball flight than 1150. and i'm already a high ball hitter...

 

Also, if your distance of 160 for 7 iron is with some cavity back iron, in most cases, you will lose some distance when you make the switch. I used to play bridgestone j33 cavity back. my iron for the club would go up to 170 with a normal swing. With my MP-30, it only goes 160~163. (same loft, same length, slightly different shaft).

 

good luck.

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I currently play MP30 with 1150 stiff (spined...pured all that).. I am getting my mp32 set with PX 5.5 next week.

 

I've hit MP67 at a store, and a set of my friend's for the long irons.

 

If you are making decision on switing to a new set, i'd highly recommend that you hit the long irons (3 and 4) before you make the switch. I played many different heads of blade (nike, mizuno mp33, miura, etc). and like many people here, you won't have any problem hitting the mid or short irons on any of the blades...it's mainly the feel/distance/head design that people have different opinions.

 

But, One thing for sure is that the long irons of blades are more difficult than half or full cavity back. I currently play halo 22 instead of my 3 iron, but getting MP 60 iron to along with my MP32's. (I took my friend's never used 3 iron from his MP60 set).

 

I haven't hit 950 or 1050's, but heard that there are higher ball flight than 1150. and i'm already a high ball hitter...

 

Also, if your distance of 160 for 7 iron is with some cavity back iron, in most cases, you will lose some distance when you make the switch. I used to play bridgestone j33 cavity back. my iron for the club would go up to 170 with a normal swing. With my MP-30, it only goes 160~163. (same loft, same length, slightly different shaft).

 

good luck.

 

Thanks for the replies. ironplayer, what other shaft combinations did you try with your MP30's and what made you decide on the 1150's? How would you say they compare with DG S300 (besides being lighter)?

 

I was worried about distance loss with the 67's since they're a degree weaker compared to the 60's and most other clubs nowadays but when I demoed them I couldn't notice any difference in distance. Was only one large bucket of testing though. Also I've been lifting in the offseason so hopefully that will help :russian_roulette:

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I saw were you said that the mp-67 has a high COG. This helps produce a lower shot... not higher.

 

Correct. Guess I wasn't entirely clear, I was referring to the higher COG of the clubhead in combo with the Nippon (mid kick) versus say S300 (high kick) would give some more help getting the ball up especially in the long irons. Although as ironplayer posted hes heard the 1150s produce a lower ball flight than the 950s or 1050s, I'm assuming they'd still launch a bit higher than S300. Yes?

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One word of caution, do not mix the 1050 and 1150 models within your iron set. These are two different shaft geometries and you will find yourself switching and adjusting your swing. This mixing of shaft models might sound good to you in your head, but I imagine you also are planning to hit these on the golf course. Regards, 3

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Nippon 1150's are a very good choice. Your ss & 7 iron carry is very close to mine, and I have gone to a Miura combo set and will stick with these for a while (check out my sig). The shaft plays true to flex, unlike the lighter Nippon models. Ball flight is mid/low, but the feedback is incredible. They are also extremely precise and disperse very little.

 

Not sure if you've mentioned this, but what irons are you getting out of and why? It may help with the decision of which way to go, aside from just the aesthetics.

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Cant really comment on the shafts but in answer to your long iron question i think you have to be a solid ball striker and consistant. I think its very important in long irons to get the right shaft so you really need to try out the 3 or 4 iron at the range before you pull the trigger. Obviously will take time to adjust and get the most out of them but once you know the charactersitics of the club you will know how to hit them and you should get great results! Best of luck

 

Projamie

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Nippon 1150's are a very good choice. Your ss & 7 iron carry is very close to mine, and I have gone to a Miura combo set and will stick with these for a while (check out my sig). The shaft plays true to flex, unlike the lighter Nippon models. Ball flight is mid/low, but the feedback is incredible. They are also extremely precise and disperse very little.

 

Not sure if you've mentioned this, but what irons are you getting out of and why? It may help with the decision of which way to go, aside from just the aesthetics.

 

Nice review on the 1150s. I'll definitely try them out before buying but its good to know they work nicely for someone with similar ss. Another question, did you have your shafts pured or spined? Was wondering if it matters to have it done for a shaft that seems to be of the highest quality.

 

I've been playing Hogan Apex Plus for the past 7 years or so. They've been good for me but its definitely time for a new set. I initially had my eyes set on the mp60's mainly due to the similarity in looks but after trying out the 60's and 67's, much more interested in the 67s. But like others have suggested I'm looking to test the long irons in the 67s which will probably be the deciding factor for me. I've never played blades before except for 8-pw of a Wilson Staff combo set back in the day when I started. Also interested in the Titleist ZB but haven't hit it yet (don't know about z shape on the back though), and maybe Callaway X-forged. Will also buy a new driver. I've never been fitted before though so this time I'm definitely looking to go all out. Been very excited and confused lately. Thanks all for the input.

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Another question, did you have your shafts pured or spined? Was wondering if it matters to have it done for a shaft that seems to be of the highest quality.

 

After playing a set of irons for 7 years, this must be a very exciting time for you. Either way you go, I think you'll find technology to your advantage, and even long irons won't be too hard to catch flush.

 

I didn't pure or spine the shafts, and they're working out just fine. Definitely get fitted and have the lie angles adjusted to fit your swing. You won't regret.

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golpoo,

 

I have just been working through almost your exact scenario, so hopefully I can offer some insight that will help out. Please forgive my long-windedness. Perhaps through my babbling you'll find something of use.

 

6 months ago, I purchased a 6 iron MP-67 and MP-33 from eBay and rounded up both a Nippon 1150 stiff and a 1050 stiff and put one in each head to test. My swing speed, etc is pretty close to yours. 5 hcp, driver more like 105-108. I did all the research, read everything I could here and elsewhere and then gave them each a spot in my normal set for periods of time in addition to extensive range testing.

 

First, on the heads: Because I knew with the 67s I'd have to buy them, then spend a bunch on new Nippons, I thought I'd try the 33. There's not much difference besides aesthetics and the 33 sweet spot might be a FRACTION closer to the heel (which works for me b/c that's my miss). Once I realized I could hit either 6 iron as well as anything else I've played, I took the next step and procured an mp-67 4 iron, again on ebay. 4 iron is the top of my iron set and I actually hit it as well or better than most 4 irons, especially height-wise. Any "blade" fears assuaged, I ended up getting a set of mint 3-PW MP-33 heads on eBay for a song while I decided on the right shaft. When I finish building, I'll have spent less than ordering a new set of MP-67s from Mizuno. But rest assured both are fantastic heads. So that's that.

 

More importantly, with regards to the shafts: I read somewhere here recently an apt description of the differences between the 1050 and 1150, comparing them to rifles and dynamic golds. If you like the balance/feel of a rifle (more weight in the hands), go with 1150. If you like the balance/feel of a dynamic gold (more weight towards the head), go 1050. As many have said, the 1150 plays pretty true to flex and is a touch heavier than 1050. The 1050 plays slightly softer to flex, maybe a 1/3 - 1/2 flex. As it relates to height, I, like you, have never been a very high-ball hitter so liked both for the ability to get it up there when needed. I saw a slight difference with the 1050 being a touch higher, but I could launch moon balls with either and hit knock downs with either. They are really the best shafts I've ever hit in terms of both feel and playability. A "forgiving" shaft is vastly underrated IMO. I play 1/2" over length, so I've never been comfortable with DG due to its weight. My tempo has to be perfect with DG to get the most out of them. Played rifles for a while to get weight down, but didn't like the balance. So I decided on the Nippon 1050 and the only thing left was to determine flex. The stiff felt maybe a little too soft, so I got an X to try for comparison. Mind you, I've never even considered an X before, but I've recently settled on 1050 X soft-stepped once and all I need to do now is build them all. FYI, the first test clubs somebody else built and the recent X flex installation I built and spining and doing Joe Kwok's "dowel" treatment were excellent upgrades to performance and feel, respectively.

 

Good luck with your search. While mine's been time consuming, it's been a lot of fun and at the end of the day, I'll have a set of custom fit sticks that I know are perfect for me because I put them through the paces before I bit the bullet. I also learned how to build clubs along the way, a great and life-long bonus! I'd be happy to answer any questions you have beyond all that. Thanks for reading.

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MKGolfer,

 

The dowel treatment I mentioned is inserting a 1.5" wooden dowel near the tip of the shaft. I left room for tip weights per Joe's guidelines, so basically, the top of the hosel bisects the dowel's location in the shaft when it's all put together if that makes sense.

 

The wooden dowel is just a section of hardwood dowel you can buy at any home depot, lowe's, etc. 5/16" diameter worked perfectly in .355 taper tip shaft.

 

The purpose is strictly for feel, and I'm a believer after doing it. It basically works as a vibration dampener and makes the strike feel a little more "solid". It's a small difference, but it's noticeable and I like the feel. It's not a muted feel though, maybe it "clarifies" the feedback is the best way to describe.

 

Do a search for "dowel" and it'll turn up a bunch of posts. I think Joe also goes into detail in his blueprinting irons post that stays at the top of this section.

 

I know Titleist did this to at least the 681 model. Interesting tidbit - a while back I hit a used set of 681s at a golfsmith and couldn't get over how solid and great they felt. To the point where I later started hunting a set to no avail. I hadn't read about the dowel thing at that point, but after putting it into this test club, that same feel I got from the 681 came back to me! Gotta love the Golfwrx!

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