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Soft-Stepped Swingweights are off


glc3344

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So i soft-stepped my irons and now im re-swingweighting all of them back to their original d4, but almost all of them are going to require at least 6-12 grams of weight adjustment. I know your not supposed to put more than like 10grams in the club cause it will move the sweet spot roughly 1/8". what do you guys do? Drop the swingweight to D2? Or put tip wieghts in and then finish with lead tape? Im kinda confused.

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Something's gone awry there.

 

All else being equal, you shouldn't be seeing that much of a change simply by soft stepping the shafts.

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:good:

Nike Ignite 410 10.5° Grafalloy Blue X

Nike T60 15° Fujikura Speeder 757 X

Titleist 913F 19° Mitsubishi Diamana BB 83X or Titleist 712U 2-iron 19° KBS Tour S

Titleist 712U 3-iron 22° KBS Tour S

Titleist 681 4-iron to 9-iron KBS Tour S

Titleist SM5 48.08F Raw 49° KBS Tour S

Titleist SM5 56.10M Raw 56° KBS Tour S

Ping Eye 2 Gorge L Wedge 60° KBS Tour S  &  Ping Anser 2

 

 

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i figured it out...rather than predicting what i need to add, dry fitting works slightly better!

 

Speaking of dry fitting. I always have trouble with this calculating for epoxy and grip tape I'm off alot of the time. How do you do it?

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Some people use a split grip to help with swingweighting, but i remember seeing a video of inside the nike tour van and they just swingweighted the club without a grip. They then stated the club would roughly be 10 swingweight points less or a full letter lighter when the grip was installed. He said not to worry too much about the tape as it only causes a subtle change and cant be felt since the weight is near the hands. I also know people who install all the grips and ferrules on each shaft and then dry fit the heads on and see how much weight needs to be added back either through hosel or tip weight. To each their own i guess as long as you achieve your target swing weight.

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For the epoxy, I use the weight of .4 grams, that comes from weighing the dryfit and the finished club, so thats about a little less than 1/2 point.

The grip is an interesting subject (to me anyway, I'm easily entertained), I have a split grip that weighs about 48 grams. For a wood I'll weigh the grip I'm gonna use along with the tape (backing removed), then I'll add some tape to the split grip to get it to the correct weight to use on the dryfit.

On a set of irons, where the grips will have a variance of weight, I weigh all the grips, then divide to get an average, throw out any that are way off, use them for the woods, establish a mark on my bench for the length of tape I'll need (depending if I'm gonna seal up the end or not) weigh the tape with the backing removed add that weight to the average grip weight, then add weight to the split grip to get it to that weight, then use the split grip to dryfit each iron to the correct weight.

I don't build to individual grip weights in a set of irons because in the future I don't want them to get re-gripped and the weights be way off.

Couple other things on grips in a set, I mark the length I want to install to less 1/8" on the shaft, then I go past the mark 1/8", that way all my grips have the same installed length. Some folks go past that and use calipers to get the same measurement at points along the grip.

It takes so much longer to explain it than to do it, and its just as easy to do it methodically as randomly, its all about consistent procedures that are comfortable to you.

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