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MaX whats in the bag.....


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updated 5-16-09
Adams Speedline 9.5 with whiteboard 73x will add pics one day...

Nike ignite T60 15* 73x blueboard...

909h 17* tour issue with GD proto ut-95x

Gauge Design GA-M1 tour irons... Simply beautiful...

Gauge Design wedges.. carbon finish..

All irons and wedges TT DG S400 with new decade grips..

Scotty studio select... love it more than you know....

All wrapped up in a Sun Mountain four 5 or titleist staff bag.

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Very nice. I like those Guage irons. The all black top to the Nike is very Stealth. Did you do that yourself? Its hard to tell from the pic but it all looks black on top, even the powerbow. Is it?

 

Nice bag,

Ryan

rymail00 2018 WITB [i][b] [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1605910-rymail00-2018-witb-pic-heavy/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...witb-pic-heavy/[/url][/b][/i]

[size=3]TM M1 430 8.5* Tour Issue w/ Tensei CK Pro White 70s (with high gloss SLDR finish from Continental Golf)
Titleist 917 F3 15* D+ 80s
Titleist 915H 21* D+ 90s
Titleist 915H 24* D+ 90s
Titleist AP2 718, 5-50* Steelfiber i95s
Scratch TD DW 54* 58* KBS HiRev
Odyssey Metal X Milled 330M (current gamer) [/size]
[size=3]Ping Scottsdale TR B60[/size]
[size=3]TP Mills Heritage 349g [/size]
[size=3]Byron Morgan 006 355g [/size]
[size=3]Byron Morgan Makers Proof #4/5 solid copper [/size]
[size=3]C&L CL1 368g[/size]
Scotty Cameron Newport Studio Style

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Could we get some more photos of the Gauge irons?

 

I haven't seen that model before. Are they the Japanese ones?? What year were they made??

 

You have a beautiful set sir.

+1

the entire top of the nike is painted and yes I did it my self. Also will get some more pics of the irons up later YES they are the Japanese ones and are from last year...

 

And thank you I love them..

 

 

Yes more pics would be awesome! Also if you can get a pic of that driver head again maybe w/ less glare that would be much appreciated.

 

Was it hard to paint? I would like to do it to my RapV2.

rymail00 2018 WITB [i][b] [url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1605910-rymail00-2018-witb-pic-heavy/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...witb-pic-heavy/[/url][/b][/i]

[size=3]TM M1 430 8.5* Tour Issue w/ Tensei CK Pro White 70s (with high gloss SLDR finish from Continental Golf)
Titleist 917 F3 15* D+ 80s
Titleist 915H 21* D+ 90s
Titleist 915H 24* D+ 90s
Titleist AP2 718, 5-50* Steelfiber i95s
Scratch TD DW 54* 58* KBS HiRev
Odyssey Metal X Milled 330M (current gamer) [/size]
[size=3]Ping Scottsdale TR B60[/size]
[size=3]TP Mills Heritage 349g [/size]
[size=3]Byron Morgan 006 355g [/size]
[size=3]Byron Morgan Makers Proof #4/5 solid copper [/size]
[size=3]C&L CL1 368g[/size]
Scotty Cameron Newport Studio Style

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To paint it I first wet sanded with thousand grit, wipe real good with alcohol, then tape off what doesn't get painted, wipe again with alcolhol to get the finger prints (while doing this make sure to push the tape down one last time with the rag so the paint doesn't bleed). Then put on about 2 thin coats of your favorite color followed by 2 wet coats. Then apply minimum of 2 coats of clear (satin or gloss your choice). Pull tape then beat balls.... hahaha... I've been doin this to my clubs since I was a little guy, dad taught me and it stuck...

 

 

Oh and thank you all for this compliments..

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To paint it I first wet sanded with thousand grit, wipe real good with alcohol, then tape off what doesn't get painted, wipe again with alcolhol to get the finger prints (while doing this make sure to push the tape down one last time with the rag so the paint doesn't bleed). Then put on about 2 thin coats of your favorite color followed by 2 wet coats. Then apply minimum of 2 coats of clear (satin or gloss your choice).

Very cool, thanks for the info. I must admit, I'm not particularly familiar with the painting process, so I do have a few questions. First, when you say alcohol do you mean just plain rubbing alcohol? Also, what brand/color paint do you use for the undercoats and clearcoats? Do you have to wait after each coat to dry before painting (and what is the difference between a thin coat and a wet coat?) I know these are probably very stupid questions, but I really am clueless about the majority of the process and would like to know as much as I can before trying it on my clubs. Thanks

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To paint it I first wet sanded with thousand grit, wipe real good with alcohol, then tape off what doesn't get painted, wipe again with alcolhol to get the finger prints (while doing this make sure to push the tape down one last time with the rag so the paint doesn't bleed). Then put on about 2 thin coats of your favorite color followed by 2 wet coats. Then apply minimum of 2 coats of clear (satin or gloss your choice).

Very cool, thanks for the info. I must admit, I'm not particularly familiar with the painting process, so I do have a few questions. First, when you say alcohol do you mean just plain rubbing alcohol? Also, what brand/color paint do you use for the undercoats and clearcoats? Do you have to wait after each coat to dry before painting (and what is the difference between a thin coat and a wet coat?) I know these are probably very stupid questions, but I really am clueless about the majority of the process and would like to know as much as I can before trying it on my clubs. Thanks

 

Rubbing alcoholc will work fine. I use krylon from wlamart, flat black and matte clear, works for me. You should wait about ten minutes between coats when applying letting the color or base coat try completely before you apply clear, once dry light rub with alcohol then apply clear. A thin coat is more of a mist type coat to help with adhesion when you go to apply the wet coat which will be a thick coat, this is the hard for the first time as they tend to run if you don't practice. Also start the spray can before you pass over the head so it doesn't splater on the head causing bubbles in the finish.. If you don't want to do the wet coats all is well just do about six or more coats of the mist coat to get good coverage. I have also found the krylon to be very durable...

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