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Modern steel shaft for a persimmon driver??


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Advice please chaps!
Hello everyone,
Now I like to think of myself as a purist most of the time (except for re-gripping and using a fairly modern ball) with my classic clubs. However I would like to experiment. I have a Mac TA ss2 (1959) driver coming and would really like to put a 'modern' steel shaft in. Now I know this topic is a little old hat but other topics don't seem to say whether it is actually possible with the modern shafts. Bascially would the bore on the hosel have to be widened or is there a modern steel shaft out there that would slot into a Mac persimmon from the later 50's?
Thanks for your help once again!
Christian
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I have had several of my former (and a current) MacGregor classic drivers shafted with Dynamic Gold shafts. My 945TW has a S300 in it. When I played 3-4 times a week in the early 90s, I had DG X100 shafts in my Cleveland DG43 gamer (I used to think it was a RC75 but it was not) and my MacGregor TPT Special. Dynamic Gold shafts will work.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Mizuno Pro 223 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / SW: Mizuno T-22, 52° (bent to 50°)/ 56° (bent to 54°), True Temper S400

LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

Putter:  Byron Morgan Epic Day custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips:  BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

 

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ChristianMc:

I think you will probably have to widen the bore a bit (not a big deal) to put a modern steel shaft in your 1959 MacGregor woods. The parallel tip wood shafts of today basically did not exist until the early 1970s (.335). I know you could still buy tapered tip wood shafts (both .277 & .294) until at least 1995, although they were fading fast even then.

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[quote name='Bella Woods' date='05 February 2010 - 04:22 PM' timestamp='1265415749' post='2230505']
ChristianMc:

I think you will probably have to widen the bore a bit (not a big deal) to put a modern steel shaft in your 1959 MacGregor woods. The parallel tip wood shafts of today basically did not exist until the early 1970s (.335). I know you could still buy tapered tip wood shafts (both .277 & .294) until at least 1995, although they were fading fast even then.
[/quote]


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Christian:

Does your MacGregor driver have a bore through shaft? Graphite shafts in my experience work fine in old drivers,
but I have only put them in blind bores.

Also, the extra one inch or so will stiffen the shaft flex by about one half a flex I have been told (by Fujikura).
Re: stiff shaft will become stiff to extra stiff but length of club will affect this too.

I guess it would be ok with a bore through...

Only one way to find out.

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[quote name='ChristianMc' date='06 February 2010 - 09:17 AM' timestamp='1265465824' post='2231553']
bella Woods - thankd very much for your replies;
Here is a pic of the sole of the driver - your thoughts as to 'bore through' - sorry I am not that in the know??
[/quote]

Christian:

A bore through is simply a shaft that goes all the way through the club head to the bottom
(you can see it on the bottom of the club). Your MacGregor is a bore through from your picture post.

A blind bore stops at some point short of the bottom of the club (usually about 1/2 inch short of the
bottom of the club).

I was just wondering about the wear and tear on a graphite shaft with a bore through, but then again
some of the modern clubs have graphite bore through shafts (Callaway).

One other thing, is the shaft you are contemplating buying a pull out from a modern club? Or an unused (new)
shaft? Since you will be going down in the club an extra inch, it could make a difference if it has been
cut to length from the butt end. Re: The club would be one inch shorter in length when
installed in your club, which could or could not be a problem.

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